Cheers. If you do spray your handles get a set of second hand genuine ones they fit alot better Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
sprayed the door badges again, before they were red writing with a anthracite background New badges by matt eaton, on Flickr Side by matt eaton, on Flickr and hopefully i should get my steering wheel soon from snappy
got my steering back and handbrake, fitted the steering wheel last week but only just fitted the handbrake today as i cross threaded the handbrake cable tension bolt. i also put new cruise control button on the steering wheel as the old ones wouldn't decrease the speed and kept coming up 'check cruise control' Cruise control buttons by matt eaton, on Flickr Retrimmed steering wheel by matt eaton, on Flickr got a new trim for the wheel and painted to match the rest of trim and bought a cover for it to protect it from sunlight (alcantara part) Steering wheel cover by matt eaton, on Flickr Wheel cover by matt eaton, on Flickr with the handbrake ive cleaned it up and sprayed it silver and also resprayed the plastic trim on it Handbrake retrimmed by matt eaton, on Flickr Handbrake retrimmed by matt eaton, on Flickr Handbrake retrimmed by matt eaton, on Flickr Handbrake by matt eaton, on Flickr and then lastly i removed the recaro's to give them a proper clean and condition the leather and hoovered underneath Cleaned recaro by matt eaton, on Flickr
i've just read your thread..what a machine!!even though i have a boosted clio i still find this thread very inspirational..sorry about your troubles with your engine but hey ho..its forged now and pulling like a train.. i've been looking at different intercoolers for my clio..i have a forge like you but some of the fins are,lets say a bit worn..any other brands that you would be able to recommend pls??
got it from carparts4less http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/search/205740030 use PAYDAY takes it down to £16 thanks, you clio must be fun to drive, i know people use airtec
Like that steering wheel. I've been wondering how a suede top/bottom would look in my 265. I'm a bit reluctant to go suede on the hand grip area from a wear perspective.
yeah know about airtec..was thinking something a bit less expensive..not keen on paying close to a £500 mark again..a few gyus i know use a mishimoto coolers..they go for about a £200..thought you may know something about them..thanks and enjoy your beast
G'day is the yellow 197 gauge section a copy or taken from a actual Clio‽ I think this looks great btw! I'm not familiar with your other thread you mentioned; if you have more info there or instructions/links‽
No it's not taken from a Clio, I had it made to look like the Clio dials. What other are you on about? I'm not sure? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
finally changed my wheels back to standard, i swapped with kieran off of here. i much prefer the standard ones to the ozf1's. they do need refurbishing though and id want them done in a light anthracite like the wing mirrors but thatll have to wait for now though. cleaned it today so took a couple of pictures DSC_3537 by matt eaton, on Flickr DSC_3539 by matt eaton, on Flickr DSC_3544 by matt eaton, on Flickr DSC_3531 by matt eaton, on Flickr DSC_3541 by matt eaton, on Flickr DSC_3546 by matt eaton, on Flickr and also ive fitted the front/rear/doors bumper decals. ive bought some spacers for the car so the wheels stick out a little further went with pure motorsport ones, 18mm on the rear and 5mm on the front. i need to fiut longer studs on the rear thought so got them as well Longer studs by matt eaton, on Flickr Spacers by matt eaton, on Flickr got a set of genuine centre caps for when i do get the wheel redone Centre caps by matt eaton, on Flickr and something ive been looking at is the fuel system, i dont want a swirl pot or a external pump and aftermarket fuel rails are mega money, i got a mk3 fuel rail, there centre feed so it 'should' help with problems people get with the piston 4 and lack of fuel. dont know what to do with the fpr that the mk3 runs on the rail though MK3 fuel rail by matt eaton, on Flickr New inlet with MK3 fuel rail by matt eaton, on Flickr Injector clips by matt eaton, on Flickr and lastly ive bought a set of MK3 brembo calipers, but not too sure if im going to keep them though, im going to strip them and replace the seals MK3 Brembo calipers by matt eaton, on Flickr Caliper decals by matt eaton, on Flickr
Nice work Matt! This is looking awesome. I personally avoided the Grayston studs because I hadn't really read anything positive about them, the Pure ones have been spot on though (bar my issue with the fronts). Are the MK3 calipers a straight bolt-on?
cheers nick, i had grayston studs on my clio for 3-4 years with no problems and i think ive had them on the meg for a year or maybe more? havent had a problem with them so far. yeay i had the same problem as you with the studs hitting the hub DSC_0119 by matt eaton, on Flickr with the mk3 brakes they need a spacer cause they run bigger discs 340mm iirc and also you need a spigot rings as the mk3 has a bigger centre bore than the mk2 and the discs need drilling as the pcd is different as well but other than that there a direct fit lol
Immaculate as always mate [emoji108][emoji108][emoji108] just need to invest in a stud and nut kit for mine now, will probably opt for the same as yours if you've had no issues [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fair enough mate! How'd you sort it? Planning on just grinding a few threads off the end of mine. My only issue with that was potential corrosion. Ha, direct fit!
Lovely car Matt, and a cracking project! A quick question regarding the spacers. 18mm rear and 5mm front? Is that a common setup used for the standard wheels? I was looking at mine and noticed the wheels could do with a bit of help filling the arches! Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
thanks, not sure what the common spacer size is on the meg. i originally ordered 15mm hubcentric but PMS rung up and said 18mm is the minimum on the meg for hubcentric. ill fit them Thursday and get some pictures
Stunning as usual mate Can't beat standard wheels in my opinion. I had mine done lighter to match the mirrors better, they took the diamonds off the caps and painted the caps with the same paint so it all matched perfectly Ian
fitted the spacers this morning. had to remove the old studs first then clean up the threads removing the studs Removing old studs by matt eaton, on Flickr Studs by matt eaton, on Flickr cleaning up the threads Cleaning thread by matt eaton, on Flickr New studs fitted by matt eaton, on Flickr once i had the new studs on i put the spacer on and couldn't get it to sit flush and realised it was the bearing cap in the way so had to remove that and i fitted it back on the spacer if thats ok? Spacer gap by matt eaton, on Flickr Cap by matt eaton, on Flickr New studs fitted with spacer by matt eaton, on Flickr With spacer by matt eaton, on Flickr No spacer by matt eaton, on Flickr before DSC_3544 by matt eaton, on Flickr after Rear with spacers fitted by matt eaton, on Flickr Rear spacer fitted by matt eaton, on Flickr Front spacers by matt eaton, on Flickr Front with spacers by matt eaton, on Flickr also bought new coils and spark plugs New coils ans spark plugs by matt eaton, on Flickr
That looks fantastic Matt! Spacers and stud conversion for me.nedt month I think! [emoji6] Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
Love this thread, your car looks amazing Matt! I have one small question - how do you get the rear bumper trims out? I've searched but can't find anyone else who has actually done it.
Car looks really good. With regards to the spacers are those the biggest you can go without rubbing anywhere. And do you notice any improvement in handling?
thanks, you just pull the trims out from near the tail pipes and they unclip cheers, with regards to rubbing i suppose it depends how low you car is. the rear i say you could go to 20mm if your lowered and 15mm on the front but if you want hubcentric i think the minimum is 18mm
Spacers wont help with handling,will change scrub radius to potentially make handling worse Plus adding more strain on the wheel bearings. A threads running about this in another section when offset is altered. Unless you drive the car real hard,i doubt you will notice much though.
I was reading that thread with interest. I will get the geo checked on mine and go from there..thanks
Ah I see. Always nice to fill the arches. I won't bother with them then as I only have an inch each side clearance on the trailer.
Did my rear bumper inserts today, real easy thanks to Matt's advice! Had some black plasticote/dip left so used that. Looks new (If it doesn't last I'll primer and paint them properly..)
done a couple of small bits, ive finally got the fuel rail sorted so it bolts to the mk2 inlet. but haven't fitted it yet. might do it this weekend. also because im not using the regulator on the rail i got a blank made up to fit in its place Welded by matt eaton, on Flickr Under side by matt eaton, on Flickr Blank fitted by matt eaton, on Flickr ive decided im going to fit a DW65C fuel pump as well as the current pump has done 95k now and the car really isn't standard much now. there's a myth on the internet as well that the non standard fuel will use more power and could burn out the upc and its best to fit a dedicated power supply from the battery. as mine is in the boot its easy to run a new wire for it. ive placed a relay in the boot for it and ive ran the wire to the original around the fuel tank up to the connector for the sender Relay with loom by matt eaton, on Flickr Relay wiring by matt eaton, on Flickr and while im there im going to run braided ptfe fuel pipe from the tank to the rail as ive seen a few megane leaking fuel and the line can corrode but im buying bits now and agin for that and probley wont be till next year now and buying the AN fittings isnt cheap! on the rail i had to buy abouts bits just so it misses a vacuum line and the little connectors that make the push fittings to a an6 are about £17 each Fuel connector by matt eaton, on Flickr Fuel connector by matt eaton, on Flickr and because im fitting a new pump i thought it would be better to buy a second hand sender then get it cleaned and it saves me messing around with mine and i can just swap it straight over. had it ultrasonically cleaned by @Trophyboy it came out like new. just need to save up for the pump now or hope i get it for Christmas. Clean fuel sender by matt eaton, on Flickr Clean fuel sender by matt eaton, on Flickr new gasket/lock ring for the sender Fuel sender gasket by matt eaton, on Flickr and ive been looking for a loudwer exhaust, ktec sell a 2.75" with a smaller back box that fits the milltek pipes (its made by milltek anyway) got it off ebay. when i got it the tips were covered in carbon and when i had cleaned the the chrome underneath had worn and flaked off. so i painted the tips black. they never stay very clean anyway with the decat fitted Ktec exhaust by matt eaton, on Flickr and im going to fit a oil cooler but im going to use a thermostatic one. because theres not alot of room between the radiator and oil filter with a sandwich plate fitted im going to bin the standard laminova type thing ive bought the insert that the 1*2 uses soo ill fit that and loop the coolant hoses together. its only a small setrab cooler that i picked up off ebay cheap brand new. ive had a couple of brackets made up to fit it as well Setrab oil cooler by matt eaton, on Flickr Oil cooler bracket by matt eaton, on Flickr Oil cooler bracket by matt eaton, on Flickr Coolant loop by matt eaton, on Flickr lastly im going to paint the intercooler black. ive got some spray paint that you can use on radiators thats still suppose to let heat transfer. i painted the crash bar last week back should look better with a black intercooler although the crash bar is hidden lol Paint for intercooler by matt eaton, on Flickr Painted crash bar by matt eaton, on Flickr
I don’t think anyone has actually measured the current draw from an OEM pump to compare with that of the aftermarket pumps to get real clarity on whether a separate line is needed. It’s quite possible that different pumps will draw more/less current than OEM even if providing the same fuel pressure. They may be providing higher/lower fuel flow rates. In my opinion, it’s how much of a safety factor you want to include. Melting the UPC is possible as there isn’t a removable fuse there.
