My new project R26

Discussion in 'Megane Projects' started by ianplymouth, Nov 30, 2020.

  1. Ive started a project thread to save cluttering up Ians thread.

    What manifold are you using with the borgwarner? I did consider going for a larger turbo on this but the power is absolutely ample as is.
     
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  2. That's going to be a weapon, i have thought about doing something similar but then the Clio turned up :laughing::laughing::laughing:
    Think i have gone the wrong way on this, Mk2, Mk3, Mk2 and then a Clio :laughing::laughing::laughing:


    I am going to use the standard manifold with an adapter i got from the USA, made my own it looked pants but its still on the car and working, nobody car see it :laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
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  3. Ive always fancied doing a clio mk3, should be good when done.

    I think ive seen the manifold adaptor plates for sale when browsing. Nothing wrong with home made though, if it works it works :grinning:
     
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  4. Bet it don't look as good as this though :weary::weary::weary:

    49739268558_6d6fa3b02a_k.jpg IMG_20200126_101955 by Ian Austin, on Flickr
     
  5. Well eventually my seats arrived, exactly the same as before, couldn't get an appointment at GSM for a age, so as i knew i liked these in the 225 and the 265, i ordered them again.

    Also fitted my roll cage looks way better in the car than it did sitting in the dining room for months.

    https://flic.kr/p/2mfvfEt

    https://flic.kr/p/2mfu8hC
     
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  6. Looks like they’ll be a lot better at holding you in place than the stock belts and trend lines :wink:
     
  7. I'm really hoping they do that better :laughing::laughing:
     
  8. Hi Ian,
    Your seats look great mate, any chance you could run me through the process of fitting them please bud?! I've got a Sparco seat, side mounts and base that I've had sitting in my spare room for well over a year, desperately want to fit it, but I'm reluctant to attempt it myself due to a total lack of knowledge. I'm guessing it's all straight forward apart from the electric/sensor side of things. Any advice, help, prodding in the right direction would be very much appreciated.
    Cheers, Si

    Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
     

  9. Hi Si
    First thing is to get your old seat out, keep the Torx bolts that hold the basses down, the wiring is tucked under the carpet that's where the plug is.
    Disconnecting the plug is either a pull out slide on one side or a push tag in the middle then its a pull..

    Best to fit the base first, then loosely fit the side mounts to the seat then offer the seat to the base, try and put a bolt in either side mount to see how it fits.
    my seats are XL if yours are standard then you might need the inner sets of holes.
    On my base i used the set of holes nearest the door, did try and use the inner ones but the seats were too tight to the centre console.
    Also will depend on what bases you have, the Jon Foss ones i have now were fine, the Ktec on my previous car i had to drill extra holes in the basses.

    I also use adjustable runners on mine as i like to change the driving position from road to track then back.

    Once you have the seat sort of in position, finger tighten the bolts and see what the driving position feels like, then make adjustments to suit your driving position.

    Thats about it really, it took me a good while to set them up first time, but as i have done this a few times now it is easier.

    If you have an error message on the dash after you have changed the seat, Beau on here can map it out, as i'm sure someone with Clip can.
     
  10. Thanks for getting back to me Ian, much appreciated! Final question......the infamous plug .......do I just wrap some electrical tape around it and "hope for the best"? If I get an error message does it affect anything, ie airbags, etc?

    Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
     
  11. All i did was push the plug back into the hole it came out of, didn't wrap it or anything.

    As for the Error message i'm sure it doesn't effect the air bags, if you get it mapped out, the light comes on as it should and then goes out so MOT guy will be happy.
     
  12. Excellent! Thank you for the help Ian, I'll attempt to do it this afternoon, if it ever stops raining!

    Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
     
  13. Well another trackday down the pan
    Did meet up with a few mates and had another thrash around in my old 265, so not totally wasted.

    Swapped over my wheels on Monday ready for the drive up to Thruxton and found this
    https://flic.kr/p/2mhL8vN

    Thought it felt a bit strange in the handling department, tried a temporary fix seemed to work for a few miles would have given it a bash on track.

    But on the way up the dreaded misfire reappeared after a hard blast to overtake someone, last time i had to replace the ECU, unplugging number 2 and 3 coil packs made things a bit worse but 1 and 4 really had an effect on the engine.

    So i replaced the plugs and coils on 2and 3, fired it up and it was exactly the same :rage::rage:

    Tried to clear the fault with my Icarsoft diagnostic tool, but kept on saying CAN bus error.

    I pulled the lid off of the fuse box and pulled the wires around, pushed a couple of plugs and low and behold the fault cleared and the engine lost its misfire.

    But in the mean time of doing all of this i sold the track space rather than loosing out on it as i thought it wouldn't work properly.

    When i have time this week i will have a look at the wiring and the fuse block.
     
  14. Fingers crossed you get to the bottom of it Ian!
     
  15. Might be worth trying another upc if the wiggle fixed it. It supplies power to the coils, i found this out when i tried to start the Kangoo up on the diesel upc and it did not have the required feed. They are plug and play, no coding required.

    The vibratechnics rear arm bushes are good too if you dont want to run powerflex rears. Spherical bearing designand allow the arm to move properly like oem.
     
  16. I am sure i have a UPC somewhere in the workshop, so will try that.

    Thanks for the heads up on the Vibratechnics will look at that, was thinking of rose joints as well.
     
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  17. A quick update.

    Pulled the engine out that i built as a temporary stop gap while i was trying to sort the forged lump.

    Well, i'm not too happy about the honed block, still has marks in the bore of 3 and 4 cylinders, the other two are acceptable just a slight dark patch on each.

    The engine i built up from parts had my 120k miles pistons and rods in, so i could still run with the map that was there.

    I have stripped the original block now and i will be dropping it down in the morning to a different company to rebore it, its that or try and buy another set of even bigger pistons.

    Had to buy another set of piston rings, took 3 weeks to get them as the others were damaged by the partial seizure.

    LeMans was going to be my next trackday, but that has now been moved to the following month, next is the Nurburgring which gives me enough time now to sort this out and maybe get a trackday or two in before the ring.
     
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