Factory dash mounted tweeters - disconnect?

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by Jonty265Cup, May 6, 2024.

  1. Anyone know how the factory dash mounted tweeters are wired in? (2013 265 with Arkamys upgrade)

    A previous owner has upgraded the front door speakers to Pioneer TS-G1320F 2-way coaxials but has left the original factory tweeters working. Anyone know if there is a low-pass filter in the original wiring somewhere that means the coaxials are just doing mid and bass and the treble is all going to the tweeters?

    Wondering if I'm getting double treble or just suffering from the Pioneers + factory tweeters not being a set .. either way, I'm pretty sure that taking the factory tweeters out of the equation and lettering the Pioneers handle the full range will improve things.

    Any tips gratefully recieved.
     
  2. The low pass filter is usually built into the tweeter, the grill/ tweeter are clipped in so should be able to be prised off carefully, and the just unplugged from the loom.
     
  3. I believe that the high pass is a simple capacitor on the tweeter so you'll currently be getting double treble. See if you can unplug the tweeters to see if it prefer the sound from the Pioneer tweeters only.
     
  4. Perfect, thank you both! Managed to get the cover off but the tweeters themselves looked to be rivetted in. Will try to remove and unplug when I get some time.

    @FreakyKiwi did you get the Infinities for the front? Happy with them?
     
  5. Lol, of course they are riveted in.

    I'm happy enough with the Infinity coaxials but the factory grills do block a lot of the treble and I'm wondering if I should have gone for components.
    I didn't go down that path as the factory tweeter locations look very bad so I'd want to mount them to the A pillar trim.
    At this stage I can't be be bothered with wiring them in along with fitting a crossover somewhere.

    The next upgrade would be a subwoofer if I can be bothered
    I spent a small fortune on the system in my last car and still wasn't happy with it so trying not to start down that path with this car.
    A car is not an ideal environment for high quality audio, and certainly not this one.

    The speaker install has been a complete PITA.
    I found that both door handles were broken and had been badly repaired with some random screws and brackets. New handles were ordered from AliExoress and fitted.
    Most of the door clips broke and needed replacing. (AliExpress to the rescue again)
    The cage nut for the top passenger handle bolt broke when I reinstalled the door card so I needed to remove it again, remove the speaker to vacuum the broken clips out of the door, and drill and rivet in an alternative cage nut

    Now I need to remove the drivers door card again as I think the speaker terminals are shorting on the door metal which is causing the speakers to cut out randomly.

    I also need to remove the stereo again as the radio keeps losing signal which I think is due to the switched power source I used for the antenna adapter.

    I've done all of this dozens of times on other cars but this car is fighting me.
     
  6. Had another poke around .. the tweeter units are kinda riveted together but then just held in with spring clips .. so took about 30secs to remove and disconnect them. Unfortunately disconnecting them didn’t really help the overall sound imo .. it just lost a lot of upper mid and treble making the sound pretty dull and devoid of any soundstage

    But it seems only on of the doors has a pioneer in it, the other one still has the original speaker .. so it’s all a bit of a mess / no wonder it sounds awful

    I’ll come up with a plan and report back at some point.
     
  7. My car still had the original (standard dual cone) speakers with the passenger side speaker seized and not producing bass.
    After my fight with the passenger door card, and with the need for adapters, I can understand why someone would only replace one speaker if they only wanted it to work at some level.

    Let me know what you decide to do.
    The coaxial speakers are an easy install and have proper alignment of all frequencies, but treble is blocked by the door grill, and by the driver and passenger.

    Components provide better clarity with the tweeters unobstructed but alignment is terrible with the tweeters off axis and much closer than the woofers in the factory location (sound is also bounced off the window).
    This can produce a "soundstage" by stuffing up the timing of the different frequencies reaching your ears.

    In my reading the recommended placement for component tweeters is at the front of the dash (near the windscreen) focussed between the seats.
    My car is not a quiet place to be so I don't see the point.
     
  8. My current thinking is to go for Focal ASE-130 components to replace the factory tweeters and the driver factory woofer + passengers aftermarket Pioneer coaxial. I'm favoring the Focals because...
    - they look like good value for money .. a bit more than the Infinity coaxials but way way cheaper than things like the Audison APK130 or Focal ISREN kits
    - looks like they should fit well ... based on the tweeter diameter and woofer depth measurments in this thread they should be good .. and I'm hoping I can remove the factory tweeter covers and have the Focals in their supplied frames sat nicely in the dash cutouts (vs the Hertz Uno K 130 or DSK130.3 Dieci kits where the tweeters look too small)

    Hopefully it's possible to intercept the existing speaker wire in the dash cheek as it heads from the HU to the door .. that way I should be able to 'splice' the crossover in there to avoid running new wires to or from the door, just drop the new tweeter wire down through the dash to the crossover and mount the crossover in the dash cheek like @TheHood has here.
    focal.jpg

    Going for components over coaxials as a bit of future-proofing incase I get the time / money / inclination to add an amp and a sub .. but to your point @FreakyKiwi I'm hoping for an improvement but not expecting audiophile quality.

    If anyone has done this already .. please share any tips or suggestions or problems.
     
  9. I'm unsure where or how the speaker wires to the tweeters and doors are split, although I don't think it is at a point that can be accessed from the side cheeks. I went for components that could have the door speakers connected directly to the signal with no crossover because I didn't think it was worth the effort of messing with the loom for the level of kit I was using. The " crossovers" in the cheeks of my dash are actually high pass filters that prevent the tweeters being blown up by bass.

    If you do want to use those Focals you won't cause any harm not using the crossover to the LF to try them, although there is a chance the sound will be uneven in the upper mid range.
     
  10. I was tempted by the Focals and use French speakers in the French car.
    I have read that Focals have bright/harsh treble and that the cheaper models are actually made in China.

    I'm not sure where the wires split to the woofers and tweeter to simplify crossover installation, or where you can intercept the woofer wire to install the crossover and run a new cable to the tweeter.

    The easiest solution is to use a component set which only uses a capacitor on the tweeter as a simple high pass filter and use the factory wiring.
     
  11. autronix

    autronix RSM Club Member

    .... I have 3 Reault`s

    2011 Clio
    2011 Meg III (Arkamys system)
    2016 Meg III (Bose system)

    ... none of these care cars have a single tweeter working (back of front) ... I woder if are connected

    ... is this a common issue in Renault?
     

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