Engine Removal Megane 225 F1

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Jukidam, Dec 28, 2019.

  1. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    sounds like a plan
  2. I have a phase and don't have them. Thanks for the link.

    But I'm here for another problem. Got the fuel pump out but doesn't know how to get the plastic ring at the ground out (marked in picture) someone have a idea?

    Till now I doesn't break anything :tearsofjoy:

    IMG_20200417_162011.jpg IMG_20200417_160837.jpg
  3. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Was wondering how long it would be before you ask :laughing::laughing:

    First of all, you have to unlock the silver pins on the side, get a small screwdriver in and do one, then hold it away from the latch so it doesn't lock back in.
    Then do the same for the other one.

    Sure the pump comes out fro the top then, be careful of the fuel hose, they can be a bit brittle.
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  4. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    My 225 phase 1 had those bits of plastic
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  5. :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:okay, I thought it would be from down. Will do it from above. Thanks

    Strange will try to get some from a broken car :grimacing:
  6. I don't get it how it should came out from the front? It's one plastic unit.

    IMG_20200417_165524.jpg IMG_20200417_165521.jpg
  7. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    If you can get a spare it would be good, they are getting a bit brittle due to age now, so take care and you should be okay.

    So you are having a go fitting the new pump then ???
    I'm sure the pump sits in a fitting in the bottom just wobble the pump side to side gently as you pull.
  8. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    sorry yes, you need to remove the bottom bit, need to gently ease those little clips (4 of them) away from the lighter coloured part, best try and slide a match stick down to hold the clip out, you will need to do this for at least 2 of them.

    Sorry it's been about 5 year ago i did this and i'm getting old :pensive:
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  9. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    be aware that there is still some fuel in there, so don't do this over the kitchen table or your phone ‍♂️
    Jukidam likes this.
  10. But the pump couldn't fit this hole to get it out

    Do you mean I should get the plastic ring as I marked out with wobbling ?

    Sorry but I doesn't understand
  11. Okay now I understand, thank you a lot :grin:

    But if you remember there is no theard so I can just get it down doesn't need to screw or?
  12. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    No i'm sure it just those clips that hold the base on
  13. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    you might have to twist it slightly, its not a screw thread, might be just a latch.

    My memory is bad sorry.
    Jukidam likes this.
  14. No problem, you help me alot

    Got it off, broke it a little bit but not dramatically

    New pump is inside just need to fit the whole unit

    I don't think my unit is a original one

    But will post more pictures if everything is done :grin:
    ianplymouth likes this.
  15. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I used the original wires to the old pump, they were fine never had a problem they just pull off (gently) :laughing:

    Think i had to trim a very small amount off of the pump body where it fits in the base.
    Jukidam likes this.
  16. I fit it plug and play now and it runs great.

    Let it run for 5 minutes and Rev it to 2000, no leakage.
    Maybe it's a bit louder but who cares :tearsofjoy:

    So I think the job is done.
    I will give it a try later, need some fresh air :tearsofjoy:
  17. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    well done mate
    good days work
    glad you have now sorted it
    that valve held in with the two screws

    That is the one you need to replace with the 5 bar valve if or when you go for the 250 fuel rail.
    Jukidam and Agreen like this.
  18. That's great to see Ian!

    I'm going to revisit the fuel upgrade once things start to reopen. I may get a spare manifold to fit the new rail onto as I believe theres some minor adjustments that need to be made.

    No point in going all out on it because the map will need adjusting immediately and that's not happening soon.
  19. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    You can do this upgrade in preparation for 630 injectors, it's got to be a must on a mapped R26 or 225, even if your not running anywhere near the standard injector max.
    The fuel rail is more a problem as the bore is small and number one cylinder doesn't get it full fuel volume or pressure.

    A 250 fuel rail just needs one tag moving, the fuel supply pipe will fit by just un-clipping the pipe, fit the 5 bar tank valve and remove the pipe from the small intake manifold.
  20. The problem is, with the mapping being already done with the 630s etc, this set up runs the risk of being massively rich until it's tweaked!

    Chris said it would be okay to drive to him (40miles all motorway), but other than that you run the risk of damaging something!

    I've got the rail and the fpr valve, need to get a pump and relief valve and I think that's it.
  21. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    If you already have 630's mapped in, then do the rest and just don't connect the little pipe from the 3.5bar regulator to the manifold.
    Then when you have a map tweak they can reconnect the pipe to give you the raising rate fuel system.
  22. Isn't the regulator integral to the rail though? How would you bypass the regulator and get the fuel in?
  23. Okay so I'm looking at the rail and I've realised I'm going to need a clip to hold the regulator in place!

    But I'm a little confused as to how it all fits!

    Attached Files:

  24. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Is that what you have bought ??? if it is, then its all there, the clip is already there holding the valve in.

    If so then its easy, remove the clip on the big round bit, pull the regulator out, remove the small "O" ring on the end of the regulator, push it back in and refit the clip.

    Leave the stub on the regulator open, eventually you will need to make a fitting in the inlet manifold to connect to the valve, when you then get to have it tweaked at the mappers you just need to connect a pipe to the valve and your fitting on the inlet manifold.
  25. Sorry no, I've just popped the regulator in, the clip isn't there so I'll have to source one from somewhere!

    So if i remove the O ring I'm effectively disabling the regulator? So i could set it all up and run it like that until mapping?

    The top of the regulator needs to tap into manifold somewhere then? Have you got a photo of the system on a 250 so I can reference from that? Cheers for the help as usual!
  26. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    yes and it will run 3.5 bar fuel till you connect the little pipe at the mappers.

    You can see the rail and pipe on here

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  27. That's great!

    I notice a few differences with the 250 manifold. I'm going to have to tap into mine with a fitting then, shouldn't be too difficult!
  28. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    that's the only problem, the mk2 doesn't have the fitting,
    sure you can bodge something :laughing::laughing::laughing:
  29. Professional bodging has become a new skill of mine. :grin:
    ianplymouth likes this.
  30. Test it 50 km now and it drives awesome.
    And doesn't smell like gas or anything :grin:

    For first I don't want the 250 rail, my Setup should be good enough for my safe 300hp I'm looking for :grin:

    Need to test if the cold start is better now.

    I guess there was a chinese pump inside because there is nothing written on it and on the big plastic nut is no OEM number but another brand name. So it's his second and now third pump :sweatsmile: minimum.

    IMG_20200417_191026.jpg IMG_20200417_191025.jpg IMG_20200417_191022.jpg IMG_20200417_191039.jpg IMG_20200417_191045.jpg IMG_20200417_173418.jpg

    I have taken some good pictures and will make a guide for the rest =)
    ianplymouth likes this.
  31. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    That's great news mate, this is better than the standard, if it did have a Chinese pump in there it should be a higher and better flow rate now, if it was a Renault one there should part number on it.

    Let us know how the cold start goes
    Jukidam likes this.
  32. I will :grin:
  33. Any idea where I can get this valve?

    As far as I'm aware, I now only need the pump and this valve? Not sure if there's a separate relief valve too?

    All my searches seem to just bring up the fpr at the rail.
  34. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I got mine from ebay, i think i still have a spare one, the end of the one that fits in the fuel tank needs to be turned down, for some reason Renault decided that there's had to be slightly different to everyone else.
    Think it has to be turned down from 8mm to 6.7mm will have to check though.
  35. To keep Y'all updated. The cold start is now much better. So it was really because the fuel pump.

    I just doesn't do a great job as I thought because my tank was full but the gauge show a level of 3/4 so I do something wrong or the pump is not in a good direction. Will find it out over weekend

    1000 km are driven now and everything still fine, oil consumption was about 300 to 350 ml. Thats okay I think.
    ianplymouth likes this.
  36. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    good that the starting issue is solved
    the housing and the tank have a locating lug you must have not located it properly, of you have a wire or something catching the float.

    But well done none the less :laughing::laughing:
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  37. Good stuff!

    Really jealous of your 1k km travels!!!!
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  38. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I thought i wouldn't mention it, as i bet he thinks its essential travel :laughing::laughing:
    Jukidam likes this.
  39. Sounds essential to me :kissingclosed:
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