Engine Removal Megane 225 F1

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Jukidam, Dec 28, 2019.

  1. manugtt

    manugtt RSM Club Member

    Flywheels in 225 are dual-mass. Can be in the Renault paper simple-mass? Maybe for that reason needs a spacer...
    Not idea about the plastic piece.
     
  2. manugtt

    manugtt RSM Club Member

    Flywheels in 225 are dual-mass. Can be in the Renault paper simple-mass? Maybe for that reason needs a spacer...
    Not idea about the plastic piece.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  3. No spacer required, that picture is wrong.

    I have come across this before with the Renault manuals, they use the same pic but for different setups.

    The plastic part is an addition, is it an aftermarket clutch plate ????
    If so then they have probably done it as an upgrade
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  4. Thank you.

    My '' old'' clutch has that plastic stuff and I think it's the original one or changed by Renault because there is a 82xxxxx parts number written

    The new one is from LUK directly for my Renault.

    So you all doesn't have a plastic thing?
    I play with it a little bit and doesn't found out a reason why it's there, it doesn't have a contact to anything.

    I think I will let it mounted.
     
  5. sorry i thought the one in the pic was the new one

    When you tighten the cover bolts, do 1/2 a turn each bolt until there all tightened down, so it pulls down square
     
  6. Yes it was the new one, just doesn't clean the plastic before photo.

    Thank you for the tip.
     
  7. Morning,

    Do I need to Prefill the new slave cylinder of the clutch?
     
  8. Oh yes very much so otherwise its going to be a pig to fill, good luck, make sure 2 people are involved, one in the car pumping and on underneath the car opening and closing the purge nipple to let air out
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  9. Oh okay:grin:

    I will do like that
     
  10. Try and fill it as much as you can before fitting.
    Before you fit the clutch pipe, attach a length of clear pipe to the bleed stub, make sure it's long enough to be secured above the fluid reservoir, open the bleed screw and fit the clutch pipe.
    Once you have fitted the clutch pipe leave it as long as you can to let the air out.

    Then if the clutch feels good job done, if it feels a bit spongy, press the peddle all the way down and wedge it there for at least a couple of hours (or over night) then slowly release the peddle.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  11. Very Clever, I will do it like that. Thanks for the tip


    Do you think I should also bleed the calipers? Or it's a second Systeme? Would try to avoid it because I want to buy braided lines in a month :sweatsmile:
     
  12. So maybe for the nex one

    Th dual mass flywheel just fits one way, I forgot to make pictures because I got angry trying to take that fat thing alone on the curb and screw one bolt in :sweatsmile: but that job is done.
    Maybe I'm wrong, don't know in exactly but I watched the back and the marks (meaning dust) on the curb and the flywheel and found on one corner is no rivet fitted and that doesn't leave a mark on the curb. So maybe as a tip


    But I have a problem, I buy a Clutch centering pin kit. But at all pieces no one fit perfect on the bearing.

    I also doesn't found one in Germany who sells one for the megane =(

    Do you thing it would be good enough to fit it with eye measurement and the a little bit too uncomfortable fitted centering pin?
     
  13. manugtt

    manugtt RSM Club Member

    Jukidam, I´m 41 years old, and ALWAYS fit the clutch with eye measurement and never had problems when join gear box and engine.
    Another system is to put some tape around the centering pin untill it fix the bearing or clutch hole.
    Just try!
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  14. Thank you, good to know. I will also do it that way if my idea don't work.
    Just before I went home I got the idea to grind the little bit too big adapter on size with p60 grindpaper

    IMG_20200324_195935.jpg

    But doesn't had the time and a drilling machine to finish it.
     
  15. Its a separate system, but uses the same reservoir for fluid.

    Its always worth checking for air in the calipers, just crack the nipples off to see if any bubbles come out, especially if you have let the fluid level go low.

    I have changed both front and rear brake hoses on mine, did them and didn't even pressure or manually bleed the brakes :laughing:
     
  16. Okay, I will check that.


    And you could brake without problems? :tearsofjoy:
     
  17. Ohhh yes, mine is a track day car and not my daily driver.

    I always gravity bleed the brakes when ever possible, its just if you get air in the ABS module, then it needs to go onto Clip or such like.
     
    manugtt and Jukidam like this.
  18. Nice way.

    I buy a vacuum pump, it was the 15 pounds worth used it a lot for every possible way.
     
  19. If it works and your happy with the way it works then keep doing it that way.:sunglasses:
     
  20. Uff thanks for the tip to fill the slave. I was trying to fill up the slave cylinder and found out it's Damaged / broken. So it doesn't suck if I press it with my hands. Try it with the old one which does that.

    Would be a nightmare if I installed everything and than try to bleed that and it wouldn't be possible. It was from a new Rep Set pro from LUK

    I bought a new one now but now I need to wait:confused:
     
  21. At least you found it now rather then when you fitted the engine back in the car.

    I think there have been quite a few LUK ones that have failed in the past, i fitted a genuine one just to be sure it'll work and last.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  22. Yes that's right.

    Nice, I bought the same again :tearsofjoy:
     
    ianplymouth likes this.
  23. Im trying your Gravity bleed Method, because Im too afraid to damage the slave with my vacuum pump :sweatsmile:

    IMG_20200328_232340.jpg IMG_20200328_231741.jpg IMG_20200328_232436.jpg
    do you could see if I do it right? :sweatsmile:

    It needs to be over the fluid not in the fluid or? Is this high enough or should I tape it higher?

    And should I pump it after that before click it to end or just click it to end and try the clutch?
     
  24. Looks good, as long as its higher than the fluid level it will work.
    leave it for an hour, or if your impatient blow gently down the pipe but stop blowing before the fluid disappears out of the clear pipe, then wait to see if air bubbles comes up the tube, repeat till no air bubbles show.

    Once you are happy there's no air showing, close the valve and try the peddle.
    If it feels a little lacking at the top, wedge the peddle down for a good few minutes.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  25. Okay thank you, I will leave it till tomorrow or longer, depends on the other things I need to finish :tearsofjoy:

    I forgot a important question, do the pedal needs to been down or up?

    I leaved it up now (like Standart)
     
  26. The peddle needs to be in the up position all the time, unless it feels vague after you have closed the bleed valve, then hold it down for a while
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  27. Okay perfect, thanks :grin:
     
  28. no problem :sunglasses:
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  29. Not quite sure what's going on here?

    I just connected my brake bleed kit to the nipple, pumped the pedal to get all the old fluid out and closed it up?

    It's been absolutely fine up until now lol.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  30. Nice if it work like that :tearsofjoy:

    I read a lot about that system Nissan and some more have have it too (also the same slave cyl.) and everyone have trouble with it because you want to bleed the slave but the bleeding hole is before In the pipe, so if you not prefueling the slave I think it's really hard to get the full air out from it.

    But nice that it work for you that simple, I would also try it first like you. But I have time, need to put some other things back to the car first due that I try this way. Gravity should as I thought get every air particles out of the line :grin:
     
  31. I guess I do something wrong

    There is no fluid in the pipe
    IMG_20200329_141844.jpg

    I will try to remove the pipe which goes in the slave a little bit more
     
  32. suck on the end of the pipe, gently :smiley:, is it a new slave ???
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  33. Okay =D

    Yes, brand new but I Prefill it
     
  34. probably still has some air in it, suck on the end of the pipe ( or use a syringe :laughing:) and try and draw fluid up the tube
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  35. Works well! Tastes bad :tearsofjoy:

    Thanks
     
  36. that's why i said to use a clear tube, so you can see when it gets close to the top:openmouth:

    I don't know, was it lost in translation :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  37. is it all fluid and no air ????
     
  38. Yeah something like that :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:

    Yes it's all clear now. So I can put the pipe to end?


    Found a new issue
    Do you have a idea how to screw the nut while the inside is also turning??
    Normally they have a imbus or torx inside

    It's from / for the steering
    1585488472911893992467182481867.jpg
     
  39. manugtt

    manugtt RSM Club Member

    I use "Ian system" normally and works perfect, but a few times, if the taste don´t feel right, I ask help and a partner pump the pedal a few times and keep it down. Now, open the bleed nipple and for sure go out some air. Repeat the cicle till pedal feel good. If this doesn´t work...maybe is something wrong fit.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  40. put a jack under the arm, take the weight plus a bit more, then tighten, if need be jack up a bit more till it grips
     
    Jukidam likes this.

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