R26 Oil leak front of engine

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by adbett, Apr 10, 2020.

  1. R26.R, looks like there is some oil leaking from the front of the engine block...any obvious places it could be coming from?

    I can see this trail on the oil sump and when I look up from underneath - it's on the RHS of the sump as you look at the car. Nothing visible from above, it looks fine around the rocker cover etc. Oil filter feels dry as well

    Would be good to have some ideas before removing bumper and rad to inspect properly!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    have you had the oil changed recently?
     
  3. Yes! Did the oil but not the filter. At first I thought it was just spillage from refilling but it's now done about 150 miles and still fresh oil appearing. Can it still be connected with oil change?
     
  4. I know that by my old bicycle if I use non minarelic or thinner oil the engine would be sweating because of the "bad" quality they had in the past.

    But on a 2006 engine?

    If I would be you I would clean the bay to shine, and then drive another 100km or something and look again if something is sweating. Then you also could see where its sweating.

    What oil do you use? Before and now
     
  5. The new oil is the same as the old oil - correct Elf spec from RPD so should be OK. Problem is you can't really see the front of the engine very well, there's too much in the way!
     
  6. Oh okay.

    Mhm that's right :grimacing: but some things should be able to see.

    Maybe the oil filter is leaking. Do you have a sandwich plate there?
     
  7. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    That far across the engine is the oil feed pipe for the turbo, it's a banjo fitting 22mm from memory, could be that, worth a look.
     
  8. Oil filter felt dry, no sandwich plate. Didn't even know there was a turbo oil feed pipe down there, could be that

    Will get some more lights to help have a look, I think i might have an inspection mirror as well to hopefully see a bit more!
     
  9. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    could be from the oil change, and when the engine gets hot its its coming from where it it was trapped when the oils comes out from removing the filter.

    give it a good spray around there with brake cleaner
     
  10. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Sorry, read that again and saw you said front, oil feed for the turbo is at that position but at the rear, the only thing there is the bolt for the crank setting pin.
    Also might be worth tightening the sump bolts.
     
  11. He didn't change the oil filter....
     
    matt e likes this.
  12. I guess R26 has the F4R as well. In front of the engine ist the oil dipstick. If the oil change was recently, it seems to be connecting. Apart from that: Why didnt´t you change the filter? Should be done with every oil change.
    If you want to find the oil source: Clean the engine with brake cleaner properly (take a lamp to check for German Efficiency ;-)). Then provide chalk spray (didn´t do it by myself as yet, but it exists). I´m involved in engine develpoments and our dyno guys are using this frequently to check for leaks. Cleaning - chalking - Looking.....After chalking, run the engine only for a short time. If the leakage is too big then, you won´t find the root.
     
  13. Oldschoolracer got a point, the dipstick sleeve is in the block just with a oeing secured (and a small screw but at a high point on the inlet)

    Easy way to stop leakage there = silicone


    Another thing could be the screw where the drill or tool needs to be placed to replace the timing belt (to lock the curb)


    But much more holes for oils aren't there
     
  14. Doesn't have a better picture to show it

    IMG_20200410_182429.jpg

    Orange is the dipstick hole

    And right of it is the hole for the screw for the locking tool
     
    adbett likes this.
  15. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    why would you change the oil but not the filter?
     
  16. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I normally change every other oil change, but then i change the oil after every third trackday, so about 2k miles
     
  17. Simple answer is I couldn't unscrew it!! Limited tools and time to change the oil so ended up leaving it on

    However, it gets an oil change every 6 months and does a low mileage anyway so the filter will still be changed at about 12 months when it is done again in late summer (or whenever we get back to playing with cars)
     
  18. For the next time simply unscrew the plastic under the car car then you have perfect access to the filter.

    Best way, you order now or by time a tool for the job.

    Or you have in the garage big plumber pliers

    Or simply stich it with a big screwdriver =)


    KN have some oil filters with a nut on them for better Unscrewing




    Ah yes, be prepared to get a little bath if you unscrew it from the downside :tongueclosed:
     
  19. I did come up from underneath for the filter but couldn't turn it :tired: The car is parked in a secure underground car park but to do an oil change I need to drive it on to the street, had a few tools on me but not the oil filter clamp - it normally comes off easily...
     
  20. Just had a better look at the car, took some brighter lights, a mirror and removed some of the top pipework. Can see a lot better than my first attempt. Definitely looks like it is coming from the bottom of the engine - either dipstick, sandwich plate on the filter (sorry Jukidam, I didn't know it had one as standard!) or a electrical connector near the dipstick (oil level sensor??).

    Wasn't able to clean it up but will do and get some chalk spray - not used that before but sounds straightforward

    Is the inlet manifold easy to remove? The top bolts look straightforward but I'm guessing there are ones underneath that are harder to get to. Will be really easy to see and clean with it removed
     
  21. If you use chalk spray, you have to be sure to get the block properly cleaned before. If theres some old oil remaining and you spray chalk on, it will immediately become black and you don´t see the source of the leakage. Furthermore you have to accept that chalk spray makes your engine white and you have to clean it afterwards. Don´t complain after you´ve used it....probably you get a try more before without using it and finding the leakage without. Chalk maybe the last way to go.
     
    adbett likes this.
  22. I removed my inlet manifold to replace the gasket as there was black soot in places. It was pretty easy and you can see a lot with it removed.

    6C7F6917-E42D-4B5F-AB13-D13E26AA4B08.jpeg FA00770F-1145-4F7B-9FC9-C59F15457A15.jpeg 54A1EB10-03EF-40AB-BD06-3D4ED725A09E.jpeg 5BA5D716-C9AA-40CF-B4AF-680B8603FA25.jpeg
     
  23. Great photos, definitely looks the way to go - both to find the leak and then fix it. I looked up the details in the workshop manual, the torque settings for the manifold bolts is pretty low so hopefully will come out easily once you can get access.

    Top of your engine looks clean in the pics :sunglasses:
     
    Ian Hughes likes this.
  24. Have you taken advantage to carry admission with butt? it is said that some improvement is needed
     
  25. Got the inlet manifold off today, pretty straightforward. Can see pretty well although the very bottom of the engine block is a bit obscured. Almost certainly looks like the leak is from the dipstick.

    Cleaned up well with some degreaser...inevitably got a bit carried away with the clean spots and did a lot of the engine in the end :smile:

    Waiting for it to fully dry and will look for leaks and use chalk spray if needed degreaser.jpg engine bay.jpg
     
    Ian Hughes likes this.

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