Hey folks First post here, and (as is usually the case on forums) it's not good news... tl;dr - my RS265 turns over healthily but won't start (no pulse to coils or injectors), it isn't the crank sensor, might be the cam sensor, but if it's not that then wtf can I suggest next? I've owned my 265 for a couple of months (start of April) and although it's not done many miles, it's been 100% reliable for me. It needed a thermostat and clutch supply line which are now fixed thanks to Diamond, but besides that was driving perfectly. 'til Sunday, when I took it out around 10am to go and get the AC leak tested and topped up. I went. No problems. Got the check done and some gas put in, the car got turned on and off a couple of times while I went inside at the start/end. No problems. Drove all the way home and parked back on my drive. No problems. Lunchtime I needed to go out again, and the car turned over healthily with no warnings/error lights/codes, but refused to start (and hasn't started once since then). I had to go out but I called the RAC out on Sunday night. There was a crank sensor error code, and the guy said the speed was lower and more erratic than he would have expected while it was cranking, so his opinion was it was the crank sensor. He also said there was no pulse to the coils or injectors, which he also said was probably caused by the crank sensor. He couldn't fix it, but the RAC would tow me somewhere on Monday morning. I couldn't get in with Diamond for weeks so it went to a local place. They explained they'd diagnose it for themselves, then they also said crank sensor so I authorised them to fit a new genuine one. They did that yesterday, didn't fix the problem. So I authorised their auto electrician, who came out today and said he couldn't find anything solid, but it might be the cam sensor. A genuine one of those is not a lot of money on top of what I'm already into this repair for, I've said they can go ahead and do that too (hopefully tomorrow). But if that doesn't fix it, their suggestion is "we'll have to take the ECU out and send it off for testing" which sounds expensive and long, neither of which I like the sound of. So I'm looking for any other ideas...there's plenty of fuel in it, and if you put the key card in without pushing the button you can hear the fuel pump priming so that seems fine. Thanks all!
Try the cam sensor first, the engine will run with the crank sensor disconnected, but wont run with the cam sensor disconnected.
That sounds promising...Mick (Diamond) said the same thing when I called on Monday morning about it probably not being the crank sensor because it should be able to run on the cam sensor alone. But he didn't have any free time to look at it for about three weeks so I had to go somewhere else and they just concentrated on the error code which pointed at the crank sensor. Figners crossed the new sensor turns up to be fitted tomorrow and I can get it back and enjoy it.
Easy job to do yourself, one bolt and a two pin plug, it's on the top of the engine so just lift the bonnet
Wish I'd known that before I said yes now... The car's already there and I can't imagine they'd give me a free tow out of the workshop to do it myself so it'll cost either way. Now I know that's all it is, I'll be keeping a careful eye on how much labour they charge for this job though (as well as trying to haggle some off the unnecessary crank sensor...). I just hope this is the issue, with one thing and another I've only had about 2 days where the car actually made its proper power and it's a riot, until it decided to just crap out on me
Just to not be the annoying guy who doesn't come back and post a solution (now I've remembered the password); it was the cam sensor in the end. With a new one of those it jumped back into life again. I did manage to get a bit of a labour discount off the bill and they didn't charge for the courtesy car, but they wouldn't do anything about the crank sensor that got replaced because it did have an error code and wasn't returnable anyway (which doesn't actually sound like much of my problem, but there you go). Having managed to actually drive a fair few miles now after the AC gas was topped up, I'm 99% sure that's still not working though so that'll be the next incoming bill at some point... So for anyone with a P0335 (Engine Speed Signal) error code, maybe try a nice easy DIY cam sensor replacement first and don't get stuck with a bill like I did.
