As above - has anyone been able to change the bushes (or ideally the whole front anti-roll bar) without removing the subframe? I'll have the hubs / struts / arms off if that makes it any easier.
It's been a while but from memory, when I fitted a new engine I still had to drop the subframe to fit them with the engine out. I remember thinking it was a massive pain in the arse and almost didn't bother. Sent from my HTC Desire EYE using Tapatalk
Gotta love Renault - in the middle of changing my thermostat which involves removing the battery, battery tray, arch liner and passenger wheel - the manual says you even need to remove the windscreen wipers!
Ha, yeah when I dropped mine off at Mark Black's yesterday, within a nano second they were removing the wipers.Wondered what that was all about. Explains why I got the quote for fitting then - sounds like a 2/3 hr job to polybush the arms. Might as well get the ARB done too while it's all off. Anything else worth doing to save labour?! Found out yesterday that the top mounts do F all after forking out £125 for a new set! Renault design at it's finest.
you don't have to drop the subframe to do the arms - neither do you have to mess with the steering system -but you have to do both for the ARB. That's why I've not done it!
CBA with that then. Arms are just 3 bolts to drop then? Maybe that was supplied and fitted then. Can't remember, will ask.
It took me a lot longer to the arms than 2 or 3 bolts, but I'm slow. I asked for help here - http://rsmegane.com/threads/lower-arm-removal.12335/ Basically remove ball joint from hub (which will require removing the brake disc and therefore caliper). Remove Anti Rotation Link (in my case - cut off with angle grinder and add to list of bits to replace) Remove Radiator Cross Member (remove undertray, then four bolts, support from above to lower it only as much as you need) Remove the two bolts securing each bush to the subframe Pull free.
Never straight forward is it. Guess that's the fitting price then. £140 for the bushes themselves on top? What issues did you have with the poly though? I'm not going for caster increase or owt like that.
I didn't have any problems - I think another member did but that was probably with the castor adjustable ones.
Ah yes getting mixed up with another thread. Thanks for the replies bud. Booked in to get my wishbone bushes done you see as mine are knackered, trying to suss out how much it'll cost Are they ok and not mega harsh? My civic is all done and to be fair its how it should be! Not harsh but definitely firm
I changed a lot at the same time, and had only driven the car for 60 miles before hand, so I can't really say unfortunately.
Ah. Well had mine 3 weeks. New oem mounts massive improvement from worn ones. Powerflex inserts done yesterday and more solid again. Will see what new poly bushes are like next month.
I'm changing all front end bushes top joints, drop links , wishbones, track rod ends and arb bushes, pads, discs, braided hoses and dot 4 in the next 2 weeks. I'll let you know if I'm going bankrupt or not in due course. Let's hope it's worth it!!!
I did replace the bushes in the end, but although someone said it's possible I can't see how it is without removing it - or at least dropping it enough that removing it is no extra work!
Interesting photo, I was thinking of changing the front anti roll bar recently until I was told you have to drop the front sub frame out. Out of interest how long would you say it takes to drop the sub frame out change the anti roll bar then put it back on the car?
Omg that looks painful, but necessary for me. Ill put powerflex bushes in to prolong the life. Thanks for the reference pic.
If you do everything on your list but skip the ARB bushes it'll be a lot easier... This is a MK2, not a MK3. It took me 14 hours on my drive with axle stands, but I'm very very slow. It took Mark Black about an hour or two to remove the whole subframe on my car when I took it to him. Bear in mind there are also bushes on the subframe itself that you can replace (they aren't expensive), but even with it removed without a press you have no chance.
How far in are you already? I mean if you've got the lower arms and hubs off already, it's really not much bother to drop the subframe from there. All you have to do is release the steering column and undo about 6 bolts.
Hi. I've given the job to a local mechanic. He is doing the lot for me for a favour, oh, and £250 which I think is very fair as it includes changing the discs, pads and lines for me, as well as all the replacement suspension parts. Should handle as it was made to by the time it comes back. Then for the power tuning mods!!
Fair enough! Have you got all the parts as I’m just about to remove some pretty new brake and suspension parts if you need anything, drop me a pm. Cheers
I'm fairly sure I have everything but as soon as it's all layed out I'll let you know if I have missed anything. 1 item still on the shopping list is some Brembo front calipers.
Got a set fully refurbed brembos, 800 miles on them. I'm upgrading the brakes now, have a couple of sets of sets of pads too and 800 mile old brembo discs.
Link to my cars thread Replaced all the front bushes myself with help from a friend. We had access to a lift which really helps a lot so you can unbolt just about everything par 2 bolts and then lower whole car until sub sits on a little table. Remove remaining two bolts and lift the car up with sub staying nicely on the table. We had to access to a press so we used a bench vice to press some out and all of them in. The stubborn ones were hit out with a pipe and big ass hammer. You can hit them out as long as you press new ones in and not hit them in. A bench vice is more than sufficient to press in the bushes as long as it's big enough and you have some "cups" to put onto when pressing them in with the vice. Total time for ARB bushes, both control arms bushes(front and rear), new ball joints (also pressed in with bench vice), rack ends (when sub is off might as well do these if a bit worn), tie rods and the odd stubborn bolt was 8 hours. The removal is quite quick if no bolts are rusted etc but the installation process is a bit time consuming for the first time learning all those little tricks. Anyone wanting to learn more of their car or on tighter budget, sure do it. If you have $ and not too much worried how something goes together as long as it works. Leave it. Difficulty scale is probably around a 5/10 so intermediate skills and tools required. I love working on my cab and learning new things so properly enjoyed it! Good luck to those who still attempt this.
Spot on mate. It’s good to get in there and see how it all works, once you get in, you just as well go all the way and do the lot, leave nothing to chance. It’s what I did with mine but on the drive, no lift present
Ag jeez how did I miss it's you mate! We chatted quit a bit on the Suspension/subframe part thread haha. I have much respect for you doing that on the driveway Do most things on the driveway myself just had the option to use lift for that job was a god sent! Side note, those subframe bushes still good after some driving? Here is my track sheet after doing all the bushes (front and rear beam too) except subframe bushes plus the suspension stuffies:
Haha, yes pal, shared some good information thank you . Yeah all good with the car so far, done 2 Trackdays last month and all good. I’m going to upgrade the Calipers and go coilovers now as it’s going to be a pure track car, which wasn’t the original plan! Getting a 2nd hand rear beam to refurb and polybush whilst replacing the arb bush and bracket. Lots to do still but was great fun on track as is!!
Oh and all bushes good. The subframe ones you recommended, Black series anti roll bar, engine and gearbox inserts and evol engineering dog bones top and bottom. Everything is tight as fuck but vibrates to hell up to 2.5krpm, after that it’s actually alright!
You should have gone for the yellow ones, stiffens it up but doesn't transfer the vibrations, had yellow ones in my mk2 for 3+ years with no problems
