As above please gents. I'm hoping to get a torque wrench for my birthday so I can get the wheels off my trophy and clean the insides and cost them with sealant. Also want to do my ohlins to protect them. And finally I want to buy some two piece discs so need to know what torque setting the calipers are set to because they'll need to come off and be spaced out for the new discs. So, although a long question all I actually need to know is this! 1. Torque setting for wheel bolts. 2. Torque setting for caliper bolts. Many thanks lads.
Well I was thinking of the reyland ones or even the Godspeed ones as they are much more competitively priced.
I've been impressed with my Reyland AP kit on the Beemer. I'll have a look over on their site and see how much they are.
If you going to be splashing out on 2 piece discs get proper floating ones. PFC/Girodisc Theres a reason why the others are much cheaper.
Not really much point for a road car. You could say the same for going two piece at all I suppose, but they look great too!
Two piece will be still be better than stock. A. They are larger discs B. They will dissipate heat better C. They look cool as fuck! Anyway this isn't a debate about the pros and cons of discs merely a torque setting thread!
Horses for courses then, If your spending the money do it once and do it right. I'm eventually going to upgrade to PFC discs, Mainly because the stock discs are wank on track and really can't cope with proper pads. On my 5th pair of fronts in 78k and Ive done one set of discs to my current set of Carbotechs. Not to mention the cracking LOL. PS, Have Reyland addressed the issues with the horrendous runout that plagued the Mk2 setups?
I do agree with you, but I've got a budget you see hence looking at the cheaper ones. Normally in the kind of man to buy the most expensive of everything but sadly that habitat cannot be maintained across all my hobbies! What do you mean by runout dude?
some people had a dodgy set from Reyland, discs didn't run true, i had a set of 330mm from them and they were fine, only lasted 4 trackdays tho running ds 1.11 pads.
The issue is the discs/rotors are not a performance item. They tend to be a disc found in the right diameter and then machined out to suit what ever Bells they are going on
There aren't any stickers on the inside on the mk3? Is there any way to find out 100%? I took my wheels off today and need to know for sure, thanks!
I've taken my wheels off plenty of times and always torque them back up to 130nm and overcheck them on track to 130nm mate
Thanks mate. I've only done them to 110 for some reason I must've misread above so will re do them tomorrow properly!