Hi guys, looking for a bit of help with my clutch. When driving the car from cold the clutch hasn’t been returning properly and was taking a few pumps before operating as it should. After a bit of research on here I decided to change the clutch damper for the HEL replacement pipe kit and now I cannot get a clutch pedal. I have tried using a syringe to reverse fill but couldn’t get this to work and then I bought a eezibleed kit but still can’t get anything much out the bleed nipple and zero pedal. I’m now stuck and wishing I had taken it to a garage so any help much appreciated.
There are two positions on the pipe that fits onto the gearbox bit, pushed right in is normal clutch, the second is for bleeding, pull the clip out and pull the pipe back about 5mm, or pull it right off and with the clip fitted push on to the first click. When i have done them in the past, i fit some clear tubing to the bleed point, this will then let the air out and you can see whats happening, then either leave over night of an hour or so, if the peddle is still not right, pump it a dozen times or more and wedge the peddle down for an hour or over night, release it slowly though.
Large syringe 10ml or so, and pull the fluid through via a pipe on the bleed nipple. Few pumps,of the pedal and repeat. Done mine from totally empty this way.
Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. I think the slave on mine is slightly different as it has a screw on the end that rotates 180 degrees to open the bleed point. I removed the new pipe from the slave end and hooked up the eezibleed to see if anything would come out that way but nothing. It’s almost like there is a blockage somewhere. Also checked the pipe and it is ok.
As stated above Clear 100ml syringe filled with 60ml of brake fluid with a clear hose, fit hose to bleed point, syringe needs to be higher than the brake reservoir to work. ( gravity ) Take cap off reservoir and place paper towel round reservoir. slowly inject brake fluid from the syringe into the system, keep checking the level in the reservoir as you go as this will rise. don't use all the fluid as you don't want to force any more air into the system. Close bleed point and remove syringe. check clutch and repeat if ness. I also pre filled my clear tube with fluid before attaching to bleed point. Kev.
I had this with my BMW 1 Series when I removed the clutch delay valve on that. What I did was I got an oil can like one of these: https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/laser-oil-can-500cc.-589160.html I attached a long bit of silicone hose to the end of it, be creative to make it a tight seal! Then I attached the other end to the bleed nipple and pumped away. Watch it doesn't overfill the reservoir and pour out everywhere. Worked a treat on the BMW. Probably will work on the Megane too? Worth a go!
I wanted to add my experience in as when google searching this post pops up and i think this information is helpful. For anyone doing the Clutch Damper Delete, it is actually fairly easy.... if you do it correctly. Unfortunately i thought i had but 2 mins into a test drive left me stranded with a clutch pedal flat to the floor. For me the issue was not pushing the new hose is enough, seems like a silly mistake but i thought it was fully pushed in, it locked but obviously once under pressure it pushed off. This leaves quite a bit of mess and a bit of air in the system. So firstly make sure that the new hose is pushed fully in, a real good push is needed. secondly go with the advice above regarding bleeding. No need to pull the air out, it is much easier pushing fluid in and allowing it to bleed the air out. Not sure if this would help but making sure its fully pushed in would have saved me a world of pain.
Thanks everyone for your help with this. I tried all your suggestions but unfortunately nothing was working. When trying to backfill from the bleed nipple, it wouldn't take any fluid, almost like a pipe was blocked somewhere. I decided there had to be something wrong with the master cylinder so fitted a new one last night and now I finally have a pedal! The eezibleed made bleeding pretty straight forward in the end. There must have been an issue with the master cylinder that was causing my initial problem with the the pedal not returning properly from cold and bleeding the system just tipped it over the edge. Hopefully this thread will help anyone else experiencing this issue.
Hi All I'm wondering if there are different types of bleeders in the Rs250? I was doing a fluid change on my 11' rs250 and when I got to the clutch bleed I found and removed the clip but the whole unit wouldn't pop out the 5mm or so like it's supposed to (as I've read on many threads. I did notice however that there are 2 tabs just above and below the bleed nipple that looks like they are there to give leverage to twist the whole unit (and potentially open the bleed circuit) Sounds like the Tourqstien has a similar unit. My question is if that is the case how do you twist it whilst keeping the clutch line plugged in as it doesn't seem that flexible. I'm using a pressure bleeder attached to the reservoir Sorry for the poor quality pic but you can kind've just make out the tabs above and below the bleed nipple
On mk3 250 slave you turn the end where the nipple is to open the bleed point. Only mk2 meg is the clip/pull pipe.
this may help regarding different bleeding arrangements and methods - note requirement to keep pedal Up by tieing off to steering wheel!
Thanks Brigsy and Zoto. As soon as you confirmed it twists it all seemed so obvious ;( got the bleeding done with no issues
I literally had mine bled from dry by pulling 60ml of fluid through via a large syringe. Really easy compared to mk2.
I'm fitting my HEL clutch pipe onto the Rs250 Question regarding where to tie-in to the slave cylinder assembly Looking at the attached photo is it at A or B Appreciate any pointers
Fit the pipe at b. The piece between a-b is a restrictor, i have ran without this with no issues but its best left in place.
I was about to say im sure i attached to A because B kept popping out.... however im sure this was user error.
Thanks everyone for getting back to me. Connected to B and seems to be working - touch wood, and no leaks. Also bleeding went much easier than I was anticipating. I must say second time in/out with battery box seemed much easier than first time (for gearbox mount). Hopefully no third time.
It is easy to take the battery box out just a faff but you do get the hang of it and whipping it out in no time. Same for the scuttle panel for sorting the suspension out.... im a pro now
