R26 Brake discs - again.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by eddie ninja, Apr 30, 2018.

  1. Yep I know I seem to ask this question or similar every few months but haven’t sorted it yet.

    Did a TD at Bedford today and car was fantastic until I did some laps with a passenger and the dreaded buckling returned with vibrating steering wheel.

    So what is a cheapish upgrade from the standard discs and pads for an R26 that might solve this? I am doing cool down laps every session and letting the discs cool in between sessions.

    Short term solution is for me to be a selfish c*unt and not take passengers but I’m a giver....

    Cheers
     
  2. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Eddie, you don't need anything else, plain brembo's and some performance friction Z rated pads is all you need, if they are juddering the disc's are still too hot when you have stopped and they are sticking to the disc's and leaving a patch on the disc's .
     
    James275 likes this.
  3. What he said. Brembos and PFZ do a great job.

    Ask an instructor to observe your braking style.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
     
    eddie ninja likes this.
  4. Its widely acknowledged the plain disks are the way to go.
    Renault dumped grooved disks for plain on the later Mk3 meganesports.
    also the grooves have that cheesgrater effect that eat pads far quicker than plain.

    As others say, pf-z seem to be a very popular budget choice.
     
    eddie ninja likes this.
  5. My friend drove it aswell and had the same issue and he’s fairly knowledgeable of TD stuff and he said it’s the disc but I’m prepared to try better pads first as it’s a cheaper option.
    He was much more aggressive than me.
     
  6. As said, some pad/disc combos encourage compound build up on disc surface resulting is judder that folks think is buckling it tend to happen during cool down at a specific temp when both elements reach axis and compound aneleds itself to disc. You can actually burn through it but takes some serious commitment on braking and larger judder through system, bit disconcerting. Swap pad to a tried tested compound that less attracted to this particular disc metallurgy
     
    eddie ninja likes this.
  7. It sounds like the disc is now knackered, I had similar issues, but not as bad as yours by the sound of it.

    The only solution is to get new discs and pads and they'll bed in sync. It's an easy job to do yourself. I found it's absolutely critical to follow the bedding in process as recommended by PF.

    Secondly, it's also critical to manage your brakes. That means not overdoing it, 20 minutes hard laps is maximum, a COMPLETE lap in cool down mode. Don't put the handbrake on.

    Your brakes will be effective for much shorter periods as the pads wear down or if you carry more weight.

    There's other stuff to consider like fluid and lines.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
     
  8. I’m now thinking it’s this as once away from track there is no issue so the discs can’t be warped and I’ve cleared the discs through road use.
    Thanks for the advice fellas.
     
  9. Yea been strict on sessions and cool down laps as not first time it’s happened. Will upgrade pads and if that doesn’t fix it go braided lines/fluid.
     
  10. Where’s the best place to get PFC z’s? There available at Kam Racing for £137 fronts. This about the right price? I miss my £35 Brembos already :-)
     
  11. Before replacing anything, whip both discs off and check for any crap either on the hub or the back of the discs, where the discs mount to the hub. Patches of rust, old copper grease, anything like that can potentially cause the disc not to sit flat on the hub, especially as the disc and hub get hotter. Good scrub with a wire brush then some wire wool should see them clean up nicely.
     
  12. I bought a package from Kam Racing. PFz and Brembo HC £198.91

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    eddie ninja likes this.
  13. Alright fella you doing many TD’s this year?

    And I won’t be whipping anything off but I will be paying someone to :-)
     
  14. Haha, fair enough. Done Rockingham and Bedford so far in the megane, and portimao on the bike. Got nurburgring booked for the end of May in the meg, and jerez in June on the bike! Tis the year of trackdays!

    Shame we didn't coordinate our Bedford trips! Got any more planned?
     
  15. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    You need to keep your speed up still on a cool down lap, i use the engine to slow the car down with a small amount of brake if needed, you can still corner at nearly the same speed :laughing:
     
  16. Next one is looking like Cadwell in July. Would like to do one before if wife/bank manager says yes. Did Donnington in March on what I think was the wettest day in my lifetime on NS2rs - interesting....
     
  17. Oh yes - to slow in any corner in an R26 is just rude. :-)
     
  18. So ignored all your advice and bought EBC yellow stuff as Euro we’re doing them for £117. :-)
     
  19. lol... so going on track with EBC ?? must let us know how get on...am guessing the old adage 'buy cheap buy twice' could well apply
     
  20. possibly the worst pads on the market..i got better performance out of bog standard pagid
    couldnt even manage 2 stops from speed, before fading,while destroying front disks into the bargain.
    we await your glowing report
     
  21. I wouldnt EVER use yellow stuff pads again. Twice i have personally had the pad come away from backing and crack down middle
    Awful pad and performs very poorly
     
  22. Ha popular choice. I need a pad for the road that I can use over winter and do a few track days on and doesn’t cost £137. Some seem to love them and some not.
    Can’t be worse than the standard Brembos I’ve been using up to now.
    We’ll see.
     

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