Engine Removal Megane 225 F1

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Jukidam, Dec 28, 2019.

  1. Hey,

    the last Time this forum was a Awesome help and now i need your Help again.

    Big Thanks to @ianplymouth the last time, He was right i just doesn't want to listen to him that my block or Piston are too much Damaged ^^. Now im trying to remove my engine out to renew it.

    But I'm struggling at some things. How do you Remove your engine ? with the Transmission ? or leave it in there? I will later demount the Front bottom Frame and do some more Pics.

    As i read in some other threads, including the Germans almost everyone do it with the transmission. but why if this is a lot more work to remove the drive shafts and everything.

    As a little Thanks i will try at the end to make a little guide How to remove the engine with my Bad English, maybe someone will translate it later in a better Understandable way =)

    if anyone found a know a good thread or guide please post it.


    At now, the Car looks like this:

    IMG_20191226_224959.jpg IMG_20191227_193802.jpg
     
  2. Always listen to ianplymouth!
    The mans a highly experienced engineer,with many years of hands on experience with meganes.
    The problem is with forums,you get a lot of people that just guess,with potentially disastrous results.

    Taking the engine out with limited experience is going to be a tough job!
     
    Jukidam and ianplymouth like this.



  3. Hi Jukidam

    Pull the engine out with the gearbox, yes you have to remove the drive shafts but it isn't a big job, my best time from driving in to the workshop to having the engine and box on the floor is 2hrs 20 mins.

    Today i had to clear my workshop to get my 265 in, drove the car in and 4 1/2 hrs later my engine is out and on the floor, i only have a pair of axle stands and an engine crane, you don't need anything else really, apart from your normal tools.

    There's not really enough room to slide the engine over to get it off of the gearbox input shaft and then there's the clutch, you need to move it at least 4 inches and there isn't that much room.
    Pull it all out, it will be so much easier.

    Just pull the front sub frame off and leave the rear in there, there is enough room to get the engine out, just don't drop the engine too far, lower the gearbox end about 30mm that's all that's needed.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  4. Okay, thank you a lot for this instruction. The frame is off and I will demount the drive shafts tomorrow and all cables.

    Respect for the 2:20 Hours, im now 7H at this project

    But I think it's almost done.

    @andrewjeffs I'm not that unexperienced, just at Renault =)
     
  5. renault mechanics...double the time it takes to do almost anything!
    renault are great at making things that go in...but not great at removing them again..enjoy!
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  6. Hahah yeah, I see in hypne the average time to get the engine out with transmission is 10,7 Work hours.
     
  7. I really thought there would be a hole in the piston or a bigger damage.

    IMG_20200105_141145.jpg IMG_20200105_141135.jpg IMG_20200103_154334.jpg IMG_20200103_154324.jpg

    The Block and Head goes to a Profesional engineer and he will measure everything and test the head (fresh refurbished by him)

    I can buy a used piston in ebay but it have an another number written on it. Do the piston at Renault habe something like a weight class and need to be exactly the same?
    IMG_20200105_141227.jpg
    The eBay one Have 172.xxxx my Piston have 312. xxxx

    And the other thing is, does someone know a Manufacturer who makes oversize Piston if I need them? In Google I found only Forged piston but nothing from Mahle or Kolben Schmidt.

    Thanks for reading =)
     
  8. Hi
    That is enough to cause the problem, that is the standard fuel supply issue, get yourself a 250 fuel rail to sort the problem.

    I have a R26 piston and con rod spare, or i could sell you a full set of 265 pistons and rods, then you should be good for 400/400 apparently :laughing::laughing:

    Forged pistons work out cheaper than standard Renault ones
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  9. Awesome :grin: does the 250 fits original? And the rail

    And they are Standart size 82,7cm or?

    I will ask you private for the price
     
  10. Replied to your PM

    Yes they are standard, no detectable wear (checked at an engine builder) i am sure they fit, there a different part number but that's Renault for you.
    250/265/275 do have a lower compression ratio but that is due to a bigger volume of the combustion chamber.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  11. That's really good to know but if I need new pistons it must be oversized 83mm
     
  12. Hey

    The Block is back and I start to mount some stuff on it. But maybe because it's late I doesn't found the hole where the crank - shaft Sensor needs to be placed.

    The Man who bore the block unmount it and I couldn't ask him before Monday.

    it would be very helpful if you could help me

    Some pics:
    IMG_20200313_192917.jpg IMG_20200313_192822.jpg IMG_20200313_192751.jpg 15841427686435013439371504332784.jpg

    The code on the sensor is:

    8973216200

    I doesn't found a picture installed of it
     
  13. Crank position sensor is in the bell housing on the gearbox and not on the engine, that part doesn't look right for a Renault, the part number refers to a Vauxhall/Opel, looks like he has given you a part from another engine.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  14. Shit, you're right :tearsofjoy:
    Thanks.
     
    ianplymouth likes this.
  15. Jukidam likes this.
  16. probably best to change it anyhow.Mine just failed with no warning.
    Does he have your gearbox as well?..cant understand why hes given you a crank sensor,when its fitted to the gearbox,not the engine..?
     
  17. upload_2020-3-14_16-36-21.png

    the sensor that inserts into the bell housing was half corroded away.
     
  18. I think the guy that rebored the block picked it up thinking it belonged to that engine
     
    Jukidam and andrewjeffs like this.
  19. No he doesn't have my gearbox.

    I also think he just grabbed the wrong part from an another engine. They was very busy.


    I have a new problem. The guy remove this..... Thing. Which belongs so far I thing in the block and goes to the head

    I think he must removed it to plan the surface of the block

    But I doesn't know where to order a new one and how I press it back

    Someone have a idea?

    IMG_20200314_231404.jpg IMG_20200314_231417.jpg IMG_20200314_235030.jpg
     
  20. Put a thick shaft screwdriver through the centre, put the shaft in a vice and tap it back into shape, you can put the damaged part into the block so the good part is good to go into the head.

    its only to locate the gasket, you could also cut the head off of a couple of your old head bolts and use them as locating pegs
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  21. You guys are awesome. Thanks for the link

    And very good idea with the bolts!
     
    ianplymouth likes this.
  22. Maybe good to know for the next one. The centering sleeve cost in Germany just a pound. And the water pump Gasket 10 Pounds
    (Ajusa delivered me the wrong one, Victor Reinz delivered me last one the right one)

    I order a lot over autodoc, they are unbelievable cheap on good quality parts but also unbelievable slow ^^
     
  23. :tongueout::laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  24. Hey

    I'm about to put the timing belt in. But this time how Renault want it.

    I block the camshafts with the tool and set it on OT

    I loose the nuts from gear of the camshaft's

    And now? I guess I install the belt, tensioner the pulley and then I tension the nuts from the camshafts gears.

    Is this way correct?

    IMG_20200321_173631.jpg IMG_20200321_173237.jpg
     
  25. That sounds about right, don't loosen the cam bolts too much, set the tension of the belt and then tighten the cam bolts and nut.
    Once you are happy and have removed the setting tool, turn the engine over by hand at least 2 full turns, i do at least 4, then recheck
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  26. Yes it looks right.

    I had a oh Fuck moment as I turn it over and see that the tensioner pulley was not exactly on mark but then found it it wasn't even on OT :sweatsmile:

    On OT everything is right.

    Now it looks everything fine, but I will turn it some revolutions more just to be sure

    IMG_20200321_184357.jpg IMG_20200321_184407.jpg IMG_20200321_184552.jpg IMG_20200321_184741.jpg

    Please say nothing about the VHT Paint. I wouldn't buy it anymore :rage:
     
  27. Didn't you put the locking pin in the front of the engine ????

    The colour of the paint is your choice :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  28. You mean the tool which holds cyl 1 (and 4) at the highest point? Which is in the block In the circled area?
    Screenshot_20200321_224309.jpg

    I used this tool, the tool on the back who holds the camshafts

    And the tool in front which holds the camshaft gears.




    I love the color it matches perfect the f1 yellow but VHT Paint is very very bad. Everyone love it but it's very weak cost way too much and it's too thin at spaying.
     
  29. i did mean that circled point, thats good, did it turn over and the locks line up again ????

    You didn't need to use vht paint on that cover, that stuff is for exhaust manifolds etc, normal spray paint is good enough for the block, head and that cover.
     
  30. I didn't check that :grimacing:

    I just do the 4 or more revolutions. And check if the camshafts are horizontally

    And my marks are on point on front wheel / gear was on point.

    IMG_20200321_173237.jpg

    How I can check that tomorrow again? My marks on the camshaft gears are useless because I refit them.

    But I think everything should be fine.
     
  31. I think a little bit about that and I'm very sure everything should be right. But I will check it tomorrow. I will stick a pencil or something large in the hole of the spark from cyl.1 and will see if the highest point is reached, the camshaft needs to be horizontally so I could get the one tool inside. That should be bulletproof.
     
  32. Lets hope the cams haven't slipped in the pulleys, but if you torqued them up before you turned the engine they should be fine :laughing::laughing:
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  33. You should allway check and double check this sort of stuff, it can become very expensive if you get it wrong.
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  34. Yes they were firm :tearsofjoy:
     
  35. Yeah I understand. That's right.

    I will check it later, but as I rethink yesterday I could remember I checked the old marks on the curb and the tool. So it should be adjusted right. =)
     
  36. I hope it's all good for you, time to enjoy your your car again soon :laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
    Jukidam likes this.
  37. Oh yes, can't wait to start the beauty :tearsofjoy::grin:
     
    ianplymouth likes this.
  38. Mhm I don't get it with the flywheel. As I remember I put it out like this and there was no distance plate. But the Renault paper say I need to fit one.

    Could you tell me if it's on it?

    Or is the paper wrong?

    And as I see on the paper it could be installed in any direction. I mean rotating position. Or?

    IMG_20200322_165253.jpg IMG_20200322_165322.jpg IMG_20200322_165337.jpg

    And there is another question.
    On my new clutch was no "plastic" I fit it from the old one to the new one. Is this correct?

    IMG_20200322_170343.jpg

    Thank you a lot :grin:


    Edit: after writing that I think I got it, this plastic on the clutch is the distance Plate or? :sweatsmile:
     

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