Ok well I'll try and get all the detail down of the car since I've had it. Will do it in a few posts. To summarise, I spent a long time looking for this car. It's a very late 2005 model (low tax) with 40k on the clock and it took me so long to find one in the right condition. These pics are from the day I picked it up. IMG_20130124_140041 by PoobahUK, on Flickr IMG_20130124_140050 by PoobahUK, on Flickr IMG_20130124_140154 by PoobahUK, on Flickr IMG_20130124_140133 by PoobahUK, on Flickr IMG_20130124_140220 by PoobahUK, on Flickr IMG_20130124_142615 by PoobahUK, on Flickr After I picked it up I set about rectifying a few bits. Firstly a very badly worn standard gear knob was replaced with this: And a very shiney steering wheel was rectified with Magic Eraser followed by copious amounts of Gliptone: I also refurbished the centre caps and painted the calipers satin black:
When cleaning out the arches shortly after I got the car I was horrified at the standard (or lack of) of the Honda undersealing. I decided that I should get this sorted even before rust ever became an issue. Prevention better than cure and all that! After researching different products I settled on the Bilt Hamber range. I consulted with Pete from Bilt Hamber and he gave me some great advice as to what to go for. So, as of last night I had this little lot: I started off by getting the car in the air on stands, having the wheels off and removing the rear bumper. Nice and easy thanks to the advise I got from members here: So first job was to expect for any corrosion. Not too bad. The worst of it being around the crash bar mounts but all of it very light and easily removed with light sanding. the main crashbar itself was a little crusty so I decided that would need some more serious attention: Thankfully the areas around the arches were immaculte so that was a relief! So I cleaned any surface corrosion back, keyed the surface, degreased using Surfex HD and the applied the first coat of Hydrate 80 to the localised areas which had shown minor surface corrosion prior to being sanded back. Whilst I was waiting for that to dry I decided to get the boot vent sealed up. Another job off the massive list of things to do till I'm happy with the car. Once the Hydrate 80 was dry I applied Epoxy Mastic direct on top as advised by Bilt Hamber. Seriously lethal stuff; I now have mottled forearms as it DOES NOT wash off. The crash bar was sanded back, full Hydrate 80 treatment and then a top coat. I also used Dynax S50 in the sills and main longitudinal chassis rails via the drain holes provided. Comes with a great 360 degree spray head which is handy. The job for tomorrow is to refit the arch trims with silicone sealant and then apply Dynax UB to the rear of the arch lips and any other crevices. A long day and that's only the rear done so I'd imagine it'll be quite a while till the main underfloor and front end are done to the same level. Still, progress made at least.
A couple of small updates from the next day. First up I applied Dynax UB to the rear arch lips, crash bar and areas rear of the wheels (no pics as you can't actually see it on the Epoxy Resin!). Secondly, after letting the Dynax dry I put the arch trims back on with silicon sealant to keep any water out of the seam. I then gave him a quick wash and brush up. Contemplated removing the airbox resonator but thought better of it! One thing I noticed when I bought the car was this corrosion on the cross member under the airbox. I viewed six S2000's before buying this one and they all had it so it seems quite a common problem? Will have to have the airbox out, rub it all back, corrosion treat it with Hydrate 80 and then repaint it. I assume you can get Moonrock mixed in rattle cans? Would appreciate hearing from anyone who's dealt with the corrosion before and how they went about it?
Another quick update. The next weekend I tackled the front crossmember surface corrosion. Before: Rubbed it back to remove any of the loose corrosion and then attacked it with a solid 15mm thick layer of Bilt Hamber Deox Gel and wrapped it in cling film to seal it up. I left it to do its thing for about 12 hours following which I agitated it with a scotchbrite pad and was left with this. The majority of the corrosion had been removed and the remaining stuff was removed with a light amount of sanding back. Having got it to this state I gave it a coating of Bilt Hamber Electrox: And then several coats of Moonrock to match the rest of the engine bay: And all back together again. Pretty pleased with the job. Deox Gel did a great jobon it. I'd have liked to have left it for another 12 hours but time wouldn't allow on this occasion. Regardless, the level of corrosion removal was satisfactory for what I needed. I also carried out a little side project on my radiator supports. Before: After Deox Gel: And finally, coated in Electrox, Moonrock Grey and clearcoat. Many many more jobs to do on the car but that's another couple crossed off the list!
Next up, a set of new brakes and HEL lines all round. New discs, pads, calipers, lines, fluid. Proper job.
Final update for now. Bought a Pure DAB Highway H260DBi for the S. I think it's quite a new model out and has some really nice features for the price. Has CD, Ipod connection, USB, Bluetooth Music Streaming and Phone Connection, DAB Radio, Analog Radio. Best of all it's pretty subtle. Sounds excellent eve with the standard speakers so really chuffed. It has both DAB and Analog antenna connections but I'm running it in Analog till I work out how to neatly route the cabling to the bottom left of the windscreen.
So that's where we're upto. Plenty left to do, some more undersealing and it's going in to Pipewerx on the 9th August for the 'S2ki Exhaust Mod'. Basically involves welding in a couple of bypass pipes so it retains the OEM look but gives a bit more volume.
Good thorough progress there mate, always wanted to drive an S2000, they got more room in the cabin than an mx5 ?
Err, not really much more space. The boot is decent but it's all bonnet and boot so it's not crazy spacious. I'm nearly 6,2" and fit no problems though.
Ah thats cool then really must get round to having a go in one, always been something i browse on pistonheads
I quite like the look of these. Just seen one that had a single jap can exhaust hanging off the back. Looked shit. Spoilt the car! Great progress mate
Great to see the detail going into this new toy fella, I'm still loving it in my TTQS at the mo, but a S2k was contemplated. Couple of years and I may tempt it into one of these. What ever you do, don't go mounting a spoiler like this chap did I managed to get a photo of!! lol
Love these I'm seriously contemplating selling the 225 for one. Was there no factory under seal whatsoever?
Nice! I think this is one of the best looking roadster designs of the modern era: great proportions and the treatment of the front end is neat - I love the way the front overhang just totally disappears in the rear-3-quarter view. Please, please don't ever put a body kit on it!
Thanks for the comments gents. I'm aiming to keep it looking pretty OEM really. As said i'll do the 'exhaust mod' and might ultimately change the system (keeping it looing OEM though). Personally I'm a big fan of the facelift so pleased I plumped forthat in the end. The engine is just bonkers; I'm not sure I could deal with it's jekyll and hyde nature as a daily driver but it's a great thing for blatting about in at the weekends. After I've got it 100% how I want it and the underseal all complete I think I'll be looking to have some Mugen bushes thrown on there and a set of Nitrons. I haven't taken it on track yet but the on-road pace seems similar to the R26, however you can't take as many liberties with it as you could the Meg. The Meg you could do some stupid things in and it'd save your arse, the S2000 isn't as forgiving. It's certainly not a widow-maker as early reports make out but at the end of the day it's a RWD car with a peaky delivery so it's going to require a little more finesse!
I remember one, not as highly specced as yours, spinning in front of me on Stowe circuit. I literally shit. Get on ebay man, i know you like new and expensive but theres some right bargains. Mugen is expensive but its SOOOO sexy on a honda, you know what to do!
Yeah the early ones are a bit twitchy but the facelift revisions sorted most of that. They seem to be a bit of a fan of lift-off oversteer as you tip it in to a corner. Pretty nicely balanced though as the engine is mounted way back behind the front axle.
Very impressive. Always had a soft spot for these cars and it looks like this will be a very good example.
Up for sale now: http://www.rsmegane.com/classifieds.php?do=viewitem&itemid=7 Need to free up some cash so looking to seel or p/x against a 182 Trophy or 172 Cup.
More than likely. Selling the S2000 to free up a bit of cash and then probably go for a 172 Cup or a Trophy if I can get one within budget.
It won't take long to shift have you put it on type-r-owners & S2KI mmmmmmmmm a Trophy :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Anything taken your fancy yet Chris? Just watched Harry metcalf's glowing tribute to his trophy on evo, cracking little car.
I have had my eye on an S2000 for a year or two and had you sold yours next year I would've snapped it up. Just wondered, is the engine in them really forged out of the factory? And are they a good car to own and use every day?
There's a guy selling a lovely S2000 on rsmegane.com... Oh, hang on... That Evo video on the Trophy was really good. I think we should petition the broadcast companies to make a proper car program with him, Harris, Tiff, Plato, Dickie Meaden and Steve Sutcliffe actually driving cars and getting into all the good techy details like those trick Trophy dampers.
Don't want anything too mint. I intend to drive it and track it occassionally so don't want anything too mint that I'll be scared to drive. Something in good honest condition and decent mechanicals will do the trick.
