250 Faulty DRL LED Strip

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by JamieUK, May 30, 2015.

  1. I've noticed that the passenger side DRL Strip on the bumper isn't as it should be. It seems to be dimmer than the driver's side and one of the 3 lights isn't working. Is it possible to replace the LEDs that are housed inside the lighting case and if so is it an easy clip off the front and remove job?

    Thanks.
    Jamie
     
  2. You just replace the whole drl unit. Might be a bumper off job
     
  3. The DRL units ate sealed and cone as a complete unit. It is a bumper off job as they are held in place by two bolts at the back.
     
  4. MicKPM

    MicKPM RSM Trader RSM Trader

    It can be done without removing the bumper, as said above... X2 10mm nuts hold them on. Replace the complete DRL unit, not the controller as they get moisture inside them which causes them to go dim or just shut off.

    Wheel off, arch liner out and enjoy working in a tight space. Will take you all of 10mins a side. The worst part is working out how the multiplug fits thru the small gap.
     
  5. Thanks for the replies... I've fired an email off to Renault to see if they're open to doing anything-it's my 3rd Renaultsport so am hoping they may be amenable. I've only had the car a few weeks and the warranty provided doesn't include lights... :| I'm not keen on going back to the guy I bought off as I think the Clio197 I traded in was potentially a money pit and he gave me a v v good part-ex price...!

    If I can't get anything from Renault then opening them up will be next (thanks for the link). Looks like these LEDS are the ones used.
     
    Relkz likes this.
  6. he used 3W LED's, yes, but the original ones aren't necessarily 3W (he's not using the OEM power supply, and the photo shows the LEDs wired in series whereas they originally are wired in parallel).

    The OEM light is rated for combined wattage of 6,5W, but what each LED is rated at, I don't know. Without being able to figure out what the originals were, it may be hard to get the two lights to match without exchanging the LED's in both. On the other hand you may be able to identify their type when opening it up (or post photos, maybe the community can help - I have a set of brand new lights for mine here, so isnt't going to open them up just yet ;-)..

    By the way, note that the facelift cars use a light with more than 3 LEDs (6?), so they will be smaller...
     
  7. Mine was like this for months, dimmer than the other. Exact same side to haha. The other day it totally clonked out on me. Can wait to be changed though as I just got whole set of new tyres and waiting on swivel hub bearings to come in to be fitted. Sure I was quoted like 280 quid from Rentec to replace it and they said it was a bumper off job. Unit itself was around the 220 mark I think (for some LEDs!!!)
     
  8. I can confirm I followed the instructions and rebuilt mine to change the colour of my LEDs. The LED driver/power supply is designed to provide the fixed amperage and voltage. I contacted Ahmed back then and he said putting 3W is a better option as it totals up to 9W and the original system uses less and hence the OEM power supply will under-drive the LEDs. As a result of this i've noticed my new LEDs generate much less heat on the back heatsink.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2015
  9. Also, i was told that the original LED is wired in parallel and each LED is given 3.2V and the LED's share a set constant amperage. So by uprating the LED's you are not actually drawing more because the LED driver SHOULD be made to provide a certain preset constant current which is below the higher LED. So its better to go higher than lower. What made me change out my LED's is because one side also failed. My theory is that the originals are being over-driven. I think they should have maybe used higher rated LED's and under-powered them slightly. I did a heat test on my original one that was still working before dismantling it and it used to get worryingly hot. New ones don't get nowhere near as hot.
     
  10. Thanks for the info James. Was it a ballache to do? I've ordered 10 replacement LEDs expecting to replace both sides. Will make sure I have all I need (think I should be getting some replacement rivets? Plus a soldering iron & solder? Is there anything else?), put the car on axle stands and do it over a weekend.
     
  11. madmax

    madmax Events Coordinator

    Check if it has had the drl upgrade fitted
    there was a set for sale on Ms a few years ago I had 2 sets go wrong on mine so just removed the upgrade then it was fine
     
  12. Don't forget High Thermal Heatsink Compound Glue and some heavy duty flexible glue to re-seal it up. I used the black heavy duty body kit glue. Make sure you apply that properly so there's no air gaps otherwise you will get condensation build up inside the lens. Take your time, make sure you have plenty of time for the task as it's very delicate.

    I think something about first ones had issues with diodes or something, but i was told it was re-designed and I have new new version without issues. My one side failed way before the mod
     
  13. Any way you can switch on the DRL's without starting the engine just to test them?

    Mine are integrated into the headlamp units, and I think they go off when you turn the sidelights/headlights on from the switch on the stalk
     
  14. Sorry to dig an old thread but does anyone know exactly what bulbs where used in this
     

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