Definitive 250 gearbox mount solution?

Anyone know what the torque setting is for the standard bolt ?

 

Can anyone who has had a bolt failure confirm where the bolt failed. Did it pull out of the alloy lower mount or did the bolt sheer ? If the bolt sheered where did it sheer.

Also I am assuming the bolt hole is tapped all the way through so can a 60mm length bolt be used ?

Last one sorry, anyone know a rough price for the lower section of the mountbpart number 112535475R ?

 

The picture I spotted showed the shear just below the bolt head, leaving the threaded bit in the alloy lower mount

I have also seen a lower mount where someone has fitted an M12 bolt that where after a period of time the bolt has pulled the threads out of the alloy !

I'm thinking of just replacing the standard bolt with an M10 cap head (12.9) and leaving it at that (having also replaced the lower torque mount - so a lot less movement)

 

Not sure how the UK pricing is (I'm based in Denmark), but here it's £84 or so.

 

Has anyone else done this? Just changed the standard bolt for an M10 high tensile instead of drilling for the M12?

 

In fact I've just seen K-TEC do one

http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=6098&appid=20

 

Replaced the gearbox mount and bolt last night, decided to replace the bolt with an M10 cap head (12.9) as per the KTEC ad above rather than drilling and tapping to M12

battery box

 

Did you find the NM for the bolt?

 

No sorry - from memory I applied a small amount of loctite threadloc and tightened to what I thought was tight enough - Not very scientific I know !!

 

That was my idea too :-) Do you know were to find general torque specs for the RS?

 

What torque figures are you looking for ???
As for the gearbox bolt, i would say something in the region of 40-50 ftlbs i would say, never torqued mine

 

Brakes, suspension

 

I don't have that info, engine stuff i have

 

It would be nice if you wanted to share!

 

I have already on here

but here you go

 

I the habit of bumping old post recently. You said going through the arch is easiest. Does that mean you can just take the arch liner off to switch the bolt out? Rather than taking the battery box and everything of. I hate doing that job. Gonna change the bolt for ktec one today.

 

You wont be ble to do it with the battery box in you need to take it out

 

B oooooo. The battery box is a whooore. I'm honestly tempted to make a guide on how to remove it because I'm gonna slap the next person who says undo 3bolts and disconnect the ecu. Don't forget about trying to disconnected the sodding wiring loom that for some retarded reason is attached to the batter box by a pointless u clip. Or the fact that one of the ecu leads is clipped to the sodding batter box

 

Where do you put the jack to support the gearbox? Do I have to take the bumper off to put anything there? I'm just replacing the main bolt

 

You just need to remove the under tray, not the bumper , put the jack under the end ish of the gearbox and leave a gap of about and inch (if you are under 30, then 25mm) undo the nut till its level with the top of the threads, and with the socket on an extension bar, give it a good wack

 

Lol. I managed to do it. I thought you'd have to take the tray off and I put the trolly jack around about here.

Put a peace of wood and made sure it was kept in place when I undid the bolt. The bolt really wasn't as tight as I expected. The new bolt was difficult to do up. But I managed to do it as tight as I could. In hine-sight I should have put some loctite on it really but I didn't.


Should be fine, I suppose I'll find out soon enough if it isn't okay