So does any one know the costs? engine dynamics is 2.3k for a forged engine. any one know the cost from RS Tuning, BTM, Mark Black even. Nearing on 70k now and still no belt change so might as well go the full way.
Think mark blacks a bit cheaper than that mate. Was speaking to him Saturday. I'd get in touch with him
This is a good point. Are you just wanting rods and pistons or you wanting valves and cams also. Then there's clutches and flywheels and diffs etc etc. best thing to do is talk to a pro and tell them what you're looking for and they'll advise you
It would be an interesting read if someone knew the rough figures for the main options, such as rid and pistons, cams and valves, balanced bottom end etc.
All it will have is hybrid and injectors. Don't want silly power just a nice 300+ build which is rods pistons hybrid, injectors clutch.
Yeah Kieron's right. Be good of someone knew the figures. I definitely know you're looking at around £2000-£2200 for pistons and rods with mark black as I asked.
You don't really need a forged engine for that level of power IMO. I've been running 300~bhp on standard internals for 2yrs / 40K miles with no issues it's all down to how you look after them, keep up regular oil changes and warm up / cool down correctly.
I drive my megane hard so i'd rather be safe than ending up with a rod through the block which means more expense. What torque you at Gray as thats what kills them isnt it? I'd rather be able to put a bigger turbo on at a later date if i so wish too. i already have, decat, 3"system, cooling mods (oil + rad + Intercooler) @ stage1
Mine has run in excess of 300bhp & 330ftlb for over 3 years with no issues. It has been driven hard & seen some track action. As Kieron says its how you look after them. Lee
My car was also track a lot with 300+ HP and 320 torque.Not a single problem .I'm on forged angine now tought.
I completely disagree with its how you look after them statement. I have heard evidence that engines that were 6000mi old in perfect working order bent rods. The big torque push at low revs tends to kill the rods ( bananas them ) It tends to happen north of 330ftib , but 300 is considered "safe"
So how come mine ran over 355ftlb then for best part of a year when other cars can't handle 300ftlb. My car is always warmed up & cooled down, also it's serviced every 6months using quality oil (not elf). lee
Serviced yes But warmed up & cooled down properly ? A good few that have gone bang have been in the first 15 minutes of driving. It may have some degree of luck but then search through the amount of posts asking why their rev limiter is cutting in at the low limiter mark & what does that tell you. When I had an oil temp gauge in mine it took 25mins of steady off boost driving to get the oil temp up to 90 degrees. One of the first rules is dont hammer your engine until it is up to running temps. My car was used for development work by Rs tuning for 4 years so I would have thought mine would have been one of the first to go bang. When I bought my car it had 9k miles on it. 2 days later it had a Rs tuning stage 1 map. It has since had stage 2, then stage 2 with injectors then stage 3. It has now covered 80k miles. Lee
last year i did 9 track days. and 20k miles so i'd like to make the engine a bit safer. its starting to loose power on what it was. It was over boosting at 21psi at some points not only 18. So i'd like to just give it a full refresh and just use it as a toy as i'll use the abarth day to day now
It was Pauls engine that let go at low miles. 360ftib IIRC. I also dont think that warming oil is going to radically change the viscosity and lubricating properties to allow the pistons to magically slide up and down with a hugely reduced friction. The amount of torque is the same irrelevant of warm , or cool engine. Whilst I agree that abuse of an engine is not going to help life I strongly link the high torque at lower revs being the cause for bending the rods. The 250/265 engine is a lower comp , bigger volume head and larger turbo. That copes with the larger torque fine.
The conrods are also stronger on a 250 engine. A cold engine will make more torque as there is no real heat soak as such due to all the components being cold. Paul's did go bang with low miles & within 15 mins of his house. A few others have gone bang whilst still relatively cold (lyjoes) was another & I think gavs was too from memory. I'm not saying the cold is the cause but I would say it is a contributing factor. Another that was discussed was that ph1 & ph2 conrods came from different sources as they have different part numbers. Another was that the oem turbo makes more torque below 3k revs in comparison to the hybrid. There are so many variants & arguments. Lee
Agreed Lee on the varients. Its a minefield. Until they are isolated though its surely best not to say that >300ibft wont break your engine. Pushing the torque higher up the rev range defiantly seems to help
Still would be nice to have a take with approximate costs, Paul did give me a spreadsheet but it made no sense to me as there isn't enough information on the possible upgrade path.
Rs tuning charge approx 4k as a drive in drive out service. That's with a fully re-built re-bored engine, cat cams rods, cp pistons, arp rod bolts, acl shells. Everything in the engine is brand new. The head is also re-built. Lee
Costs are hard to approximate as it depends on engine spec. my engine cost £5700, but that included helix kit, high lift cams and a donor engine, as mine also went bang when cold.
