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New to me! Megane 225 2005 55

Discussion in 'Track Days & Track Driving' started by Liam collins, Nov 24, 2020.

  1. Afternoon all

    This weekend I bought myself a 2005 (55) megane 225 with the intention of having it as a pure track car but have it MOT’d and taxed so I don’t have to trailer it to and from any days.

    Been having a mooch about online as to what bits need doing to get it ready for some fun! (I’m new to track driving so don’t feel the need to go for a mental set up yet)

    I appreciate the obvious answer will be brakes and tyres first then see how you go which I intend to do [emoji106]

    the car has got 129,000 miles on it but has receipts for a new clutch 12,000 miles ago and swivel joints 30,000 miles ago

    It has...

    Miktek cat back exhaust
    Forge dump valve
    H&R lowering springs

    Is there anything engine wise I should be concerned about at this mileage or that I should check so I don’t kill it on my first day out? I get that this is an open ended question and that it depends entirely on how well the car has been maintained.

    I just don’t want to invest £800 or so into tyres and brakes and kill it straight away.

    I know the car has been remapped but not a clue who by, to me it smells like it’s running rich. Would it be a good idea to take it straight to RS tuning and get them to map it again just for piece of mind that it’s running a good map?

    Any help or pointers generally with what to do/check/plan for the car will be greatly received. I’m fairly mechanically minded but new to the whole track life.

    Cheers. IMG_0942.jpg


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  2. i would take it to Rs Tuning or EFI for sure.If the
    maps bad,the engine wont last long.
    Lots of crap generic maps uploaded on these which is a recipe for disaster.

    Engines weakspot is the rods..It widely acknowledged to keep power below 300/300,if you want it to last,but it can be luck of the draw.

    Suspension and steering are areas of concern on these if maintenance has been neglected.
    I has bit by bit changed everything over the years on the suspension/bush/steering side on mine.

    places like autodoc and RPD are great for parts at sensible prices.

    If you are going to track it..BC Coilovers are not to expensive,and are a good addition if its going to be regularly tracked.
    Other than that..the best tyres you can get on it...Fereral RSR`s are a great compromise,which many rate highly for the cost,and have outstanding grip in the dry,and acceptable in the wet.
    If you manage the temps on the track,they will serve you well,without spending big bucks on michelins etc.

    Brakes is also a area not to be skimped on...make sure you hae no sticking pistons,and flush in new quality fluid like rbf600 etc.Pads wise...lots to choose from .CL6 and 5+ and DS 1.11 or DS uno are excellent pads for track work,and fast road.

    Other than that,just keep on top of your quality oil flushes more regular if tracking..Shell helix pro 5w 40 is what i use without any problems,but you can pay much more if you like with milners oils etc,if you want a more race orientated oil.

    If you are fitting the shortshift,then a gearbox oil change will also be benificial..it might never have been done.
     
  3. Thanks Andrew

    Thought that might be your advice regarding mapping, shame RS tuning are nearly 4 hours away from me!

    If I’m getting it mapped then would make sense to do all potential engine mods before hand?

    What seem to be the best/most common engine mods? From what I’ve read they’re,

    - Decat
    - Intercooler (I’ve heard there’s a chap that works for forge that makes his own?)
    - Air box mod
    - 630cc injectors
    - manifold??? Haven’t read much on this

    Thanks.


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  4. Just started looking into the forge actuators to fit before mapped as well, are they worth it?


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  5. No don't do it, get a mk3 actuator, told the Forge one is crap
     
    Liam collins likes this.
  6. where are you based?
    intercooler is always a good idea if tracking the car to keep temps down..forge or airtek...not chinese ones...crap.
    airbox will do nothing...some will disagree, but my ktec air intake defiantly helps the car breath better when modified higher up the rev range...Ktec claim substantial bhp gains..but dont know about that.

    630 injectors only needed if getting close to 300hp..which is questionable with that mileage on the car..i would be looking at a safer map,with the torque kept lower for safety.

    Decat...if you have friendly mot inspector,and the diagnostic light will come on,and need to be turned off.
    I really dont think you need to go this route,unless chasing the last few HP.
    Most aim for 260hp/280lb/ft on a car of this age.
    this is achievable with no mods

    You will go much faster round a track with suspension/brake/tyre/tuition improvement..
     
  7. Thanks for the advice. Really helpful [emoji106]

    I’m based in Somerset.


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  8. I’ve just noticed kTec are only in Dorset which is an hour or so away from me. Are they respected like RS tuning when it comes to mapping?


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  9. not sure about how they are regarded recently..in the past,they havnt had a faultless reputation...but neither has RS Tuning.
    To be fair though,its definatly worth at least putting it on the dyno, to see if the engine is at least not dangerously mapped.These uploaded generic maps,can be really bad sometimes,if thats whats on it.
     
  10. well worth the trip to EFI, just saying

    I drive up from Plymouth
     

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