How to: clutch damper replacement/airbox removal/battery box

Hi all hope this is allowed, just wanted to document for any future readers my experience with replacing the clutch damper. I saw a few posts and people seem to make out like it's easy/obvious but as someone not mechanically inclinded it took a little bit of figuring out, and I couldn't find a comprehensive guide on the internet. If the image links go dead please try message me and I can re-upload elsewhere - I hate dead links on forums. Also if I give any incorrect advise or something is missing please add a comment or let me know - I certainly don't have expert knowledge and just want to help people.

Each step correlates to the image # in the gallery https://imgbox.com/g/TLT4Irk3Dn
1. Remove the battery cover (not shown), this clips on either side of the box. Then remove 2x 10mm on the battery connectors, finally the black battery strap with 2x 8mm. Also lift off the plastic ECU cover (which has a hose going into the front bumper, still in place in this picture)
2. Remove 2x 10mm ontop of the battery box to free-up the ECU bracket (you do not need to remove ECU from bracket). Once bracket is free, remove 3 ECU connections by gently unclipping the lever (tab visible on pic) and swing the light grey lever up/towards the ECU to loosen, don't pull these with force. I labelled top/middle/bottom and put them in a waterproof bag to protect the pins as it was raining.
3. Remove 3x 13mm bolts, and 1x 10mm from the battery box
4. Remove final 10mm connecting the battery box to the fuse box, your car will likely have 2x, mine only had 1 (thanks previous owner).
5. Remove 2x 10mm holding connector blocks(?) to battery box. You should now be able to lift this free of the box, at this point the box is free and can be removed gently. Be careful not to snag any cables
6. Remove hose from airbox by loosening jubilee clip with flathead and gently pull hose away, it may be easier to do this once the airbox is loose in the next step
7. Remove 10mm holding airbox on, this is the only real fixing for the airbox. There is a post at the bottom of the airbox that locates in a rubber recess which is roughly in the circled area, so pull gently towards you/up to remove.
8/9. These show the damper at the slave cylinder, there's a silver retaining clip visible, this needs to be removed to allow the old line to be removed, be careful as it isn't captive and will drop out in a hard to reach area (ask me how I know). To insert the new line put the clip fully back in place FIRST, then push the line home, you will feel it locate/click. I recommend doing this connection LAST, to allow fluid to fill the new line and reduce air in the system.
10. This shows the damper at the bulkhead, this also uses a clip shown in the circle, use a small flathead to prise it up towards you, once the clip is out the line should come out easily. Again to re-install insert the clip first. Before starting removing any lines I recommend topping up the brake fluid resevoir to make sure it doesn't run dry. I imagine holding the clutch with a piece of wood could also help stop any fluid coming out like it does with the brakes?

I did have some issues with my new line, I got the HEL one but it seemed one of the O rings was the wrong size - it would not locate no matter how much force I used, I took the O ring off the old damper and put it on the new one and it located perfectly and I've not had any leaks - hopefully you don't have this issue.

After the install there was definitely air in the clutch, I pumped the pedal repeatedly and it came back, then I left the clutch held down overnight with some wood as recommended by someone on here and have not had any problems. Don't forget to do a final check of fluids, and also check for leaks before you re-assemble.