thought I would share my experience of the rear discs and pads replacements came from Renault chester who knocked almost £100 off their initial price to match what I could buy online. rear hub nuts 34 mm (not 30 as it says on some sites) wheels off undo caliper from housing using 13mm & a flat 15mm spanner remove caliper mounting using a female torx remove hub nut - f'ing tight but the electric impact wrench shifted it wind piston into caliper - this is where I had problems ive got the proper wind back tool but the plate which is part of the tool was too thick - solution? Cut a grove in an old pad and use that with the wind back tool. A small spray of wd40 will stop the dust seal from bunching up as the caliper turns. Screws all the calipers/mounts back together was the only way to get enough leverage for the wind back tool to work otherwise you just can't hold the caliper tight enough and it will kink the brake pipe once the caliper Pistons are back in its a simple job of bolting back together... awful job but brakes back to being great again.
Only need one bolt to hold caliper steady for wind back, apply dab copperslip were pads touch caliper stop the beggars screening
It's only soft copper, calipers and pads iron, copperslips been industry standard for pads since dawn time
I stopped using copper slip years ago. I see a lot of old codgers in boiler suits still using it though. I use plasti lube now.
Haha that was the stuff to use when they were young. Copper slip is the worst thing to use on an alloy caliper that's a fact.
http://goo.gl/e4ZNvV another industry standard, though not commonly known by home mechanic, good to 1100 deg C, brakes, drive shaft splines, wheel bolts etc.
i use ceratec instead of copper grease http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...nance-fluids-and-greases/grease/?526770250&0&
