Engine Removal Megane 225 F1

sounds like a plan

 

Was wondering how long it would be before you ask

First of all, you have to unlock the silver pins on the side, get a small screwdriver in and do one, then hold it away from the latch so it doesn't lock back in.
Then do the same for the other one.

Sure the pump comes out fro the top then, be careful of the fuel hose, they can be a bit brittle.

 

My 225 phase 1 had those bits of plastic

 

If you can get a spare it would be good, they are getting a bit brittle due to age now, so take care and you should be okay.

So you are having a go fitting the new pump then ???
I'm sure the pump sits in a fitting in the bottom just wobble the pump side to side gently as you pull.

 

sorry yes, you need to remove the bottom bit, need to gently ease those little clips (4 of them) away from the lighter coloured part, best try and slide a match stick down to hold the clip out, you will need to do this for at least 2 of them.

Sorry it's been about 5 year ago i did this and i'm getting old

 

be aware that there is still some fuel in there, so don't do this over the kitchen table or your phone ‍♂️

 

No i'm sure it just those clips that hold the base on

 

you might have to twist it slightly, its not a screw thread, might be just a latch.

My memory is bad sorry.

 

I used the original wires to the old pump, they were fine never had a problem they just pull off (gently)

Think i had to trim a very small amount off of the pump body where it fits in the base.

 

well done mate
good days work
glad you have now sorted it
that valve held in with the two screws


That is the one you need to replace with the 5 bar valve if or when you go for the 250 fuel rail.

 

That's great to see Ian!

I'm going to revisit the fuel upgrade once things start to reopen. I may get a spare manifold to fit the new rail onto as I believe theres some minor adjustments that need to be made.

No point in going all out on it because the map will need adjusting immediately and that's not happening soon.

 

You can do this upgrade in preparation for 630 injectors, it's got to be a must on a mapped R26 or 225, even if your not running anywhere near the standard injector max.
The fuel rail is more a problem as the bore is small and number one cylinder doesn't get it full fuel volume or pressure.

A 250 fuel rail just needs one tag moving, the fuel supply pipe will fit by just un-clipping the pipe, fit the 5 bar tank valve and remove the pipe from the small intake manifold.

 

The problem is, with the mapping being already done with the 630s etc, this set up runs the risk of being massively rich until it's tweaked!

Chris said it would be okay to drive to him (40miles all motorway), but other than that you run the risk of damaging something!

I've got the rail and the fpr valve, need to get a pump and relief valve and I think that's it.

 

If you already have 630's mapped in, then do the rest and just don't connect the little pipe from the 3.5bar regulator to the manifold.
Then when you have a map tweak they can reconnect the pipe to give you the raising rate fuel system.

 

Isn't the regulator integral to the rail though? How would you bypass the regulator and get the fuel in?

 

Okay so I'm looking at the rail and I've realised I'm going to need a clip to hold the regulator in place!

But I'm a little confused as to how it all fits!

 

Is that what you have bought ??? if it is, then its all there, the clip is already there holding the valve in.

If so then its easy, remove the clip on the big round bit, pull the regulator out, remove the small "O" ring on the end of the regulator, push it back in and refit the clip.

Leave the stub on the regulator open, eventually you will need to make a fitting in the inlet manifold to connect to the valve, when you then get to have it tweaked at the mappers you just need to connect a pipe to the valve and your fitting on the inlet manifold.

 

Sorry no, I've just popped the regulator in, the clip isn't there so I'll have to source one from somewhere!

So if i remove the O ring I'm effectively disabling the regulator? So i could set it all up and run it like that until mapping?

The top of the regulator needs to tap into manifold somewhere then? Have you got a photo of the system on a 250 so I can reference from that? Cheers for the help as usual!

 

yes and it will run 3.5 bar fuel till you connect the little pipe at the mappers.

You can see the rail and pipe on here

 

That's great!

I notice a few differences with the 250 manifold. I'm going to have to tap into mine with a fitting then, shouldn't be too difficult!

 

that's the only problem, the mk2 doesn't have the fitting,
sure you can bodge something

 

Professional bodging has become a new skill of mine.

 

That's great news mate, this is better than the standard, if it did have a Chinese pump in there it should be a higher and better flow rate now, if it was a Renault one there should part number on it.

Let us know how the cold start goes

 

Any idea where I can get this valve?

As far as I'm aware, I now only need the pump and this valve? Not sure if there's a separate relief valve too?

All my searches seem to just bring up the fpr at the rail.

 

I got mine from ebay, i think i still have a spare one, the end of the one that fits in the fuel tank needs to be turned down, for some reason Renault decided that there's had to be slightly different to everyone else.
Think it has to be turned down from 8mm to 6.7mm will have to check though.

 

One like this i purchased

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-0-5-BA...BBEV2bDemotion&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

good that the starting issue is solved
the housing and the tank have a locating lug you must have not located it properly, of you have a wire or something catching the float.

But well done none the less

 

Good stuff!

Really jealous of your 1k km travels!!!!

 

I thought i wouldn't mention it, as i bet he thinks its essential travel

 

Sounds essential to me