Looks like RST have improved the oil return pipe. Think about heat management before installing, everything gets exceptionally hot under the bonnet and I mean hot !! Heat protect water and fuel lines, make sure you have good bulkhead heat protection. Protect the wiper motor and wiring, keep an eye on the scuttle - I’ve seen them melt.
Plan is to heat wrap the fuel line, I've removed the abs so there's not a huge worry regarding that element, wrap the downpipe and dare I say this.... I may fit bonnet raisers at the back to try and drag some air down into that area!
For the time being I'm just going to throw the r26r clutch etc back on to get things up and running. If this can't cope I'll swap it out for something more robust. I'm hoping EFi can limit the torque to something reasonable, I'm not interested in big low end torque as the plan is fir this to be used on track 99% of the time so driveability isn't a concern.
Looking through big unos build, he managed to limit the torque to around 360lb-ft, hoping i can do the same. I've got the block ready to go now, freshly bored etc but I'm waiting on new oil squirters and thrust washers before I start the rebuild. Had the intake manifold cleaned up too.
looking forward to hearing it run up in 2023 get your finger out, the Forth bridge was painted quicker
Been so busy with work it's been hard to find any time to really focus on this! I would like to get it fired up for the end of the month, but I'm not holding my breath!
Tiny bit of progress Dropped the new oil squirters in and got the acl shells filed down, was going to assemble the crank but suddenly realised I had no tools with me so had to chuck some oil on everything and abandoned ship! Be happy if I can get the bottom end rebuilt this week.
Actual progress today, may even get this bottom end complete tomorrow if I get chance to get back on it. If I ever do this again, I would definitely be getting an engine stand, bit of a ball ache on a bench!
I've got to work out how to time it all up correctly yet, let's just hope it isn't a steep and expensive learning curve!
A little, mostly just removed the casting marks but did open it up a little in the process. The machine shop ran their tools through as well to get everything looking so consistent. Negligible gains to be had on a turbo, but won't do it any harm.
That's the easy part if you have the right tool, i don't but the last couple of times i have borrowed the tool from the garage up the road from me. Just when you think it all done, turn the engine over at least 4 complete turns and check again, if you have to make an adjustment then do the 4 complete turns again. Dont turn the engine back to get the crank pin in. Hope it all goes well
What tools are needed? I have the genuine timing kit from renault but not sure what else I need, if anything? I assume TDC is set for cylinder 1 (gearbox end) so everything is worked from there?
There is a kit for this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262893306387?hash=item3d35a98213:g:NR8AAOSwBGZgeSAX Its not 100% needed and i wouldn't by from Poland, but it was the best picture i could find quick. The cams need to be close to there position first, but make sure that the pistons are not TDC before you move them. Make sure you have the right cams in the right place (been there done that) also have the cut outs at the rear of the cams the same, sure it big bit at the top, but sure it doesn't matter. The crank pin goes in a hole on the front of the engine, right by the sump flange and bell housing flange, it's a male torx A 6mm drill bit will fit in there. fit the cam pulleys but don't tighten the nuts. Now you can fit the belt and tighten the tensioner so the belt is reasonably tight but not fully tensioned, ths will stop the belt jumping when you test turn the crank. Then turn the cams until the edges line up with the head/cam cover join, i used a piece of bar to turn the cam and when your happy with it tighten (but not fully, about 3/4 of max) the cam nut. Do the same for the other one. Test turn the engine, but don't force it if it goes tight. Recheck the timing, refit the drill bit into the crank hole and check the lines of the cams
It's the right cam in the right place that worries me the most lol. My mate was a mechanic for 15 years, all be it with Toyota for most of them so I'm sure he'll do it with his eyes closed, but it's a process I have zero experience with and I'm quite excited and terrified in equal measures!
As long as you turn the engine over by hand and don't force it if it stops, then you will not damage anything, if the marks are close and it jams up then the cams are in wrong. This is why you have to turn the engine over by hand first.
Is it advised to put a little sealant on the rocker cover or is it okay without? Little concerned about some sealant finding it's way where it shouldn't.
You need some sealer on it, just a small fine bead all of the way around, I used Victor-Reinz Reinzosil and like a 1mm bead is all you need. Then it won't goo out where you don't want it to go.
Yeah just remembered I have some of the victor-reinz stuff. Been that long ago since I started the project I can't remember what I have and haven't got any more.
In my experience, never use sealant in that cases. I remember a time when I thought just a little sealant would be fine in a crank seal replacement. Bad idea, the same sealant works like lubricant and the seal went out. Imagine what a maze! Since that time, never more, and never had other case. Maybe I put to much, I don´t know!
The surfaces are machined, but its not going to be that perfect, using a very thin smear or a very small bead, just make sure that both surfaces are really clean and you can smear it out and remove any excess.
Cleaning the cover and I realise I may be missing some of the little locating pins, any idea where I can get some?
I might have another 2 so possibly only one short, I'll have a look tomorrow. I think a little piece of the head chipped off trying to free one side too.
I wouldn't worry to much if you have 3, 2 i'm sure is enough. put one in opposite corners and the third cambelt end
Have you got the torque settings for the rocker and cams? I notice I still have some timing marks from a previous cambelt change, hopefully these will be somewhere near to where I need to be!
Don't use any existing timing marks as there are no locating pins, you need to use the slots on the back of the cams, anyway you will need to remove the pulleys to change the oil seals
So I think I've got this ready for the belt now, the original marks weren't a million miles off so I re-aligned them when I refitted after changing the seals. Bad news is that the supplier has given me extra cam seals & nuts, but not the cam caps for the other side. I've also got the wrong water pump gasket and whilst the one I removed has barely done any miles, it's really not worth re-using it! So progress has had to halt for now!
