250 Rear caliper refurbish kit. Which one?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by Gareth, Jun 18, 2020.

  1. Hi,

    As above, my rear calipers are a sticking and could do with a refresh. Where is the best place to get the seals/new piston from?

    Thanks
     
  2. Someone must have some info?
     
  3. Cheers mate. I’m guessing I can just clean the old pistons up and don’t need to replace them?
     
  4. Kind of depends what state are in, if pitted or corroded should change, theses callipers are pita to work on as lots bits inside piston might look at some vids first also will need wind-back tool to replace piston
     
  5. I hope they are ok and just need a bit of grease on/refresh. I’ll take a look tomorrow night. I’ll research some vids and see.
     
  6. Tex

    Tex

    Don't think they are that expensive to buy new/reconditioned?
     
  7. RPD sell them for £177 a side so not cheap really.
     
  8. That’d me my first option, can get them around £50 made bt TRW
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Tex

    Tex

    Thats what I thought? Got any links?
     
  10. I’d like to know where to get them from. Having searched online I can’t find them anywhere in stock or under £100 each.
     
  11. yes you are correct, the genuine TRW that are red and Reno specific are more expensive than same item un- painted
     
  12. So the unpainted one is exactly the same just not red? If so I’ll buy the unpainted ones.
     
  13. Tex

    Tex

    And for completeness who has the link / part number for the unpainted ones?
     
  14. Yes same just match the part numbers and be aware of course when come to sell vehicle questions will be asked why not traditional Reno red caliper in place
     
  15. Tex

    Tex

    If you paint it red it will be no different?
     
  16. Yeah I’d be painting it a close to Brembo red before fitting.
     
  17. So I had a look at the calipers today. I didn’t take them off the car as I need the car for work in the morning. I re-greased the slider pins as they were nearly dry. This helped a little and reduced some noise. Moving on to the piston I managed to free it up and got a lot more movement out of it than last week but I ideally need to take the whole piston out and re-grease as the pads are still touching the discs constantly.
    The car doesn’t have OEM rear discs on, they are Apec or something? Could this be a cause of the constant rubbing?
    If it is I’ll buy some OEM discs and replace them.
     
  18. So having driven it to work this morning. The noise isn’t as squeaky but it’s a constant grind albeit not too loud but makes me embarrassed to drive it. So I’ll be ordering new calipers.
     
  19. See them two little chrome spacers either end of pads that keeps them tight in callipers, try taking the trailing one out, see how get on with just the one.
     
  20. Will give it a go tomorrow. Has that been known to work?
     
  21. they just stop pad rattling around, but quite tight and when pad gets super hot they dont allow for heat expansion and pad binds in caliper and make horrid noise until cools.
    I suspect in your case its piston at fault but nothing to loose taking the trailing spacer out (leave leading spacer in)
     
  22. The Ferodo pads that were in were a very tight fit but the Brembo’s I’ve replaced them with fit a lot easier. But like you said I’ll give it a go. I’m thinking it could also but the slider pins as one on each side still wouldn't move as freely as the other. I mean it probably is the piston as the handbrake mechanism moves quite well.
     
  23. That's the price for the Brembo rear brakes... I didn't know that Brembo have rear brake like ours :sweatsmile::sweatsmile:
     

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