Both will work but the sleeve is much better IMO. It's an absolutely fantastic piece of kit which makes a half hour job into a 5 minute job. edit: In fact I think I recall someone saying the original fitted tie rods don't have any cut outs for a spanner to fit the body so only the sleeve would work.
As above. The originals don't have any spanner flats so the sleeve really is your best option. Make sure you get the correct size one though, I bought one originally and then found out it wouldn't fit, I then had to buy another. Unfortunately I can't remember the size off the top of my head.
It's not too difficult on the megs as on full lock there's quite a lot of room on the tie rod end to even get some mole grips on, the 172/182s in comparison are an utter nightmare! Still with the sleeve tool you can be sure it's tightly refitted.
Yeah mole grips and stilsons also work, but if you slip, they like to chew the thing apart. But as you say, you can ensure they're refitted correctly with the sleeve tool as you can attach a torque wrench and torque them up to spec!
Sorry for the necro, but could someone help me choose the correct tool for removing and refitting OEM track rods? Would this work -> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tie-Rod-...146753?hash=item4691391041:g:2BMAAOSwf75cfQ82 What I'm curious about is how do you apply correct tightening torque on the rod, or do you all just go by "feel"?
Even just the diameter of the inner ball joint housing on the tie rod would be very helpful. I need to find a suitable tool soon and there's always delay in transit to the Nordic countries.. (thanks)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S-BJT45-...639332&hash=item4b1541fb9e:g:3MAAAOSwWxNYvvf6 It's got a 1/2 bit at the end to use with a torque wrench.
Yes, that size (albeit not from that seller) is the one I bought to do the ones on my 175, which is the same.
If you want to save some money or if you’re struggling to get hold of the correct tool, it’s fairly straightforward to make one. Here’s the one I made. I welded a socket to a steel bar, drilled 2 holes and used a c clamp to go around the track rod end. Then just use an extension bar in to the socket. Not the fanciest tool but I’ve used it a couple of times and it works well.
