Which mount is it that you can change for the 275 mount and tap out for the larger bolt on the 250 has anyone got a diagram as need to order one. Is it worth changing the point or just tap out and change the bolt ?
Its the one that sits under the battery. Good guide and diagrams on this thread http://rsmegane.com/threads/definitive-250-gearbox-mount-solution.11318/ Mine snapped a few weeks back and I drilled out the snapped bolt and re-tapped. The newer mount looks basically identical on the 265/275 but the rubber locators and points are bit firmer but still retains the weak bolt. The real long term solution i'll do is mount the bolt from underneath and with a nut on the top that way rather than the bolt having to snap it would require the whole mount to which I can't see happening. Anyway speaking from experience at least change that bolt as I kept putting it off then it snapped.
In terms of fixing points I see very little or no difference in anyway to say that the revised part will suddenly make using the same bolts and fixings not snap.
I know the mount shown on the right is that of all the RS250's the one on the left of all the RS275's. I'm 95% certain the RS265 took the revised mount. That said it's still a poxy non-high tensile M10x50mm 10.3 grade bolt which under stress this happens. If it links from my FB should be a photo below. I replaced with a M12x60mm 12.9 high tensile bolt. For reference Mackays in Cambridge do them for £0.88, BMW do a M12x50mm 12.9 high tensile bolt on the E46 M3's as part of there flywheel kit for £5.02 as well if anyone struggles to find the bolt.
I was just thinking for those who don't have tools and knowledge of tapping a hole for M12 bolt would it better to just replace with same M10 size with 12.9 tensile? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That may be a good option providing that the standard one is an 8.8 rated bolt. By going to a 10mm rated at 12.9 there should be around an 80% increase in 'strength'. Unless of course my research is flawed! :-)
