Hi Has anyone done this - removed the front fogs and added ducting to the brakes? Like these - https://trackspec.co.uk/product/tra...rs-2-phase-2-performance-brake-cooling-ducts/ Anyone else sell them? TIA
These fit perfectly... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-...787000?hash=item4b06551738:g:OYoAAOSwaB5XscQh Fitting mine tomorrow, you will need to fit the smaller R26R washer bottle to make enough room (just).
Good luck in routing a sensible sized hose to the brakes. I have done hours of research looking for vents like you have bought and where to run pipework. I have bought the exact ones you have,as they are the only one i can find on the market that fit the aperture right. You cant really use anything wider than 90mm on the outside if you want it to fit without cutting. These are designed to mount a 75mm hose...But its almost impossible to route a hose that big sensibly to the brakes. Even with the smaller washer bottle,the only route is past the aux belt,which will bring the hose to close,and potentially dangerous. Same applys to the other side..no gaps wide enough to get the pipe through sensibly. What i have done is bought some 60mm pipe as well,and some heat shrink tubing to join into the 75mm,So i can try and feed the 60mm through the very small gaps available.Even then,i dont know if its going to be able to squeeze through. I will get it to work..but i assure you its no easy task..Hence why i am not aware of anyone doing it with butchering things. Be aware as well the very bulky hub design,and the way the caliper virtually touches the hub of full lock on both sides, means mouting the pipe securely is also a major headache.You dont want that pipe coming loose and wrapping itself round the brake disk! I will be compiling a `how to` guide later. But with all the work involved to do it as a permanant,pro job..its a big ask for most people.
just to clarify..you dont need to buy the expensive R26R bottle. A 04 Scenic bottle is EXACTLY the same,and picks up on both the location points(part number..8200104705). Even then, the aircon compressor is right in the way. Ebay have them with pump and neck for about £20.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3Inch-Air-Intake-Feed-Flexible-Pipe-Filter-Duct-Induction-Universal-Cold-Hose/183242364137?_trkparms=aid=888007&algo=DISC.MBE&ao=1&asc=52945&meid=74697ba14d8d46d2b77230fefaf21b1e&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=322228787000&itm=183242364137&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 This has exactly the same alloy trumpets,but you also get the hose and clips for virtually the same money.Fkn china though! They are absolutely everywhere on ebay..so look for uk seller.
Was looking at this myself and thinking going central inlets under rad/ intercooler running under car on rad subframe and out on wishbones using rigid 75x25 to wishbones then flexi. Just an idea and not something I've investigated but will look at more closely over winter. As AJeffs said, the fog light route is fraught with problems, tire scrub is a big issue also. Ducting I'm thinking of which should have 90's and 135's available. http://www.marshall-tufflex.com/product/1646/screed-floor-ducting-75x25mm
Unless you can bend and flex the tubing used,its impossible. Just to many angles, bends,and tight spaces to route through. I have done a fk load of research into this. It seems the optimum pipe width is 75mm..which is what i have. Neoprene,with coiled wire inner,so it can be extremely flexible..but that width is a problem. I have the entire front of the car off at the moment,so i have looked at all options. As i said i have a way i think it will work,but it really is super tight,and requires running the pipe in places under the intercooler.As well as underneath the car,beneath the undertray ,past the sump. Its a total nightmare! Will create the how to guide when its done..still waiting for a few bits and bobs to be delivered.
So it's not possible, to say, cable tie this rigid pipework to rad subframe and then exit out at 90 degs toward the wishbones and feed the cooling to the bottom of the disc off the wishbone? In my mind it could work as all moving parts cleared and ground clearance should be ok as only 25mm deep. Just talking from memory but seems feasible!
The wheel arch liner fits tight to the inner arch,so even if you clear the pulley,you have no way of getting the pipe routed behind the inner arch,and out through the wishbone/steering rack opening. Exactly the same other side..if not even tighter. I will put a pic up tmrow of what i have done..but you are talking a run of 1.5 meters+,just for the left side. There is only 1 aperture big enough to bring in a pipe thats going to be a worthwhile diameter to bring in enough air. And this is right next to the steering rack..but again its super tight on a 75mm pipe,and will need to be forced down as far as it will go,as the bloody manifold heat shield for the rack is right there!,so heat would be a issue if to close. It has to go at some point on both sides past the sump,so you can feed it through the rack aperture on bothsides. Not the end of the world,as its not exposed because its under the undertray..but again..its super tight for space..75 will not fit,but i think the 60mm flexi,wire enforced pipe,i have ordered, will..just.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/76mm-Pla...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PU-Flexi...var=410125630414&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120mm-Bl...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 75mm pipe 60mm pipe heatshrink sleeving..will be essential for pipe joins, and joining pipe to alloy trumpets, in the fog light apertures
i see you cut the wheel arch liner,and used a modified alloy reducer for your bumper inlet..good idea using the reducer! you can see how tight it is to the pulley! Have you noticed any improvement to brake durability? I have seen tests where the brakes are 60oc cooler when worked hard,with a cold air feed installed.
they have no mounting brackets,so you will either have to add some like engine killer has done,or stick them in. As i say..not a 5 min job,and you cant do it quickly, unless you are prepared to take some of the wheel arch liner away. I have taken half the car apart to do it right with permanent clamps..not cable ties. its major work with all the routing required so nothing has to be cut. Also about £150 worth of parts. How to guide will be ready next weekend.
just the brackets were not good enough to secure them in place, silicone was used. even with cutting the liner in mind, it is surely not a 5 min job. by the way, i found it impossible to avoid the wheel at max turn not fouling the hose without cutting the liner
Ha yea. Didn’t want rid of but missus wouldn’t let me spend more money on it but she’s just got a new job and won’t have to drive the meg as much plus we’d already got the loan for the new car so I’m upgrading the R26 baby! Booked into Engine Dynamics next month for new turbo, exhaust and map. Yea baby!!!!!!
This is what I was going to get. Agreed £4500 px for my R26. Was going to advertise the r26 for two more weeks to see if I could match it for cash but then circumstances changed. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201806157529805
my hoses do not come in the way yours have. Mine come in next to the steering rack,so no fouling issues on full lock both ways.
Its not that hard at all. - 75mm trumpets stuck into the bumper with some sikaflex or similar. - 75mm hose run through to a 75mm hole cut in the arch liner. Ive not bothered running up to the back of the hub as a well angled hose poking through the arch liner will work well enough with no risk of catching anything. - On the drivers side Ive squashed the hose under the air con condensor, fits just fine. Obviously retains the same internal dimensions. Overall a pretty easy job, probably took about 2 hours, although I did it with the car on a ramp meaning removing the arch liners was simple. Some poor pictures below but you can see roughly the routing. Forgot to get a picture of the front of the car but will add one when I get home.
Theres no way I would leave that hose there, you are asking for trouble. Shame as without the aux pulley it would be the best way to route.
No offense Toms,but what i am trying to do is more involved. my hoses are coming right into the back of the vanes of the disks with permanent mountings. No cutting of liners,or squashing of pipes. But if it works for you,fair enough.
Was so close but I can spend a couple of grand on the R26 and the rest of the loan we’d already sorted on a multitude of over things. Plus don’t feel like I’ve had the R26 long enough and spent so much on it last year.
Good on you bro! You've now got a pretty strong engine, why not exploit it! Granted, what you were gonna go for was a sweet car, but..... Hybrid, a decent map and big smiles! Happy days! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Also call me a weirdo but I like the under dog nature of having a 10 yr old car that will be stupid quick and surprise newer and/or more powerful cars. It’s partly why when I had a sports bike it was a 600.
I like your thinking bro! That's exactly part of the reason why I haven't driven/towed mine into a field and torched the fucker! Not quite yet anyway! When mine runs...........god, does it put a grin on my face!!! Keep the faith Eddie! [emoji16] Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
