R26 A tale of three bolts

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Steve Rawlinson, Jan 30, 2019.

  1. On a track day two weeks ago I got a 'check injection' warning message and the engine went in to limp mode. Nursed it back to the pits, off and on, no message, full power. Out on the circuit and within 2 the message pops up again.

    So I drive home (no incidents) and a local garage says three bolts were missing at the join between the turbo and the exhaust. See photo. This is behind the heat shield at the back of the engine. The gasket has rotated about 60 degrees but is still there. They replaced the bolts.

    missing_bolts.jpg

    Two track days later I get a ticking noise when accelerating under load. It sounds like an old VW beetle engine - a bit like sticking a playing card into the spokes of a bicycle.

    A different local garage this time: the same bolts are missing.

    Anyone heard of this before?
     
  2. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    Quite common on them to loose the bolts out the downpipe, some copper nuts and locking washers is what you need
     
  3. Thanks Jamie. How do copper nuts help?
     
  4. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I use nylock's, once tightened and hot, the plastic melts and acts as an additional locking device.
     
  5. -Jamie- and James265trophy like this.
  6. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    And your reason ???
     
  7. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    What Phil said, they are oval but once torqued up basically lock.


    Saying that I just run M8 cap heads on mine and never had one come loose
     
  8. They lose their locking ability around 120 degrees Celsius
     
  9. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Must be just you then, i never had any problems on my mk2 in 4 years and about 40+ track days, also fitted then to my 265 when i fitted the decat and no problem so far, but i do use A4 stainless nylocks
     
  10. If you need any nordlock washers, or bolts etc let me know
    i’m not saying you’re wrong, I’m just going on what customers are buying.
     
  11. Because you haven't had any issues doesn't mean it's the right thing to use

    Nylock nuts melt completely below turbo temperatures and they don't act as "an additional locking device"

    There's a reason manufacturers use the compression copper nuts or k nuts
    I've never heard anyone say that melted plastic is a friction material before.

    https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/demon-tweeks-metric-aerospace-locknut-k-nut-243560/

    or

    https://www.demon-tweeks.com/demon-tweeks-metric-hi-temp-aerospace-locknut-k-nut-243561
     
  12. As above.

    When I got my decat / turbo fitted I replaced all of the studs / nuts and used binx locking nuts on the turbo, and copper nuts for where it joins the exhaust.
     
  13. Thanks for the replies gents.
     
    RSPhil likes this.
  14. Right, bolts fell out again at Thruxton so the exhaust is coming off and all the bolts & nuts are being replaced. They're M8 apparently.

    I think I've settled on these nuts:

    https://www.demon-tweeks.com/demon-tweeks-metric-hi-temp-aerospace-locknut-k-nut-243561/

    I'm looking for locking washers that will work with them. Nord lock make some but I can't find anywhere to buy them in the UK - I need the alloy 718 ones to cope with the temperature.

    Any other suggestions for locking washers that will work at 400 degrees?
     
  15. Steve, one of the posters above said they can get the washers.
     
  16. So he did, thanks Chris!
     
  17. You think studs rather than bolts?
     
  18. I prefer studs but it all depends on whether you can get the downpipe on with studs fitted

    Do you have a picture of the standard fixing ?
     
  19. In the top post there's a photo of the standard fixing missing the bits that actually fix it.
     
  20. Just wondering what the bolt is like, does it protrude through the threaded hole ?

    If it does can you fit a k nut on the exposed thread to act as a locknut ?

    Or

    You could drill the bolt heads and lockwire them together
     
  21. Oh, I didn't know it was a threaded hole.

    I lost my 8mm socket taking the heatshield off to have another look at it, I'll get another one tomorrow and try again.
     
  22. I'm assuming the turbo side is threaded that's why I was asking about the standard fixing arrangement
     
  23. Looks like you're right. Here's a pic.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. So of the 2 in the picture one is blind so adding a locknut isn't possible, the one that passes through I'm not sure you'd get a locknut on

    If it were me I'd probably drill the standard fixing heads and lockwire them or use the stage 8 fixings I suggested earlier
     
  25. You're right, you won't get a nut on the other one. Thanks very much for your help.
     

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