URGENT INFO REQUIRED: RS250 turbo and Forge Actuator . . .

My advice is to leave the standard 250 turbo actuator on. The actuator is ecu controlled so shouldn't need adjusting that's what Paul told me

 

Set it so the rod just hooks on and off the pin on the turbo easily then screw the rod in a turn so you have to pull it to hook it on the pin and thats the preload set.

 

I set mine so the end of the whole on the rod is directly above the centre of the wastegate pin. Only needs a bit of preload,the rest is controlled be the ecu.

 

Mine has the green spring. Its a lot stronger than the standard actuator so don't see a problem.

 

use standard actuator from 250, better than forge.use standard recirc.We are runing standard actuator and recirc on hybrid turbo with 1.75 bar@5500 rpm and more is posible.So tere is no need for forge item.

 

No its not. I've got a standard 250 actuator and its no where near as strong as the Forge.

 

if you don't belive me ask Paul@rstuning.Oem actuator on stock 250 turbo is good for 1.8 bar.Are you going to run abowe 1.8 bar?why bother with forge actuator...and just for the reference I know two cases that the membrane broke in this forge actuators.

 

Stock 250 may well be good enough but the one I've got is not as good as the forge and definitely not better or I would of fitted it and sold the forge.

You know of two out of how many forge have sold, I'll take my chances.

 

Just tested my 250 actuator and it starts to open at just under 5psi and 3/4 open at 8psi.

Not that good then is it.

You might be happy running 1.8 bar with it but I wouldn't.

 

You wont need to run 1.8 bar with a 250 turbo on a meg 225/f1/r26 to make rod bending power.

 

The amount of items being sold is not proportional to quality or how useful they are.

 

Dont have a forge recirc. Wish I did instead mine has an hks Bov.

 

How useful is a actuator that can creep open at 5psi?

I would have the forge over a 250 actuator every time.

 

Nothing wrong with the quality.

 

I have been told my many tuners over the years that you shouldn't really go above double the spring opening psi. Obviously you can and people do but is it the best option?

 

Mine seems ok with the power I am doing

 

I never said there was ! was just saying cos you sold a shit load doesnt means its a good item.

See MFI furniture

 

Got mine cheap so it was a bargain.

My standard 225 one was weaker than my piss.

What boost pressure are you running Andy?

 

Yes but could it be better.Ive seen a lot of tuners that will simply wind the standard actautor rod that far in to stop creep and get the desired boost level that the wastegate can barely open.

Also seen some shocking boost graphs because of this method also.

Not saying yours is like that but thats why I prefer to change to a stronger one.

 

My curves are beautiful and smooth. The power delivery is smooth. I cannot want for anything more TBH.

I also rate what RST do , how they do it and trust them with my car.

 

I've never been there so will hold my judgement until end of the month,where I expect I will be as happy as you,maybe a little happier cos I have the forge actuator.

 

Going to be gutting for you though as you will have less power.

 

Hope not. If i do I will blame the map.:eek:

 

Map is fine , mine mad good power.

It will be the guy that fitted the forge valves problem ..

 

To be honest as long it makes 300 I'll be happy. Any more is a bonus.

 

Numbers are pub bragging rights really. Thats all.

As long as you are happy with the car ( I am mine ) I guess thats all that should matter.

 

The test you have done doesn't tell you any thing about how much boost it will hold as the actuator is controled via N75 valve and N75 valve is controled via ECU.At full throtlle valve is open and bleeading boost away of the actuator.
There is also a side effect of harder spring in actuator....harder to control boost at part throttle as the ECU can't open actuator soon enough.
And 1.8 bar can be done witout touching the factory preload (talking about meg 250 and 250 turbo)

 

How does it tell me nothing?

The spring alone cant hold back more than 5 psi before opening fact.

Why would the ecu want to open the wastegate at part throttle?

 

I've tried on my 250 (with Fastchip Stage 1 mapping) both the standard actuator and the Forge with all the different springs and different preloads. I then logged them using my RSTuner box to look at the boost pressure that is measured at the turbo outlet, and the intake manifold pressure.

Concluding was that there is absolutely no reason to run the Forge actuator with any other spring than the two weakest ones with no preload at all. There were several things that happened:

1) Using more preload and/or stronger springs in the Forge actuator resulted in boost spikes a the turbo outlet (not intake manifold, I'll come to that later, point 4)
2) A stiffer actuator with more preload didn't allow for finegrained boost adjustments by the ECU anymore
3) Using the stiffer blue and red springs in the Forge actuator resulted in loss of boost pressure overall, due to the issue at point 2).
4) The RS250 has a much more sophisticated boost regulation system than the 225RS! Where I could easily create more boost pressure in the intake manifold on my Megane 2 RS by fitting the Forge actuator with slightly stronger springs, this does not work for the RS250. The RS250 uses, additionally, the throttle valve to control the boost pressure in the intake manifold whereas the 225RS does not. Running the strongest spring on the Forge actuator resulted in a higher boost pressure at the turbo outlet, but it would just close down the throttle valve a lot more to compensate for the added pressure before the intake manifold.

As such, I conclude there is absolutely no reason the run the Forge actuator other than replacing a bad stock one, or you like needless bling under the hood. Keep the stock actuator to allow your ECU to control the boost much better, or run weak springs in the Forge one so mimic the stock actuator's spring force.

 

This is one of the funniest things ive read in a long time. The ecu doesn't use clockwork you know its very fast at making calculations.

 

Look's like you don't know how the system works.
You have a wrong perspective...I'm trying to help not arguing with you. Have a long back ground in tuning meganes to I know a thing or two!
Have fun!

 

I never said put the strongest spring in the Forge actuator. Mine has the weakest one I think.

 

TymenJ you do know we are talking about a mk2 just with the turbo/actuator from a mk3?

What was your findings on response/lag times with these different actuators/springs?

 

Do you still have the green spring?

It may overboost now as the yellow spring is rated 9-15psi but will be fine once its mapped.

 

Richmeg is yours mapped now?

 

I have standard on my 250 turbo equipped r26