Trying to boot the car after its warmed up and I get 50% power and consistent burbling from the exhaust as if I've red lined it. It drives completely fine otherwise. It did also die on idle once but restarted fine immediately but felt it cutting it so I held the revs at 1k (this only happened once). Available power is inconsistent, I get what I ask for say 1 in 5 times. Mapped, stage 2 by a reputable tuner 2 years ago. Plugs changed 20k miles ago by ktec so I presumed they were gapped but I have a new set coming. Any ideas? Will get some footage up tomorrow. Also heard it could be the actuator, injectors, throttle body, coil packs. Cheers. No check the lights or anything indicating there's something wrong.
could be number things as usual start with obvious and cheapest, vid will also be helpful plugs and gap coil brake down boost leak fuel pump injectors
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OWkrWjDdM9R5j1khKscR5StrUmjjI3dm/view?usp=drivesdk Here a link to it . More apparent when in sport mode - ESC off. The last pull was in normal.
Changed spark plugged and gapped to 0.5mm and now it's running as it did before. From they box, the plug are around somewhere inbetween 0.7mm - 0.8mm? Although not mentioned before, but it still pops and hesitates at redline in third gear WOT. I saw you were in the discussion with another member regarding this topic but it seems to be a characteristic of these mapped? That thread ended with tl:dr changed plugs and it sorted it.
base line with these is the more fuel you chuck in to cylinders (more tuned) the smaller plug gap need to be. Factory plug gap is wider and gives larger but weaker spark which can be 'blown out' with extra fuel smaller gap is smaller but stronger flame that still burns despite extra fuel. can go down to 0.4mm gap for even stronger spark
Just an update, the issue came back and it turned out to be the thermostat opening prematurely and not allowing the engine to reach operating temperature ,hence only allowing revs up to around 5k being reached and going limpy ( as if the engine was cold). I've since changed the thermostat, albeit to a Gates one as suppliers were out of stock and the problem is gone once the engine is warmed up. The image below shows both of the thermostats ( left = new, gates , right = old, presumably OEM,) after being submerged in boiling water and the old one closed very slowly.
