Speaker upgrade

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by Ahmed918, Jan 6, 2020.

  1. Were you planning on making your own adapter rings? They are both bigger than the 13cm adapter rings commercially available will accommodate.

    Both options are going to be massively better than standard but I'd go for the Audison's because the spec tells you the crossover point (3.5kHz), so will definitely give a good soundstage. The Alpine seem to be very well engineered but omit the crossover point from their spec, so all that good sound could be mostly be directed at your legs.
  2. Did contemplate the Audison prima apk165’s but they would need some fabrication to fit our Megane’s I believe given it’s a 6.5” woofer size. Would need a good amp for clean power source to drive them + fabrication to fit + ideally upgrading factory head unit to make the most out of the apk165’s

    that’s why i stuck with the apk130’s as it’s a direct fit for our Megane’s given 5.25” woofer size
  3. Gavin.

    Gavin. RSM Admin

    Nice up to date thread here, been thinking about updating my speakers recently. Headunit has been changed, I have the Pioneer min amp and a slimline sub but I’m ready for a bit extra.
  4. @Gavin. what you thinking of upgrading to for that bit extra?
  5. 5CE34CBC-8813-4C3D-BFDD-19EFD56E16A7.jpeg So I bought the Audison apk165. You can fit a 6.5 in there. The little crossover box, one side input the other side tweeter. Can I connect the input directly to the exiting tweeter connector in the dash or do I tap into the positive and negative on the speaker cables. Help much appreciated.
  6. Connect the tweeter cable in the dash to the Audison high pass filter and the mid/bass directly to the speaker connector in the door. The diagram in the box-out depicts what is effectively the wiring scheme the car has as standard, so no need to do any splicing yourself.

    Just to be clear, is your car a mk2 or mk3? I'd be interested to see a picture of how you fit these larger speakers in a mk3.
  7. So in simple terms, the end which says input connects to the dash.

    it’s a mk3. You’ve got 65mm from the door skin to when the glass is down. I’ve made custom speaker rings 20mm thick, which I’ve riv nutted the door and these bolt too. I trial fitted the door card and it fits.
  8. Gavin.

    Gavin. RSM Admin

    Change the actual speakers, they are still standard in mine.
  9. Incase anyone is wandering, theres a cable and plug in the back for optional tweeters that come with Arkamys system. I drilled and fitted a surface mount tweeter in mine, (plain as possible tweeter) even thou i had 2-ways in the back anyway.
  10. Hi

    So did you get the APK165 to fit ok? I had a listen to the APK130's and the 165's today and the 165's were noticeably nicer sounding so I'd really prefer those.

    Did you need adapters etc?
  11. Yes they fit but you need to make custom speaker rings. 80096112-3406-4141-A993-EFB2D74582F9.jpeg
  12. Thanks for taking the time to reply, and put the picture up.

    Did you just make the rings out of MDF? I'm reasonably handy so don't mind having a go myself.

    My local car audio place flatly said a 6.5" wouldn't fit.
  13. Or could I use something like this?
  14. F462FA66-12AC-4D3E-81E5-C914D90AF426.jpeg Your better off making your own more for fixing them to the door. I drilled and riv nutted the door. From memory it needs to be about 30mm thick. This allows plenty of clearance for the back of the speaker and doesn’t hit the window when down. Didn’t have to do anything to the door card either
    ar53gp likes this.
  15. Hey all, same issue I'm having in almost 2024...

    Do I have to have the Dash tweeters connected?

    I unplugged it because my Focal Flax EVO 6.5" came with its own mid and tweeter.

    I connected the tweeter onto the door pad and snuck the Focal crossover in the door.

    I used the original door speakers wiring to connect to the crossover which split it into tweeter and mid but it still sounds terrible..

    I'm wondering if the Renault has a factory crossover somewhere?

    Attached Files:

  16. I don't think there is a crossover as the factory fitted tweeters have a capacitor mounted on them to act as a high pass filter. I doubt they would bother with this if there was a crossover.
  17. So I need to reuse the tweeter cable?
    Or can I leave it unplugged?

    I'm currently running the new Focal Tweeter off the Focal crossover connected to the door speaker wire.

    I also read in this thread, one person connected the aftermarket crossover to the dash and connected the new tweeter onto it and used the door speaker wire to connect to their new speaker as the door speaker wire outputs full range audio?

    I was looking at Morels previously, that one has a more simpler crossover, just a capacitor soldered directly onto the wire but I went for focal thinking it would be better with a proper crossover and now I'm having so much headache.

    I also have a proper DSP but that thing is a pain to tune on its own.

    Attached Files:

  18. The way you've wired your Focal components is correct - the door wire is full range. I'd say if you're not happy with the way it sounds the problem lies elsewhere. I'd suggest start by simplifying the setup by removing the DSP from the signal chain to see what effect that has.

    Also, what sort of device are you using to convert the speaker level signal to line level? There are some very poor quality converters out there.
  19. The DSP is also the line converter.

    I have come to the solution that the radio is the issue..

    My DSP has an optical input, I used a Bluetooth to Optical receiver and the speakers sounds perfect.
    This method bypassed the radio completely.

    I've decided to get an Audison B-Con to solve my insues as I'm tired of messaging around with this radio
  20. did you guys sort the issue,

    ive ordered some Vibe components but unsure to use factory tweeter

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