225 Cylinder Misfire Help

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Trophyboy, Feb 7, 2017.

  1. Hi all.
    Wonder if anyone can shed some light on a misfire problem im having on my 225 trophy?

    The other day i got stuck in a traffic jam and never moved for an hour but left the car running. Anyway engine management light started flashing after about 50 mins and once i got going the car was coughing/spluttering and misfiring. Managed to limp it home and put my scanner on it. Cylinder 1 misfire. So i got some second hand coils which was told were good but its still the same. 2 spark plugs had oil on them so got some new ones from Renault. Popped them in and still no joy. Ive took the plugs out and could see a small amount of oil on top of the pistons. Done a compression test on each cylinder and every one made 155psi so it cant be the rings.

    Im collecting some new coil packs tomorrow morning but wondered if it could be anything else?

    1st/2nd gear it misfires but once i move up the gears it pulls well with no misfire.

    Any help would be much appreciated as got a day off tomoz to get to the bottom of it.

    Cheers
     
  2. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    Injector?

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    Trophyboy likes this.
  3. Something i havent tried yet Matt. Is there anyway of knowing without sending them away?
     
  4. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    You could change #1 and #4 injectors over and then clear the codes and run again too see if the fault moves to #4 cylinder.
     
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  5. Cheers Ian. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Any explanation of the oil on top of piston??

    Anyway of cleaning the tops as its soaking the spark plug.
     
  6. Am i right in think tge firing order is 1-3-4-2 with 2 being flywheel end?

    4cfde50c7169bd5a3b64974c1347894d.png

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  7. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Not sure on the oil, you say the compression is good, it could be from the breather as you were sitting in traffic that long.

    Personally i would get the miss fire sorted and then give it a good long run with a bit of welly and them see how it is, what sort of mileage has the engine done ????
     
  8. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I think #1 cylinder is gearbox end and #4 is cambelt end, this is so very wrong in my book as every engine i have worked on always has #1 at the crank pulley (cambelt) end, but its Renault so anything is possible
     
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  9. Yeah i done a compression test on each cylinder and repeated again to be sure. Every pot came in at 155psi both times.

    I'll see if the new coil packs work and if so ill give it a good run with a bit of welly and see if it burns away. Might see if i can use my brake bleeder to pump some of it out before hand.

    Failing that ill swap 2 injectors over.

    Thanks for replying bud.

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  10. Sorry, engine is on 67k
     
  11. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    The oil should just burn off if its nothing major, and yeah cylinder 1 is nearest to gearbox

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  12. Well its deffo cylinder one (Gearbox end) that came up on my scan gauge and thats the pot that has oil on the piston along with cylinder 2
     
  13. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    What is the colour of the inside of the engine looking through the oil filler, i have had a lowish engine that was not driven properly (not allowed to cool (run)down) and it was very carbon'd up and the valve stem seals were crisp and letting oil pass
     
  14. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Pull of the flexible hose that connects to the throttle body and see how oily it is in there, there will be a smear but not puddles
     
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  15. It looks very clean Ian with just a light film of oil on it. Will get a pic in morning. I gave it a fresh oil service today with new filter for piece of mind. Old oil wasnt to bad to be fair.

    I always let it warm up & cool down for 5mins before turning the engine off.

    Its bloody stumped me to be fair lol.
     
  16. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    You may let it cool down but what about the previous owner :laughing:

    Is it using any oil ???
     
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  17. Haha very good point :smile:

    No, hardly anything Ian but i had half a tank of juice in when this happened and after trying various things like 2nd hand coils etc its nearly empty so its drinking it and ive only been testing it up the road and back.
    Plus the rear of the car is shit high with black carbon from the exhaust. :anguished:
     
  18. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Ahh it sounds like its over fuelling and that will be evaporated fuel (oil) on top of the pistons, could be an injector stuck open that's why it run better under load and higher rpm's, has it been remapped ???
    Do you know anyone else close with a Megane, maybe borrow his injector rail its only 2 bolts and 4 plugs then out it comes, just to try.
     
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  19. Could well be a possibility Ian. Yeah it runs great under load and pulls well in 4th/5th etc and comes on boost as it should. Im unsure if its been remapped or not. Nothing in my reciepts folder to say so.
    Will try the coils first as getting them in morning, can always take them back if its not those. Ill then strip down the fuel rail and injectors and give them a clean. In the 2 years ive owned my trophy ive not seen any 225 sports where i live lol.
    Will carb cleaner release them?
     
  20. Had similar on mine right down to the oily plug although my plug was actually loose and not sealing which appeared to have ruined the coil pack as well. luckily it didn't destroy the sparks thread so changed plugs with proper ones torqued correctly and new coils which helped a lot but broke one of the coil plug clips things and the insides of the coil plug fell apart and then discovered a lose coil on that cylinder due to a mashed thread which may or not have been my own ham fisted work. I had to bodge it a bit as I needed the car for work and although it ran reasonably like this on idle it wasn't quite right so have just rewired the coil loom properly and helicoiled the coil bolt thread so that it sits completely flush and it's a lot happier now.

    If you discover a buggered plug on the loom I have a spare somewhere that you can have for free. It might be all there is to it!
     
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  21. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Yes carb cleaner will work, but you have to energise the injector and then back flush them

    take your pic of these video's :laughing:


    https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cleaning+fuel+injectors+at+home
     
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  22. Cheers Ian. Something im not gonna have chance to get done today. Ive bought some injector cleaner to put in the tank so will see if that frees them up first.
     
  23. Right im on the case now tgat i have all the new bits. Gonna try clean up the top of the pistons with my brake bleeder and a bit of card cleaner.

    Puc of the plugs removed. These were brand new. In order 4-3-2-1
    b224ba6b529610ad32280969ad2ab614.jpg

    893ac3961cdb1ab91fac016b8ddff2c7.jpg

    Also number 3 cylinder coil pack plug which isnt there but hasnt shown an error code
    53b3b2c897357f905587d1867c50ccf9.jpg

    Ppic of inside the oil filler neck. It looks clean with just a light film of oil on it
    1b0928e64d224a5b70252d4f09bbdd13.jpg

    I also noticed the end of this sensor had broken off and was held in by the clip. Whats this sensor for? I noticed that there is 2, one on inlet manifold and one on intake pipe. 2 different part numbers though. Can someone confirm which goes where?
    a8fb2a16d7b0abfd886cc4a1a574526e.jpg

    Cheers


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  24. That's the map sensor(s) as far as I know they're identical so not sure why they have different part numbers.
    It detects the boost pressure and adjusts parameters to suit.
    I know that if they get a bit clogged etc they can cause poor running but I've never seen one that bad and still working!

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  25. That's exactly what my coil pack plug looked like post bodge to get it running and it was a right twat to get a decent connection that way. I have since cut and shut a new plug in the loom and it's a lot better.
     
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  26. a69c1a8218eebd0fc83cefbeb294b1a2.jpg

    Hopefully fairly obvious which ones been repaired! Clip still broken on one of them but got bored of fixing things.

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  27. Gimme a match

    Fitted 4 new coil packs this morning along with adding some injector cleaner to the fuel and im still getting this bloody misfire
    I also cleaned up the plugs with carb cleaner.
    Fired it up and still misfiring so pulled off coil plug leads one by one. No1 stalled the engine, No2 nothing happened, No3 nothing happened, No4 stalled the engine.
    So swapped them over and put 1 & 4 into 2 & 3 and its exactly the same. 1 & 4 cut out engine again so i know all 4 coil packs are good.

    Cleared codes, fired it up again
    and got code P0300 ( Multiple Cylinder Misfire)

    Cylinder pots 1-2-3 have oil on piston, pot 4 is dry.

    Its wrecking my head lol
     
  28. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Did you clean the injectors with a cleaner and not with the stuff you add to the fuel tank.
    You should have swapped 1&2 and 3 to 4, swapping 1 to 4 as both had an effect didn't prove anything as both stalled the engine.
    Also remove the intake pipe that fits onto the throttle body, is there any oil back on top of the pistons ????
    Could also swap the plugs from cylinder to cylinder and see if the problem moves.

    Another thought, disconnect the air pipes from the manifold, block the holes on the manifold with insulating tape to make air tight and try again, process of elimination via the internet is time consuming :laughing:
     
  29. Hi mate
    No it was just a Wynns Injector cleaner that goes in the tank. Gonna remove the injectors tomoz and clean them up with carb cleaner.

    Yeah i realise now that i should have done 1&2 then 3&4. Another job on the list.

    Ive removed the intake pipe from throttle body and it was clean, including the throttle body which i did on the rebuild.
    Pistons 1-2-3 have oil on top of them, number 4 is born dry including the spark plug.

    I'll clean up the plugs again and swap them over so see if that helps. Sounds weird but its not run right since i fitted the bloody things.

    I'll also try blocking those holes as you mentioned but what would i be achieving doing that? When i removed the pipe from the top breather cover it ticked over much better and you could feel the air sucking through it. Once i fitted it back it nearly stalled the engine.

    Hahaha yeah process of elimination lol. Its going into Renault on sat morning and put on clip as i aint spending another penny until i can find out the root cause.
    Until then im just trying to eliminate stuff by trying different things.
     
  30. My mistake, i read the part numbers wrong. Yes both sensors have the same part number bud. The one broken was on the inlet manifold which would explain the error code P0235 ( Boost Pressure Sensor circuit malfunction)
    Ive hopefully got another one coming but cant see it being the main issue of the problems im having?? Or can it?
     
  31. Is there anyway i can test the spark plugs one by one to see if there sparking?
    Something is swaying me towards a dodgy set of plugs.
     
  32. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I meant run it with the intake pipe off :laughing:

    I have had new plugs fail, not that often but it does happen, clean them with the injector cleaner.
    Change one thing at a time, plugs, coils etc .or you will never know what it was

    Blocking the pipes eliminates any problems of oil being sucked into the intake, did you remove the pipe from the top of the engine ??? was the air being sucked in through the engine side or the pipe side, if it was the pipe side that is letting air straight into the intake so makes it a weak mixture.

    have you checked your air filter it's not that that's blocked is it
     
  33. Ahh right haha. Ill do that tomoz and see what happens. Better get some rags ready if it spews all out everywhere.

    Yeah im gonna go back to the beginning and number the plugs and coils and start again.

    Yeah it was the small breather pipe that goes from the top cover to the inlet manifold. Took that off and put my finger on the end of the pipe and it was sucking in towards the inlet manifold.

    I have a brand new itg style filter set up with the cone down behind the front bumper. Cone looks fine bud.

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  34. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    it shouldn't spew out that much oil if any, just eliminating

    You have to do things step by step

    Keep us informed :laughing:
     
  35. It can make it run like a bag of nails if it's dodgy. Sudden loss of power etc, can also effect fueling as it will dump in enough fuel to match the pressure that the sensor reads.
    If it's not dumping the right amount of fuel in it can misfire.

    When you clean the injectors hook them up to a 12v source that you can cycle on and off (a square 9v battery may work but never tried it) while spraying the cars cleaner through the injector

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  36. Forgot to say best to do it in a well ventilated area and watch out for sparks if your using bare wires etc (I use a 12v ac source that cycles at 50/60hz with no bare connectors/ sources of spark / ignition) if you can get any ISO butyl ketone it works much better than carb cleaner

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  37. Ok so i cleaned up all the injectors, plugs and and it started up ok. Took it for a little drive and was still misfiring so back home, opened bonnet and bloody oil everywhere. Dipstick was 1/2 inch out the tube.
    Its beat me
     
  38. Mate, my engine blew up last year after a remap and my dipstick was out like yours and oil everywhere. It was my piston ringlands that had melted due to the firm not monitoring the Air Fuel ratio and it running way to lean, causing too much fuel being introduced into the cylinders and burning way to high, which in turn melted the ringlands. I had to buy an engine and replace the fooked one.

    Is there smoke coming from the exhaust when you rev above 3000 rpm? Do another compression test and see if No 1 is showing anything at all...but check them all just in case.
     
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  39. Hi mate, thanks for replying.

    Im unsure if the car has been remapped at all but it ran perfect prior to what happened and did pull well although dont think it was mapped.

    On start up there was smoke coming out of it like a bloody chimney. Proper thick but after the drive it was only a light haze but still noticable. Took the oil cap off and smoke coming from top end too.
    Cleaned up all the oil and removed the plugs again, 1-2-3 soaking in oil including top of pistons but cylinder 4 (Belt end) is dry including plug.

    I removed the injector rail again and 1-2-3 injectors had oil on the tips.

    Ill do another compression test on monday when i can get it from my mates garage.

    Could it be a turbo related at all? Blown? Im running a blanking plate and no dump valve (Chatter)
     
  40. Yeah the turbo is always a possibility but id be eaning towards piston/ringland failure.

    This could be caused by something as simple as a bad injector that was runnning too lean, or anything that would cause the engine to run hotter than normal like low coolant level, bad thermostat, weak water pump, cooling fan that isn’t working etc.....and as you say it happened when you were sat in traffic for an hour id guess it was something like this that has caused it (thats assuming it is the ringland/piston problem)

    Hopefully its not this and its something less costly and easier to rectify! Might be worth getting a cheap ebay usb endoscope for a fiver and remove the plugs and stick in down the hole and take a look at the piston condition etc. Get AMcap (free) and you can record the video or take pictures of them
     

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