Android Auto head unit, preserve RS monitor

Has anyone installed a China Android Auto headunit to confirm that the RS monitor still functions?

I have found a few options on AliExpress for my 2012 which keep the "factory monitor" connected, and some which include a relocation mount for it, but I can't tell if all functions will work as the loom only has a couple of wires running back to the original small display.

Here's the one I'm considering.
For Renault Fluence 1 2008 - 2017 Car Radio Carplay Player Android Auto Navigation Stereo Wireless GPS Bluetooth WIFI Multimedia
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msEiXYw

 

Job done.
The answer is to not connect the RS monitor to the head unit. Just leave it connected to the original cable and ignore the pass-through cables included the Android.
I don't think I'm missing anything by not connecting the RS monitor harness to the Android but without the RS monitor connected the Android doesn't power on.

 

Yes, all of the steering wheel buttons work.

 

I bought this multimedia unit from AliExoress which included the dual screen mounting frame and wiring harness.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqMpDY2
I specifically ordered the "C 6G 128G CAM" version.

 

No problem at all.

The original head unit was already gone when I bought the car and was fitted with a broken single DIN motorised display unit which was trying to uninstall itself by pushing back against the A/C controls.
I also removed a ton of unused cables left from the original owner in Japan.

I still can't set the clock on the RS monitor but the temp displays OK.
The original mic doesn't work, I have used the mic supplied with the stereo and mounted it on the trim behind the steering wheel.

The unit is more than acceptable for the low price and performs well
The software based (Z-link) Android Auto can take a moment to connect sometimes but does support wireless android auto despite the listed specifications showing wired only.
The sound quality is fine and the unit has an incredible DSP/EQ using the touch screen to draw your EQ curve along with individual HP/LP and delay settings for the front/rear/sub and a 3D and DBB setting which I'm not using.
I'm in the process of replacing the speakers as the passenger front speaker had frozen solid so made no bass but with the car being relatively noisy I'm not chasing audio nirvana here but am considering installing a sub in the boot or tyre well.

 

At this stage I'm hoping to get away with 5.25" coaxial speakers. I'm not happy with the factory tweeter location and can't be bothered wiring in the tweeters and crossovers anyway.
I've done one door so far using Infinity Reference 5032CFX speakers using some adapters I 3d printed.
I'm not sure there would be any benefit stepping up to 6.5" as the front doors have a couple of enormous holes in them which would limit any bass gains.
It might be worth it for the rears which are fully sealed.

 

Yes, the CANBUS decoder is included, pre wired into the harness, and pre configured.
You just need to route the wires (not easy, not too hard) and plug everything together.

Yes, this handles the reverse sensor and screen dimming. I don't think the car provides much else using CANBUS.

 

I think you can have both.
The steering wheel controls work automatically and don't use the SWC inputs or app to assign them, they must come through CANBUS.

I don't have the original fascia so this won't fit in my car anyway and don't think I'd use it as there's already a touchscreen, the steering wheel controls, and voice control for Android Auto.

 

That is the connector for the RS monitor cable which I didn't connect as it leaves the RS monitor not working. Leave the RS monitor connected to the original cable.

There are some listings on AliExoress for the cable which show what the connectors are for but it should make sense once you get to it.

There are some YouTube videos showing the installation (in French), but you need to remove the trim either side of the A/C (clips only) , the stereo trim (clips only plus cables fit key slot and 12v socket) , the A/C unit and factory stereo (screws plus unclip cables) , the centre air vent (clips only plus flasher switch cable) and the factory screen frame (clips only plus cable)

To deal with the lack of space on top of the dash I removed the new screen from the new frame and reinstalled once all cables were connected and everything tested.
The RS monitor can only be installed after the new screen is in the frame.

Getting the RS monitor out of the factory mount was a bit challenging. I initially picked open the wrong clips which separated the screen itself. I'll upload some photos of the factory frame so you can see the correct clips.

 

Here's a photo the original RS monitor frame.
The screen is held in only at the 4 points marked in green (I think) and will then push out the back of the frame.
You'll also need to transfer the metal clips to the new frame.

That black wire and other bundle to the small plug must both connect to the new screen.
I'll try to find the listing with a better diagram of the wiring, and the installation video.

Yes I'm still happy with it, especially considering how cheap it was.

 

This is in French but is the most helpful video I could find.
DIY INSTALL A 9INCH ANDROID 10 CAR RADIO? In Megane 3 GT & Megane 3 RS & Renault Fluence (youtube.com)

 

Here you go.
I left the "factory screen" connections disconnected (D and E) and connected the factory cable to the RS monitor screen.


For Renault Megane 3 Fluence Head Unit Stereo Android 10 Am/fm Rds Dsp 2 Din Car Radio Multimedia Player Navigation Gps Wifi - Buy For Android 10 Renault Megane 3,For Renault Megane3 Android Megane 3 2009 Renault Megane 3 Multimedia,Autoradio Megane 3 Autoradio Android Megane3 Megane3 Product on Alibaba.com


Note: There was two kinds of power plugs for Megane 3 & Fluence, and now we combine both of them into one, See as the below instructions.



Socket A is the power socket of Fluence.
Socket B is the power socket of Megane 3.
Socket C needs to plug into the navigation host CAN port.
Socket D needs to connect to the plug of the original screen.
Socket E must be inserted into the original factory screen, and then put the original factory screen in the car storage box to let it continue to work. The original factory screen assembly must be retained, otherwise a fault code will appear.
Socket F does not need to plug in any equipment, just leave it open.

 

Yes, it's quite a large screen mounted high and forward on the dash which isn't deal but the only option for this car.
I don't find it to cause any visibility problems when driving.
I see plenty of people with phones or GPS units mounted in the centre of their windscreen (and shake my head at the thought) which is much much worse.

The sound is perfectly fine with a good DSP and volume, you can always add an external amp and sub if you want to.

 

I should say I think it's the best option, not that it is the only option.
Another option would be.a 1 DIN motorised screen in an after market fascia to replace the factory radio, but this would be smaller, too low, block the A/C controls, and probably crap.

These units are fairly generic themselves with vehicle specific mounts and wiring.
I went for the complete bundle linked in my first post.

 

Yes, my stereo shuts off if the engine isn't running too.
I assumed that this was normal as the previous stereo did it too and must be caused by the car shutting off the switched power.
I think it runs longer if the doors are closed.

Pressing the start button on my car starts the engine so I remove and insert the key card to power up again.

 

After spending the afternoon pulling the drivers door cards off again, removing the stereo dash mount, the glovebox, and A/C controls to run a new switched power feed, which I though was the issue, I've finally found why my speakers are cutting out.

It looks like the speaker wires to the doors have broken.
When I first tested after reconnecting everything all was well, but next time I went out to test the drivers door speaker was very quiet.
I opened the door to have a better look and it cut out altogether.
Opening and closing the door a small amount causes the speaker to come and go so it must be a break in the wire between the body and the door.

Luckily the drivers door card is still off and the dash half dismantled.
Unfortunately I have confirmed that the passenger door has the same issue so that card will be coming off for the fifth time for a rewire as well.

Is this a common issue on these cars?
I 've never run into it before.

 

I'l tackle it next weekend, looks like another PITA job.
It makes me worry about the state of the other cables running through the same boot from the door to the car.

 

That's, what I'm planning to do.

 

Yes, this is where I'm stuck now.
If I need to rewire anyway, should I go all in and install components?
....and an amplifier?
....and a subwoofer?

 

Following you comment I have now seen the eBay listing for the door harness and as I wondered when looking at it in my car the harness terminates to a plug connected to the car body.
This means that there is no way to run new speaker wire through to the door in the factory boot.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134689146359

At this stage I have wiggled the harness between the door and the body which made the speakers start working again.
I'm hoping, but doubtful, that this is a permanent fix.
It could just be that the connection of the plug to the body socket was loose or otherwise bad.