R26 RS250 engine conversion

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Chawkie, Oct 23, 2020.

  1. I'm about to embark on the above voyage following expected ringland failure on my R26 engine.

    I've seen a few threads on this conversion and some cars advertised for sale with the swap done but I'm interested in seeing if there is any additional advice or change in approach since these initial swaps as they were done back in 2016/2017!

    Two specific areas I'm doing research on is the fuel pressure/pump set up and also the throttle body and if advice or tips on how to use the RS250 set up has changed!

    Limited specialists in this area here in Ireland so all advice or direction to additional reading greatly appreciated
     
  2. Cheers, yes have read his thread so if there are any recent learnings or different approaches not documented there is love to read it.

    Also, there are 2 r26s that sold on the R26 Facebook group this year that I'll contact about their tips. One said it ran an RS275 engine with rising rate fuel set up too!
     
  3. If you get a complete engine from a donor car then I imagine the fuel rail etc will be there. I'm sure all you'll need is a different in tank fuel pump and a relief valve?
     
  4. Have the full engine on the way. What I'm a little unsure on is that if I can use an RS250 fuel pump if that works. The RS250 runs a rising rate system but the R26 runs constant pressure. I'll be honest, I still need to understand this better.

    One thing I read was that fitting the RS250 pump didn't seem to fit.
     
  5. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Nothing has really changed on a swap, you need the 250 fuel rail, then fit a DW65c pump into the fuel tank unit, but you will need a 5bar regulator to replace the 3.5 on fitted(it also needs a bit of modifying).

    As for the throttle body, use the R26 one, you will need to make an adapter plate but it isn't a big deal.

    You also need to use your original wiring loom, this will reduce any problems with the connections into the fuse box, a R26 and 250 looms are so different, you won't get the VVT to work because the ECU isn't setup for that.
    But you will need to keep your sensors from your old engine, saying that you need to keep the 250 map sensors even if your not going to get a big map upgrade, R26 map sensors are good for 1.7bar, 250 map sensors are good for 2.5bar.
     
  6. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Don't bother with the 250 pump, it won't fit.

    AS said above, you just need a 5bar regulator and a dw65c pump, the pump is almost a straight swap, you need to trim a very small piece of plastic off of the R26 fuel housing.
     
  7. Brilliant info on the DW pump info and regulator.

    Yes, had seen that about the throttle body adaptors. I've also seen someone reference redrilling the 225 TB as an option!
     
  8. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Yes you can drill the 225/R26 manifold but why if you have the 250 one fitted, the 250 manifold has a bigger bore not that it makes any difference :laughing::laughing:
     
  9. I wonder if the bigger bore intake manifold would be beneficial for a big turbo build? I see the 225 is tiny really!
     
  10. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Apparently the 225/R26 throttle body is good for 500hp so i doubt its an issue for that manifold either
     
  11. Thanks lads.

    I'm waiting on the engine so don't have it in front of me to compare.

    On the FPR, any pointers to the specific one you used? When you say modified, is that in relation to the vacuum reference from the inlet manifold needs to be blocked and therefore will run a "constant" 5bar and not a rising rate?
     
  12. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

  13. Great, thanks Ian.

    On the engine mounts, I assume it's all R26 mounts that are used once you make the adjustment to the can cover.

    Do you still have this car as a matter of interest? Still alive?
     
  14. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    The top engine cover that covers the cambelt on the R26 has to be used, then you use the the original engine mount, think i had to drill and tap a vertical hole at the front of the cover to add an extra bolt for security.

    You can still use the original dog bone mounts, i just added yellow powerflex inserts.

    I don't have the car anymore, after the second hybrid went bang i put the car back to almost standard and sold it, then sold all of the parts that came off (mistake :anguished:) I think its still going.
     
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  15. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    if you need any other information i will try and help
     
    Chawkie likes this.
  16. Ian, how did you have the throttle body adaptor done up? Do you have drawings/templates that might save me starting from scratch.

    I had thought about 3d printing it but the printer I have access to wouldn't be good enough for this purpose. I've a mate with a CNC machine so he'll make one (and design it) but if I can save him hassle, all the better.
     
  17. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I'm not that good with anything like a 3d printer, i just used a piece of 8mm thick aluminium and shaped it, i used one of the holes in the 225/R26 throttle body, drilled and tapped the others, didn't look pretty but worked.
     
    Chawkie likes this.
  18. I've ruled out the 3D printed idea, the printer I have access to does plastic bit it would not be suitable for heat, oil etc... Aluminium it is.

    Another question for you.

    My R26R clutch and TTV flywheel kit arrived so I'm ready to attack the project over the Christmas break but for one issue. Mapping once running.

    Travel to UK with quarantine periods etc is not a runner. I've 2 mappers in Ireland I trust to do it but Trying to get a commitment from them and a date is like trying to draw blood from a stone!

    I can't have the car decommissioned for a massive lenght of time so. How safely will the standard R26 ecu run the RS250 engine before mapping. Can I safely drove is handy?

    I'm working from home and my car currently does about 40 miles a week and that's not going to change but I can't be without an option of a car as I live in the sticks!
     
  19. I ran the 250 Throttle body, without any problems on my 250 engine Clio, but as Ian has said 225 one is easier, with less problems.
     
  20. Good to get another vote for the 250 TB.

    How did you work the wiring plug for it. Have you it documented somewhere I can read?

    I'm going to start with the 225 TB and try to get the 250 one to work as a second step
     
  21. Car is now sold, running my sons car now. Stick with the 225 one, less hassle.
     
  22. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    It will all depend on what you have done to it, don't put the 630 injectors in, if you are running a hybrid turbo then just don't boot it, if you drive it steady you should be okay.

    You might get the spanner light come on (mine didn't) but it should still drive okay.

    As for the throttle body fit that, there good for 500hp and the ecu will like it, i did fit a 250 one to mine but every so often it would just stop working, had to stop turn the engine off and then on again to reset it, bit of an inconvenience when your on the motorway.
    So much easier to make an adapter.
     
  23. Cheers,

    I'll be running standard 250 turbo and injectors so I reckon it'll be fine to drive around and check for other issues, I'm.just struggling to see when I'll actually get it mapped between mappers not coming back to me plus the Covid restrictions meaning I technically might not be able to cross county bounds to get to some of them!
     
  24. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    It might be worth swapping them to the 225/R26 injectors as im sure the 250 injectors are bigger as in flow more, not as bad as 630's but they will over fuel
     
    Chawkie likes this.
  25. Hi @ianplymouth ,

    Hope you can help me here. I bought the FPR in the link above and now have the fuel pump out. It seems there is more differences that just the head, the body of the new one is much bigger on the new one and won't fit in the housing. The new one is 5mm bigger.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. Could my fuel pump housing be different (2006 R26) or might the new part be different
     
  27. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Hi Chawkie
    Yes i know there is a problem, i didn't realise this was a problem till i took my fuel unit out, the only experience i had was with the 225 i did a good few years ago.

    I have bought a 225 phase one fuel tank unit, i didn't pay a lot for it as there are a few being stripped, but i would get in quick as soon they will start becoming a must have item like the 250 fuel rails.

    I am machining one for someone else, i can do one for you if you want.

    There is another way around this, but its expensive, buy a 250/265/275 fuel unit as the FPR is the same size but 5.5 bar, saw that when i fitted the better fuel pump.
     
  28. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I am not sure if the 225 phase 2 unit is the same as the phase one unit, but i know the R26 is different.
     
  29. I was thinking this may be the issue alright!!

    So phase1 pump housing. All else swaps over? Have the DW fuel pump and that fits the R26 set up perfectly

    On the reg, the new one the fitting for what I assume is a vacuum reference in normal application. Did you just leave this as it, cut it off or what?

    Be great to take a pic of yours all fitted up once done. Picture paint a thousand words.

    Thanks for the offer on the machining, I'm based in Ireland so bit more complicated these days to post it given Brexit and customs declarations.
     
  30. Did I read somewhere that a phase 1 fuel pump housing is the same, regardless of it being a 225?
     
  31. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Yes the phase one unit is the same except for that relief valve, i have fitted a DW65c pump to my phase 1 unit already its so easy on these.

    The Pipe can be left or broken off, it doesn't matter as long as its not blocked.
    I think if you brake it off it does that quite easy.

    I am going to try and sort the FPR valves out this weekend and i will get some pics for you early next week.

    Ahh okay, didn't realise you were out there, the dimeter you need to get the nib down too is 7.4 mm, you will also need keep the "O" ring from the old relief valve.
     
  32. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member


    I bought one of them, it came up as the same part number, but its different.
    the body is smaller in diameter, so that the reservoir wont hold as much fuel, its some kind of swirl pot design to aid in the corners.
    Mine was an aftermarket one and was £48 new delivered.
     
  33. Thanks mate.

    Yes, being in Ireland has real disadvantages when it comes to Renault sport stuff. I'm gonna have to look on the UK for a phase 1 pump. Ash Gourlay prob the easiest option!
     
  34. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Thats where mine came from :laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
  35. LOL...

    Reading Dan Barnes thread, it seems he did no fuel pump upgrades, just fiddled with the FPR at the rail and still got great power.

    https://rsmegane.com/threads/megane-r26-getting-a-250-engine-turbo.13585/

    I'm wondering is there much benefit to swapping out the fuel pump housing for the relief valve mod?

    What are your thoughts?
     
  36. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    It all depends on what you want in the end, my 265 toped out on the standard pump at a fraction under 400hp, i don't think the 225/R26 pump is quite that good, but i am unsure of there limit.

    Also the pumps are getting old now, i changed the 225 one as a mater of course as i had the unit out to do the valve as i wanted to run the rising rate fuel system and it seemed silly not to fit a new pump at the same time.

    The R26 is going to have the 250 fuel setup, just in case another big turbo turns up

    After speaking to Chris at EFI, with what i have fitted to mine now, 265 turbo, 250 injectors and fuel rail, 250 map sensors and the rising rate fuel system, he is saying we will be looking at 340hp, that i think i will be happy with (for a while) :laughing::laughing:

    I would get a Phase 1 fuel unit just in case, while you can at a reasonable price, i think its going to be a cheaper option than going for a swirl pot with a return setup, just my opinion.
     

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