RS250 Race Build

Discussion in 'Megane Projects' started by Jordan Moyle, Nov 3, 2021.

  1. After blowing my bottom end to a million pieces at Brands (oh and also catching fire), I’m going to be converting my Meg from track spec to race spec. Along with the engine replacement.

    Not worked on cars much, so should be interesting

    Few pics below of before and after she blew. Had only just fitted the Puretrack splitter as well a ZPO shifter. She was running nice til she let go.

    I was running a hybrid turbo at about 340bhp. When I bought the car it was already on its second engine after running 360bhp and the blowing bottom end the same way. Neither engine had done that many miles. First one blew on 40 (shows in the history paperwork), then mine blew on 65k.

    Consensus is that the power is just too hard on the standard internals. Not so bad if you’re on road and booting it every so often.
    But a bit too much stress when doing 15/20 min track sessions.

    Also think the hybrids burn a bit of oil, so something to really keep on top of.

    When I split the engine open there may be more evidence of what failed first.

    Hope that’s of some use for anyone considering them.

    I’m going to keep the hybrid on but will be limiting the boost so that I only make circa 300. This was suggested by Andy at Engine Dynamics who certainly can’t be argued with, the reason for retaining the hybrid is that although we’re restricting the boost, it will be able to hold it for longer.

    Also worth adding the power will be limited based on the bhp/tonne limit for the class I want to enter.

    The races I’ll be entering are 40 mins long, so cooling will be something we need to get around too.

    Will post some bits on my Instagram too jordanmoyle55 if of any interest. Look forward to seeing how the Meg holds up against the other cars. Series I’m considering are the roadsport series and the turbo tin tops.

    Have already started the project so will post more very soon.

    90F9F22B-6E8B-44D3-B2B9-B9E30E00E767.jpeg 324B88CB-F57F-4BFF-BECB-829C704E2806.jpeg 593D7429-C0E7-4864-9F2C-C69FF37826FB.jpeg 5EE37088-E9A4-4A5F-AFC0-94E8205A938D.jpeg 0DEA5BC4-DA3A-4CA5-B5A1-D8FCD4B9D38C.jpeg B614A985-EE5F-495B-B1E1-75FC39BFD33B.jpeg 38292D93-1269-4902-B254-8F03700F894F.jpeg 3D007279-4D97-42BF-9F3C-F0364F200C94.jpeg 86CC7618-96B5-44AD-A2E9-C6F7475F5134.jpeg
  2. Holes in the casing. These bits of bearing and conrod were literally sat on the splitter.

    3E852973-47FA-4455-8864-D8BD234DBAAD.png BCACD1F8-6FA3-4DB4-B38D-5CE634FED80F.png 1FB092A7-CE27-4294-97F5-0F55A30E77D9.png 524C56FB-FCA1-4CF8-82E1-254D6750A9B7.png E61A45F4-257D-4CF5-9FFA-BB78AD2742B4.jpeg 50F07DD9-38C1-4275-946D-EA718DB35B62.jpeg CD75359D-AB88-43A5-9750-B5199AE4E731.jpeg BFB360B6-57A4-42D0-ABBD-3C18D7FAB1C6.jpeg 3E852973-47FA-4455-8864-D8BD234DBAAD.png BCACD1F8-6FA3-4DB4-B38D-5CE634FED80F.png 1FB092A7-CE27-4294-97F5-0F55A30E77D9.png 524C56FB-FCA1-4CF8-82E1-254D6750A9B7.png E61A45F4-257D-4CF5-9FFA-BB78AD2742B4.jpeg 50F07DD9-38C1-4275-946D-EA718DB35B62.jpeg CD75359D-AB88-43A5-9750-B5199AE4E731.jpeg BFB360B6-57A4-42D0-ABBD-3C18D7FAB1C6.jpeg
  3. 4A4A23F0-78A0-4DF3-A856-E4889642BD66.jpeg My bad for duplicating pics above.

    Removed most the front end to start with, binned the AC condenser off.
  4. Then off with the crash bar, Rad, Fan and IC

    2E53CAC1-4033-4442-B3D6-41A8E96D0A2A.jpeg E96FD44B-165B-4BFD-BE30-481A7E8CF976.jpeg
    Mr Spoon and Poppaboost like this.
  5. Best of luck with the build
  6. Thanks mate, I’m gonna need it
    Mr Spoon likes this.
  7. That was a big badabum for sure :coldsweat:. Good luck and enjoy the new build!!
    Jordan Moyle likes this.
  8. BF641D9B-7C9B-4D72-A4A3-612D2A9B8D1A.jpeg The 110k mile replacement engine has arrived, hope it works :tearsofjoy:
    Mr Spoon likes this.
  9. 7952B45E-16A0-49B6-A7F1-3BC12A5DEE8A.jpeg ECBD9F76-4E84-48AA-AE7D-AA80725D791A.jpeg Waiting for a wiring diagram to arrive (£40 on eBay :rage:) but in the meantime started stripping out the airbag wiring.
  10. Good luck and cant wait to see your progress :blush:
  11. After starting all this, I then had a change of job and all my free time disappeared. Fortunately I’ve just had a friend from Poland visit for a week. Full time mechanic so he lent a helping hand and we’ve finally got things moving. Engine finally out

    Attached Files:

  12. So, new engine, albeit 110k miles on it. New clutch, light weight flywheel, timing belts and water pump. Red silicone pipes too because why not 6755C52F-A5E9-43CB-884C-C961FD763AF1.jpeg 11291442-89BD-40A9-A860-EC78148E1F12.jpeg 2698C19D-695A-4BED-A416-567AF384CBF2.jpeg
  13. She starts going in
  14. 242BFD5C-AE90-4139-96A2-66F33D92F868.jpeg So we split the old engine. It wasn’t pretty!
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  15. Damn! that really did go bang. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
    Jordan Moyle likes this.
  16. Been chasing my tail trying to sort out the electrical issues. Big mistake but obviously you spend the whole time chasing a possible quick fix, never to find that little cut or short, in the meantime spending money swapping out every possibility. So a lot of time wasted, but lesson learnt. New plan, rip out absolutely everything, inc ABS, and run a custom loom with ECUmaster running gear. Going to be horrifically expensive, but will be mega platform going forward. So come the time of big turbo etc, it will be nice, Plus should i blow another engine, it makes the swap piece of piss.
    In the meantime, custom cage has gone in...
    PHOTO-2023-04-26-21-03-39 8.jpg PHOTO-2023-04-26-21-03-39 2.jpg PHOTO-2023-04-26-21-03-39 7.jpg PHOTO-2023-04-26-21-03-39 6.jpg
    manugtt likes this.
  17. Good Progress. What electrical issues have you come across? I'm about to embark on a similar build, and curious to know if there are some things I should avoid ripping out! Have DDT4ALL, and was hoping that would allow me to rip out all the airbag stuff with out issue?
    My back up plan was always to go with the MOTEC M130 plug and play option from the boys in aussie
  18. So there’s two parts to this, when the car blew there was a small fire, I thought that all the electrics were fine with the exception of an abs sensor that’s burnt through entirely. That was replaced, thought all would be fine.

    Before getting the new engine in and reconnecting up the battery I got a bit excited and started cutting out anything and everything i didn’t need. Airbags, speakers, reverse sensors, window motors etc etc

    Come to firing the car back up the dash was having a shit fit. Spent a lot of time where going in circles. Everything brought a small improvement but nothing cured it. Most recently we found the abs module is massively fucked, disconnecting it makes huge improvements but still issues.

    So I can’t tell what caused what, abs sensor burning out probs caused the ABS Ecu to shit itself. But I think I did an equal amount of damage trying to trim down the loom. Speaking to a few dealers nearer the time, like APMotorsport for example, they all winced saying oooo wouldn’t have done that, they don’t like it. Well they were right. Speaking to an experience race car builder, he said there can be loads of additional small ground cables intwined in those wires that I thought were irrelevant. Maybe that’s common knowledge, but I had no idea.

    My personal advice would be don’t bother, and if you do, keep it simple.

    I think the main issue is there are no straightforward wiring diagrams online.
  19. Cool Cool... This makes sense... Having a fire would be a night mare.. I'll stick to unpugging things a 1 at a time to make sure I don't cock it up


    Jordan Moyle likes this.
  20. All wiring diagrams are publicly available on the Internet, for free.
    Pillows can be disabled using ddt4all.
  21. Got a link? Everything I can find is practically in hieroglyphics !!:coldsweat:
  22. I have removed virtually all unnecessary wires from the loom on my RS250 track car build with no major issues but I have lost the heater blower, that may be a fault in the motor due to the common water ingress issues. My remote/alarm still works. Everything dashwise works correctly with no fault codes. I have retained abs system.
  23. Oh okay, Good to know! So I might’ve been okay, had other parts of the system not already been fried anyway :sweatsmile:
  24. Door and boot lid on
    1679ABEB-9B78-431A-AD6D-462D2ADB4CA5.jpeg 4B07CE88-32CD-4932-9F7C-D38F55D5B808.jpeg
    manugtt likes this.
  25. AD641318-7826-4886-B379-A8C182E39B41.jpeg That’s the weight off, but the boot and doors had already had cards and motors removed,
    So think in all there’s about 105 to be removed. A quick weigh up of the GRP bonnet, doors, boot and Perspex windows is showing around 32kg to go back in. So say 3kg to allow for aero catches, glues, and lightweight door cards. Looking at a net saving of 70kg :grinning:
    Muxa and manugtt like this.

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