Can someone send me links to options (not KTec) for bolt in cages for the Mk3? I want to keep stock trim (back seats are gone of course) and I'd like to look at rear cage and then also full cage with door bars.
Did you find any more info on this @Mark_RS ? I have only seen the K-Tec half cages for sale. I'm after a half cage for a RS250
We sell half & full cages for the Megane RS 250 and can be built to your own spec and colour too. Fitting is also available as an option which is not shown. https://www.apmotorsport.co.uk/product-page/megane-3-rs-cage-clubsport
Depends what you want, None of the off the shelf options are that great IMO. Bolt in with no welding or spreader plates is daft. I went custom on mine complying to MSA bluebook as ill be competing in mine this season, Just rear for now but front will be added later this year. 20180420_154641 by Jamie Atkinson, on Flickr 20180420_150130 by Jamie Atkinson, on Flickr 20180420_150111 by Jamie Atkinson, on Flickr Out of all the off the shelf options though, The one that Gosling Racing do is probably one of the best, Id just be wanting some proper towers/spreader plates welded in to the shell though
@-Jamie- The only thing with a welded in cage is the removal, when it comes to selling the car i'd be removing the cage & buckets. Obviously the welded in option is by far the safer option but I wont be competing, just track days and inc. some European tracks. I'm looking for a more clubsport setup.
I know that, mine is still bolt it but it has proper mount locations welded in, which is needed either way imo if you want it to work properly if you ever had to rely on it
@-Jamie- so just a bolt in cage will offer no or little protection in the event of a roll? I've never really looked into cages to much. Weld in is obviously by far the safest option but I'd go full cage if I were to go for welding in.
Not at all, it still will but a decent bolt in still needs spreader plates/feet to be decent imo. There are a few that bolt into existing holes but I personally wouldnt trust them.
The problem is the feet will just punch through the floor, or punch out the small number of spot welds holding the floor in. http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/aft/42413 This is the reason why the MSA require welded in foot boxes/spreader plates to be used with bolt in cages for competition cars.
I will add that half cage is not that bad as long as the top of the roll hoop is substantially higher than your head. You can even race with them, there are some drawings in the MSA blue book with regards to roll hoops. Basic concept is for your head to be inside the line made between the roll hoop and the cars scuttle panel/front bulkhead, this way even if the front of your roof caves in flat you will be OK underneath. Some cars such as Morgans for example race with only a rear hoop (like a half cage). Likewise ISTR that small engined cars don't need a full cage but then I have never actually seen anyone crazy enough to race like that, its one of those rules like the seating (don't have to use a bucket seat unbelievably).
So could your cage be removed @-Jamie- leaving the welded in spreader plates in place and then refit the interior of your car? This is the only reason I didn't want to go for weld in so that the cage can be removed and the car put back to standard. If the bolt in cage (as delivered from either companies above) is not worth having in then I wont bother if it's just for decoration. I won't be racing my megane, just track days.
Has anyone found that a full Cage has compromised handling at all by making the chassis too stiff? Slightly better when chassis a bit more compliant? I saw a comment on it somewhere.
Depends what other stuff you do. Never heard of that before and had lots of caged cars. Obviously if you go down the route of making a car better on track (safety and handling) then you start to compromise road ability.
