I have a very noticeable knocking going over speed bumps, cobblestone and the likes. I have checked all I could in the suspension both hanging free and under load. All seems nice and tight except for a small play when moving the wheel holding it at 3 and 9 positions. This tells me the track rod end has some play, but it is so small that it is hard to see, but relatively easy to feel moving the wheel compared to doing the same on the other side. Can this be the reason for knocking, as I have not been able to source anything else? Also the rear bushing in the suspension arm seems rather soft, especially compared the year front one. Can that be right? See video here: I feel the same softness on the side that does not give any knocking sounds. Only thing I haven't been able to push/wiggle or otherwise check for play is the top mount. Any way to test that except for replacing? Any chance I have a knocking from the obvious swivel or sway links, even though I cannot feel play by hand? Thanks!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Drop links? I had a slight knock. Changed the longer pair and it disappeared. I'm changing the shorter pair tomorrow. Refreshing slowly, start cheaper, low to high in value.
The passenger side assembly had been replaced by the dealer before I bought it, so I had planned on having the drivers side done too so both were new. It sorted the knock out.
Thanks. Should it come to that, is just just wheel, disc, hub carrier off. Lock ring out, press out bearing, press in new bearing. Assemble?
It's not quite that simple, but that's the gist of it. You may find that separating the lower wishbone balljoint is difficult. I've now started removing the lower cast bracket from the hub carrier and the ball joint (the one you're on about replacing - not the wishbone one) and leaving it attached to the wishbone in order to get the upright and hub carrier off. And then you can press out, or hammer out (lump hammer and a long bar required) the ball joint from the hub. Have the new one in the freezer ready and then it's contracted prior to fitment and easier to push in (can be done with just a vice) I've been meaning to write a guide for ages as I've been changing them for the last 3 years now.
Good info! Thanks mate. I'll replace the TRE early next week. Then go to the links and after that let Renault at it, as I have some warranty on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you've still got your 3 year Renault warranty then let them sort it, definitely. If not - an important one to check is the anti-rotation links (the links from wishbone to upright). If you've got knocking over cobbles, I had this and it was the anti-rotation links. Someone has recently posted a link on here for a site where they are much cheaper! I was paying £60 each from Renault, but these are a much better price.
This is a good diagram to show the setup. By anti-rotation link I'm on about number 4, but I'm sure you're already well aware of the setup.
Yup, saw the link. That is why, I wanted to try that and the away link myself. My warranty is from a shop a bit too far away compared to just trying the simple stuff myself Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It was the anti rotation link. No play in it before removal, but it was very loose when it came off. Still no direct play, but loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
