R26 Opening and closing the clutch slave cylinder bleed port

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by james.moseley.37, Oct 28, 2017.

  1. I probably rushed this job first time round, hence why when I've come to move the car, I've been left with a floppy clutch pedal and a puddle of fluid on the floor! How is the slave cylinder bleed nipple opened and closed properly?

    When I was opening it, I was pulling the metal clip off completely, and then just sliding the slave cylinder open and closed by hand to allow fluid to drain from the bleed nipple. I'm now thinking this isn't correct, but I was struggling to see the 2nd notch that people refer to that stops the slave cylinder from opening too far. Should the clip actually be pushed down, and then the cylinder slid open - does the clip then automatically clip into the 2nd position to lock it in this place?

    Just want to be sure I'm opening and closing it in the right way before I tackle this again.


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  2. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I had this problem after fitting my new clutch, the way i got around this was to get some small diameter pipe, like screen washer pipe, clear is good as you can see the air bubbles rising up the tube.
    Fit the pipe over the bleed outlet keep the other end higher than the reservoir pull the pipe back as you would to bleed it and leave it and have a cup of tea or leave over night.
     
  3. Cheers for the reply - my real issue was with knowing how to manipulate the metal spring clip on the slave to open and close the bleed nipple. Having watched a video on YouTube for a Clio, I'm pretty sure I was doing it the wrong way previously. I.e., it should be pushed in rather than removed completely in order to avoid sliding the slave open too far. I'm also fairly sure that I didn't reseat the slave properly in the closed position, hence why the puddle of brake fluid has appeared on the floor that has come from the bleed nipple.

    Hey ho, it's all a learning curve and much brake fluid usage!


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  4. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    On the megane (mine anyway) it has two clips, i think you push in the one close to the gearbox and pull till it clicks to open the bleed point, push back in when finished you should here it click back in
     
  5. So mine only has one (late model R26) but I think the principle is as you say. I think I cocked up before because removing the clip completely means the bleed nipple opens up much wider when the pedal is pumped, and as such the system can drag air back in rather than drawing fluid down from the reservoir. Path of least resistance and all that. I’ll try it the proper way and see what happens. The clutch is functioning, but the bite point is very low and the pedal isn’t always returning, so there must be air in the line. Also the fluid spurting out of the bleed nipple with every clutch press confirms that I mustn’t have seated the metal clip properly when reassembling.


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  6. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    There is another way :laughing:
    Once you know it is all sealed up, wedge the clutch peddle down with a piece of wood or such like, leave for an hour, then release the peddle, all the air will come to the top of the cylinder and when it's released it pushes the air back into the reservoir, also done this and works great.
     
  7. Will give that a shot, thanks. I’ve used a similar method when bleeding mtb brakes years ago!


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  8. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Its well worth a go as it is a bit tight and fiddly to get in there and bleed it
     

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