GW 250

So after a decent amount of searching and a few missed opportunities, I secured a GW 250 Lux (I think...). Thanks to @jamesbeaumont spotting this on a facebook group and firing over a PM .

Spec wise,
Cup pack, vis pack, arkamys stereo, leather recaros and additions being KWV3s, Royal steering wheel trim, centre silencer removed and a map from "P Torque".

I was a little sceptical of the map as I couldn't find much info about the company or their reputation. However, it's been on the the for 5 years and on first impressions, it drives really nice. I may revisit the software at some point.




Slightly unfortunate number plate...

 

Yeah keyless. I've had a good search online but struggling to find model specs etc.

The coilovers are really compliant and ride well. Not had a chance to make them work a bit yet. They've also been on the car for 5 years.

 

Yeah seems that way. Hoping to pick up a RS Monitor for it at some point.

Ah ideal, I'll have a look for it.

 

Not too much planned for it at the moment other than some serviceables for peace of mind.

Titan SuperSyn, oil filter and some Elf Tranself NFP is in the post. New gearbox mount bolt also.

A random one, the silver model ID sticker on the driver door shut has been peeled off or cleaned with a strong enough chemical to remove the font. Can these be reissued from a dealer?

 

Around the 70mph area, I've noticed the faintest of whines which was the reason for ordering new transmission oil.

When I drained the oil it was filthy and possibly hasn't been done before. Passed through it with a magnet and found nothing. Fresh oil in and out for a test run and the noise seems to have gone. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

 

It was one of the easiest I've come across. The filling point is on the nearside of the gear box, behind the arch liner.

Yeah, the manual says 2.4l, but with mine flat on the ground it took a bit more before overflowing from the filling point.

 

There was one for sale on here, however I've got some other things I want to sort out that are more of a priority.

I'm interested in the possibility of coding it in though? What's required?

 

Couple of other little bits tidied up on the car over the last week. Steering wheel was needing a clean to try and bring the alcantara back up, used a suede shoe cleaner and a brush, turned out okay. 50/50 pic.


Also cleaned up and dyed the worn bits on the drivers side outer bolster. Quite pleased with the results. Before and after.



Got Mintex 1144s and ATE typ200 coming this week too. Hopefully have the oil and filter, gearbox bolt and brakes sorted by the friday.

 

The scratch doctor leather colourant.

Passed on to me from a mate. Used a tiny amount on a sponge and dabbed it on.

 

Been at a few little things over the last week. Mintex 1144's arrived from RTR, their service is superb, can't fault it. Got them fitted and bed in.


Picked up a BMC panel filter from ECP, who were the cheapest around surprisingly.


New mats and thermostat from RPD arrived yesterday. Car doesn't seem to be getting up to working temp.

 

Agreed, £36 I think they were. The same carpets with "Renaultsport" in red were over £70.

 

I had been keeping my eye on it, then went for a drive over the Dukes Pass at Aberfoyle and it was only past the 1st mark on gauge when I got to the other side. Defo not right.

 

ECP Part no: 909740171
BMC Part no: FB57520

I used the recent "sale60" code. However, I've just had a look online and its not being listed on their website.

 

Finally set aside time to rebuild the gearbox. It got quite bad in the end, very noisy in 3rd and 4th.

Sourced bearings from onestopgearboxshop after being recommended in another thread. All 8 bearings, 2 diff seals, input shaft seal and 2 plastic oil baffles.



The Renault workshop manuals are really handy to have up on a screen for reference. Also got a hold of a PK5 gearbox workshop manual, which has been helpful, seems very similar to the PK4.

I bought a collet style blind hole puller and a 3 leg internal puller, both with slide hammers. Fairly cheap ebay chinese made things. But for what they cost, they've worked well.

Outer casing bearing races weren't easy to remove, had to modify one of the collet pullers to get a hold. Bit of heat with a heat gun and they started to move. Diff race punched out no bother. I've marked and individuallly boxed each removed race, related shim and new bearing to keep myself right, hopefully save any confusion when it comes to reassembly.

The bell housing side was easier, 3 leg puller got under 3 of the races and removed them, again with some heat. Input shaft race was punched out.





As expected, the bearings on the short secondary shaft, where 3rd and 4th are mounted were in a state.



And further bad news, damage to the 4th gear assembly where the hub engages the gear.



Thats as far as I've got. Hopefully change the other 7 bearings tomorrow which will leave the 4th gear assembly and outer bearing to swap.

Do I replace the slave cyl while I'm here?

 

I suspect the damage to 4th has led to bits of metal being suspended in the oil and damaged the bearings.

A pic of the magnet...



Lock ring/circlips on the end of the shafts were a pig to remove. But got all the bearings off the shafts and diff today. Need to get on to RPD tomorrow.

 

New 4th gear, the associated roller bearing and lock ring arrived quicker than expected.

Shaft split down fairly easy. Reverse hub off, reverse gear assembly and bearing off. Then pulled the reverse gear support ring and 4th off as one. Checked the synchro which was fine, new 4th and new bearing on and then pressed the washer and reverse gear support ring back on. Reverse assembly and bearing on followed by pressing the reverse hub on.

Then it started on replacing the bearings. Seven on, one to go. Then get the races fitted.

 

Finally finished the gearbox rebuild. Managed to use the press to fit all the races to the casing which was a result.

Reassembly is fairly straight forward, just took my time making sure the gear selector setup operated as expected.

Used the engine crane to sling the box into place and got it back on its mounts. Then it was just a case of putting the rest of the car back together.

Thanks to @ianplymouth and @Barnett for answering a couple of questions towards the end of the job.

Covered about 110miles so far, taking things relatively easy for now. Everything feels smooth and no odd noises.

 

I've given a mate a hand fitting a LSD to a Honda NPQ3 box but that's the extent of my car gearbox experience. I'm a marine eng to trade though.

 

Car has covered around 3000 miles since the gearbox was rebuilt and it's still running good.

I found there were two driveshaft spacers fitted to the car when I was stripping it for the gearbox repair. I've decided not to run them and lift the coilovers up a little. The lack of thread engagement with the hub nut and shaft didn't fill me with confidence.

However, in true Renault fashion, she has delivered another issue. A worn lower ball joint on the nearside, its been squeaking like mad and wandering all over the road under acceleration. After reading the positive feedback about the heavy duty version supplied on here by another forum member, I've ordered 4 new ones.

At least now I've got a press to do them...