F1 won’t start!

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Meganehan, Jan 16, 2018.

  1. hi just had a long run in my f1, was actually going to a garage to get a new door lock fitted, but as I went to bring the car into the garage it didn’t start, ignition lights came on but it was just dead, it had this problem ages ago but it eventually just started and it’s been fine since today! The fan was still on even when I took the key out? I’ve had to leave my car at the garage and I don’t really know if they know what they are looking at.. could it be battery as id just been out in it?
     
  2. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Did you try a bump start? If so did it fire up?
    If you can get it running either that way or with a jump pack test the voltage accross terminals while the engine is running to check alternator, should be somewhere around 14V, sounds like it may not have been charging!? I may be wrong but worth a try! Did you have any other electrics failing on the journey? Windows going slower than usual etc?
     
  3. What does the battery voltage read ? That will tell you whats happening.
     
  4. To be honest i had to just leave it with them as it was getting late, all they done in the time they had was plug a computer thing onto it to check for codes but there was nothing, on the dash it was saying ‘select neutral’, or something but it was in neutral.. then ‘steering locked’, the car was running fine upto this no other problems. The garage recons it’s a wiring problem but didn’t know where to look, fingers crossed it’s simple!
     
  5. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Definitely sounds like flat battery to me.
     
  6. I hope it is that simple, but why would it go so flat just like that, could it be sometime causing it or just as simple as the battery’s knackered and just get a new one?
     
  7. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Could definitely be the battery at this time of year, or worst case the alternator not putting out.

    If you have access to a voltmeter or drop tester you can check your battery output, as Mikey4410 said.

    If this is low (pretty sure it is) you may need a new battery, but before spending the dollar on one I would then test the alternator output, should be around 14V whilst running.
    Thats just to single out if the alternator is the cause (hopefully not)
    Pretty sure you could get the garage to check it for you it will only take them 5 mins!
    Hope this helps!
     
  8. Ok thanks for your help, il ring the garage later on to see how they are getting on and let them know about testing the battery and alternator but hopefully they should know this anyway.. cheers!
     
    Big Uno likes this.
  9. Battery. Mine did exactly the same thing 2 weeks ago.

    Kept asking for neutral and could hear the steering lock trying to unlock.

    Full charge and its been fine since.
     
    Big Uno likes this.
  10. Worth getting the alternator tested further as well.

    The diode packs in them can die off and actually draw current from the battery when the car is parked.

    Very easy to test with a multimeter that has a diode test option.
     
    Big Uno likes this.
  11. I’ve picked it up from the garage now as he done sumthing with it, I’m not mechanically minded but he said it’s some thing to do with a wire between the battery and the ecu not connecting properly or sumthing, he was pointing to a white wire on the battery? It’s been starting fine since I picked it up, but I’m getting a friend to test the alternator and the battery at some point anyway..
     
  12. He's probably messed about with an earth wire or something.
     

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