R26 Adventures with interior trim - R26

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by Bob Thompson, Jan 10, 2021.

  1. Evening all,

    While still waiting for some other components for the intake build - I thought I’d tackle some of the not so pretty interior bits.

    Turns out the wonderful plastic/rubberised coating Renault put on in 2008 has not stood up to the test of time very well. With most of the interior centre console having a soft sticky feel which is just crap.

    So I thought I’d start with the piece of trim that houses the clock and looks like a bonnet scoop... as the undulations of the piece would be a challenge, it’ll be good to cut my teeth on.

    Also, as tech has moved on since 2008 - the use of sat Navs like Tom Tom and Garmin are now non existent. I use google maps if ever I’ve got to go anywhere so I wanted to make a little mount that would hold a Belkin phone holder/charger.


    The start piece was in bad condition but for £7 I couldn’t complain
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    I tried sanding the bugger... but the paint finish just clogged the paper... so I tried a Stanley blade to scrap it off... which worked but was gonna be time consuming and damage the plastic underneath.

    So after a little head scratching my eye was drawn to some Dot 4.1 brake fluid - perfect... well not perfect but it’ll get the job done.

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    Quickly cleaned down with some isopropanol alcohol the piece was back to naked plastic.

    A good key with some 320/800 grit, some plastic adhesion primer, and a few coats of plastic primer and this baby was ready for paint

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    I’d cut a little slot for the mount to get bonded to the underside of the plastic with some JBweld.

    I made a Alu bracket for the phone holder and shaper it into a wing profile.

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    This was finished and sanded smooth, primed and sprayed satin black to contrast to the dark anthracite colour I’d chosen for the clock trim.

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    So much prep is worth it when you start putting the colour on.

    And with the bracket held near to it it should provide a nice stable platform for it to hold onto. The hole drilled through will fix the phone holder to the bracket and make sure it doesn’t go anywhere.

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    The workshop air was thick after all this spraying! It looked like a stripper bar with the metallic flecks everywhere... what will the wife think???

    Plenty of drying time needed and some coats of lacquer. I’ll do the air vent in a satin black to match the bracket and the radio surround in the same dark anthracite to match in with this.


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  2. hopefully you wont get a reaction from the plastic with the paint over time.I did my radio/heater panel in a very similar paint and laquer.Its developed a few small bumps on the paint over the months,which is a bummer,as it means doing it all again.Some plastics react with paint,no matter how well they are prepared and painted..
     
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    this is mine..
     
    Bob Thompson likes this.
  4. Very nice!

    I did the same process on my Clio 200 - all the vents and dash in gloss black and that looked really good for 2 years, no bubbling. Same steering wheel trim too!

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    Poppaboost likes this.
  5. I like everything except the color . I have personally tried at least 10 color variants. Eventually I switched to a matte dark gray almost black. The shiny surface is disastrous for the summer period and the sun that reflects on the windshield .
    On top of all that, even my dash cam doesn't like shine
    Bracket for phone holder or something else is cool !
     
    Conoboy likes this.
  6. Fair enough! Colour choice is a personal preference I guess, I was going to use some Matt lacquer to cut down on any glare - but I guess I’ll have to see how that goes.


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  7. i think snappy did my steering wheel..
     
  8. Thanks for posting up the write-up; I have on my to-do list to do a bit of an interior refresh on mine, and have exactly the same issue with ‘melted’ rubberised coatings on the plastics that have now become scratched and tatty looking. You’ve saved me creating a new post as I’ve got some questions!

    I did a bit of reading recently, and it seems there’s no chemical product to remove the rubberised coating without people suggesting that the plastic underneath could become damaged. I’m not sure what the extent of this damage is that people are suggesting; if it is just discolouration, then that’d be no issue as it’s being painted, but if it means plastic softening or becoming brittle, I guess this could become an issue with it falling apart or reacting with the paint. Mechanical removal seems to be out of the question for the reasons you’ve suggested, so it seems there’s no easy answer.

    How did you apply the brake fluid and how quickly did it work? I have got some graffiti remover, but I’m sure this would be too aggressive. It seems the best is to use a chemical, but one that doesn’t work too quickly to damage the plastic, or too slow so as not to become a faff.
     
  9. Yeah I do have some concerns with using brake fluid or any harsh chemical to remove the weird plastic rubber. I’d hoped the alcohol would neutralise any effects of the dot fluid on the plastic but I did start to notice some small craze lines in the plastic. Which is why I bought a second hand unit in the first place to experiment with.

    The dot fluid worked really well, really quickly. Used some nice rubber gloves and applied a small amount to an old duster cloth - wiping over the whole surface gently. Left for 1-2 min and then wiped again and the stuff just started coming off onto the cloth which was handy. But this was only last resort and because I was fed up... I’m not sure this would be my go to method in the future. If I’d be more patient I would’ve gone for some ‘clean slate’ plastic safe paint remover (https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/pr...tgsIpL20I3il1ZrcjluQ-jnxR1djsurAaAkMiEALw_wcB)

    Once all removed quickly sprayed with isopropanol alcohol to remove the dot fluid. Inspected the small crazing... didn’t seem too bad. Used some upol raptor adhesion spray to assist with the primer stick - then used plastic primer and the rest as you see above.

    I’m gonna leave it for a little while and see if any reactions happen with the plastic. So far it’s fine, no issues but only time will tell.


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  10. Took mine months before I got the small bubbles appearing.I had problems with the plastic primer crazing.in the end changed from Halfords primer to the best body shop plastic primer I could find,and that went on better
     
  11. So the adventures continue…

    This time experimentation comes in the form of forged carbon skinning. After investing in some materials and gear I’ve started to work on some spare interior parts I had for the R26.

    Stripped off the rubberised paint from the vent surround and coated with epoxy resin, layered up with chopped carbon tow and repeated - curing times are quite long so progress is a little slow. Another coat of resin goes over to top it out.

    Once fully cured, flat back through all the grits of wet and dry - I went from 120 upto 2500. On my test piece. Just waiting for the lacquer to dry. I’ll be doing half in gloss and half in Matt to see which finish I prefer.

    Also coated up some door pulls too. Waiting for them to cure before I can rub back.

    Good to have something to work on.


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    Andrewa likes this.
  12. Interesting approach, curious to see the result!
     
  13. Im also curious. Looks like OSB board at the moment :grinning:
     

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