R26 Ducting for brakes

Afraid not, there is a basic level of retardation required and that cannot be achieved with small disc dia on reasonable mass performance vehicles and that cannot be compensated for with just ducted cooling.

Brake disc dia has significant other benefits as well as heat management though and that's why it can be a better upgrade option than just ducting. Pad surface contact area, retardation torque available for caliper input pad pressure, required brake line pressure.

 

Thank you for that.
I totally understand this (and anyone who had such a disk in their hand should understand the principle).

Fact also is, they need air. The disk doesn't suck air close to itself anywhere near the required rate. In order for them to work there had to be air, agreed?

 

Who cares about money?
Such a minor irrelevant technicality...

 

It's a lot if your only income is a paper round.......lol

 

I don't think you are going to get very far if you are trying to prove that curved vane handed discs don't run cooler than equivalent straight vaned discs in the same environment. Have a go though.

 

Never did I say that, did I?

But once and for all:
Good, Aero, I appreciate the lesson.
Thank you for the great insight and sharing your great experience.

Although you only pick and choose certain arguments to defend your points, and seem to disregard the same points when other people defend their statements, I am sure you think you have made your point and are, as ever, right.

I already hear your future LOL post, acknowledge that you will have posted it.

From now on, I think it's better for my own sanity to ignore any of your posts. If anyone would do this, this forum might end up being more alive again.

Have a great weekend all.

 

Interesting high performance braking solution. Note the features, large dia discs, disc vane cooling, multiple piston caliper:

 

Fair enough. It was good to bounce a few ideas around and I respect that you did want to trade some different viewpoints. I reckon we were just arguing in the margins.

 

And would still work better with ducting

 

If you click his username there's an option to ignore all his posts. I did that a few days ago and it's hugely increased my enjoyment of this forum.

 

Essll - I think this tip may earn you lots of beverage of choice from the forum community.

 

Excellent, let's get some Guinness lined up!

 

Porsche 944 S2, early 944 turbo, 968, 964. All of those cars are similar power/weight to a Megane RS. All of them had great brakes for their day but the Brembo calipers and pad size are much smaller than on the Megane RS. You can actually fit 15" wheels over early 944 turbo brakes. All of them had brake cooling deflectors of some form and some had more elaborate setups, early 944 turbo for example a huge duct setup that fits inside the front bumper developed from when they raced in the mid 80s Porsche Turbo Cup (the original cup car).

 

Thought you might like my PCCB pic.......

So the really early gen Porsche's had smaller brakes than the R26 and benefitted from a bit of extra cooling. Technology has moved on.

Back to the main point of this thread again because it is an R26 in question, not an 80's Porker being considered and the R26 is the same as the majority of performance vehicles produced today with no additional ducting as standard, if there is a brake temp/fade issue - is opting for plumbing in additional ducting the initial solution. Nope.

And a more practical note there are significantly more Meganes blasting around trackdays without ducting than with. No issues. It's never a mod that is the first suggestion for braking upgrades or for increased endurance. K-Tec don't have a 'must have' ducting mod constantly selling out due to demand.

Of course if someone wants to modify the front end, that's up to them. Only questioning the need.

 

found out ducting was a much cheaper option for me after i dug out the old info
the revotec air hose reducer @12gbp
silicone hose 1 meter @23gbp
so a total of 70gbp + shipping + greasy monkey labour cost

cannot really remember how much my ~330mm disc cost, sure is a tad cheaper than my AP Racing 295mm for the 205 but just the discs were already far far more expensive than ducting. also, ducting is tested and proved.

different people treat trackday differently, some do a little faster than street thrashing some don't.

 

as said before, its got to help hasn't it, will be looking into getting something sorted for mine, cheers for the info.

 

The cheaper option is just whip out the arch liners and then get to work on and behind the bumper with a 50 mm dia holesaw. £3.74.

 

sorry for my layman's view. i guess ditched the inner arch liner and drilled holes won't help much as there will be just more turbulance, you may still need some kind of ducting to divert the fresh/cool air to where is really needed.

if you follow F1, you will see they don't have any obstruction around front wheel but a very neat ducting. air gets in from inner side and out through the wheel.

i haven't tried any track in UK, so i cannot comment. tracks around Hong Kong are quite brake demanding and cooling demanding especially in summer. hired a Swift with instructor at Nurburgring once, i would say not brake demanding at all, surely some may say it is very demanding.

i do believe there is always alternative, say a pair of liquid cooled caliper, ceramic discs etc.