Megane R26/225 uprated fuel pump options

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Danith, May 13, 2017.

  1. Its no secret that the meg 2 suffers a bit with fuelling due to a basic fuel system.

    Also what doesnt help is that they're now 10+ years old so the oem pumps are probably feeling a bit tired now, especially with the strain if using larger injectors?

    So what are the tried and tested options for upgrading, or at least refreshing the standard tired fuel pump?

    Are the walbro ones ok? Bosch do one? Just replace with new oem? Ta
  2. Stock one is a Walbro.

    You can take the housing apart and upgrade the pump itself but you'll probably break it and it's a waste of time. I have had mine replaced recently with a brand new one and it's made a huge difference and paid for itself by increasing my mpg. Everything I read suggested an external pump, rewire, lots of money etc or stick with standard.

    I considered rebuilding my old pump and even bought one from a breaker to use while I built up the new one but couldn't be arsed in the end. I still have it and you can have it for free and if you want to have a go.

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    Danith likes this.
  3. Thanks mate I appreciate it. Just seen you're kent so would have to be posted and would only get damaged in the post, but I appreciate it. Thanks anwyay.

    Original are walbro?

    Don't suppose you have a link to the part you bought mate?

    I know a lad breaking one up here in Manchester so may give it a go if can get the housing off him and buy the pump itself. Or could just buy a drop in unit like you did
  4. @ewant81 is running dw65c, direct swap for standard pump, some are running walbro 255, again drop in pump

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  5. Dw65?
  6. 255 was the one I bought

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    Danith likes this.
  7. So that was just the pump and not the full drop in unit?
  8. Just the pump. Came from eBay. Housing contains pump, regulator, float, thing that looks like a tea strainer that's supposed to be a filter. The limiting factor appears to be the standard fuel rail which can apparently be upgraded with a 197 version from ktec. Leans out, boom, etc.

    If running big power it's a different matter however and the 250/265 pump is supposed to be a decent upgrade as can run more pressure

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  9. Yeah ive got the rail from a ph1 172 and I'm going to have a return line fitted.
    Thats a garage job though. For now I'm gonna see what improvement (if any) I get with a new pump.
  10. Be really interested to see a picture of the setup when you get that done.

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  11. Would recommend the dw65c pump, very quiet and is a direct fit. You don't need the installation kit, and if you buy one don't get the one with installation clips.

    Strongly advised to wire in a better electrical feed to the pump switched with a relay off the standard wiring. Most uprated pumps will pull more current and the standard wiring is fused inside the UPC. If you blow that you will not be happy!

    This won't solve the running lean on cylinder 1 issue, but will replace what could be a very tired OEM pump.

    If you want higher rail pressure then you need to change the fpr at the pump body and get a map. Or you can go down external pumps with swirl pots.

    Don't have to get a new fuel rail with return line for swirl pots, there is a swirl pot with external pump that is designed to work on a returnless system.

    The mk2 fuel system isn't too clever because the swirl pot in the intank fuel body is too small. To help avoid fuel surge, it's advisable when on track to not let the tank go below 1/2 full. Not a perfect solution, but it's the least you can do.

    Also, even if you uprate the fuel pump and fit a higher pressure fpr, you will still have fuel surge issues. They will probably be worse as you are potentially lifting more fuel!

    It's a bit of a pain in the arse on the mk2. The mk3 solved a lot of issues by having a better fuel tank and pump body that ran 5.5bar fuel pressure to the rail. At the rail it had a secondary fpr that was vacuum referenced. And to polish it all off, the mk3 fuel rail was fed from the centre rather than from cylinder 4 end.
    Last edited: May 15, 2017
  12. I'm going back to efi in two weeks so could uprate the fpr at the pump I guess? Mines only stg2 with 630s but getting it dropped to stg1 for engine longevity cos I'm a worrier
    Plan was to fit the ph1 172 rail and run a return - advised by someone on fb forum?

    For now, I have a td booked on bank hol and won't be going on with anything less than half a tank of vpower! 03749a91ee7405dbd195334e30ccc8ff.jpg
  13. But that price of that kit!!!

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  14. Yeah, that might work. Might still have fuel surge issue with the standard pump body but it would be a step up from what on the mk2.

    Trouble is finding a fpr that fits in the standard fuel body. The mk3 will fit if you machine down the tip a little, haven't tried it myself but there is a guy who has done it.
    Danith likes this.
  15. Yeah just seen that myself!

    Think I'm gonna go walbro
  16. I was put off the walbro as they have been know to be quite noisy. But my OEM pump was squealing like a bitch so I probably wouldn't have noticed!
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  17. My car isnt a track car really so Im thinking easy first step is just refresh the pump. When I do go on track its half tank or more only!
    Is pot luck tho, a lad I know absolutely batters his, on 140k now and has had fuel run out a few times and its still going strong on 300hp with std internals!!
    TomSladen likes this.
  18. Noisy is at least good feedback. :smile:
    rTEM likes this.
  19. Yeah walbro for now, and will be saving for the swirl pot, return rail, fpr and new lines.

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  20. By the time you got the rail, swirl pot, additional external pumps and fpr, fuel lines, wiring, you are well into some big money. Then you need to get it fitted and mapped. It gets expensive!

    Good luck though, the more people that do it the more knowledge we get on the best way [emoji846]
  21. It is big money. I was looking for a cheap solution but there is non. More pressure needs new lines(don't trust the standard lines) new pump fpr and a map.

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  22. Well I rang Renault - bastards won't give part numbers out!! I fancy the walbro but cba with the hard wiring thing.
    Renault want £378 for a replacement OEM setup!! £20 is a seal and £85 is a revised wiring loom. Safe to say I won't be doing that!!
  23. You can get the part numbers from the parts listings which are available on some web pages. There was a sticky on here somewhere that gave a page.

    Edit: it's a sticky on this forum section! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
  24. Fuel pump is not listed [emoji107]
  25. Ah, the standard pump is a Bosch unit anyways. I listed the parts numbers on another Turbo Renault related forum, hint hint. I had a good look online and I couldn't find it.

    Your options are limited, I would just buy aftermarket and take the hit.
    Danith and rTEM like this.
  26. Walbro it is then! Or these look ok and from a trusted supplier. Just asking if they do a megane one 24f95aeb9a51b1c143cc48ec6946779b.png
  27. The bosch requires no messing with hard wire etc? If so I'll just get one of those. Can't be arsed messing about, I'm only mapped on standard turbo
  28. Can you run a return into the standard housing?
  29. Pump housing? Yeah I got a carrier yesterday to have a look at and it does have a return pipe inlet. I got one off a ph1 as it supposedly has a bigger fpr but looks the same to me?

    8a7d19a497da95775f43309a9c74370c.jpg de85745d967f7bdfd4bf9282af1b691d.jpg
  30. Would it not be possible to run the clio 172 phase 1 pump housing with a 255 pump in there than a custom rail and fpr in the bay, that way you have a stronger pump, a return line and adjustable fuel pressure?
  31. I'm trying to get my head around it all mate. I'm an accountant not a mechanic so relying on knowledge of others!
    I've got the ph1 return rail. I'm gonna replace the pump with oem or walbro 255lph which is probs overkill. Then the ph1 rail with an uprated fpr (5bar) and a return line to the pump.

    But this is all from talking to others, none of it is my idea!
  32. Hi mate, how did you get on with replacing yours? You went for which model - and was it a straight swap? Keep hearing that replacing with aftermarket is a ballache and you need to hard wire - really cba with that, I'm not running a 400bhp monster so no point going overkill if it means more hassle/work!
  33. Good effort buddy I'm keen to hear the outcome of all this research . . .

    I'm running Stage 2 on a 100k+ engine and it never really occurred to me! I knew the fuelling was the limitations on the F4RT engines . . .

    I thought RS Tuning in Leeds would have come up with a solution by now!?
    Danith likes this.
  34. Yeah maybe its just forum talk thats all the rage at the mo but it makes sense. decent! Some engines are clearly just stronger than others but I like to improve my odds as much as poss
  35. I am using the dw65c, it's a direct swap for the standard OEM pump.

    I haven't been able to find anyone that stocks the OEM pump, and the chances are it's about the same cost.

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