this is the F9Q (1.9dCI engine , etc) that will fit to F4R engine block. some engine versions / oil pans will need a minor mod to the oil pan. (I also think the oil pan is interchangeable , I have an 1.9dCI Meg, someday I will test this also) part number is: 150108716R here are the pumps side by side. the volume of the "diesel" version is obvious. just observe at the oil chambers , pickup tube , gear wheel etc.
I fitted one to the silver car i forged (i also have one ready to go into my car) when i was building the engine, before the crank went in and also that the front main bearing cap was still not fitted. The pump complete was bolted to the block but not torqued, just enough to stop it moving. I then put the sump on and it sat flat, i secured the sump with a couple of bolts, there is enough room to get your hand in through the front to feel how much clearance there was between the pump and the webs, this one didn't need any cutting.
You might have to trim a bit off of the webs in the sump, i didn't have to on the 265 engine i forged, but someone else had to
Any further update on pressures with this pump? Keen to get this into my next build if its worth doing!
Sorry for spoilering, but nobody needs a bigger oil pump. Every oil pump makes much more pressure as any engine needs and has to be bypassed before the filter is prone to collapse. The principle of an gear pump is that it provides pressure in proportion to the revolution it does. 1000 revs with 10 L/min means 2000 revs with 20 L/min and 6000 rpm with 3 times, 60 L. Even a turbocharged Megane engine will never need 60 L/min, so the bypass has to limit the flow even at let say 4000 rpm to avoid oil pressures too big. The bypassed oil is very hot and very frothy and is bypasses directly back to the entrance of the pump, and exactly this frothy oil will be sucked again whats very critical. This conditions are very dangerous considering cavitation issues because of imploding steam bubbles and should definitly to be avoided. If you encrease the capacity of your oil pump, these conditions will be more critical than before. Big upgrade pumps are most likely to make money, not to improve you engine. More oil pressure doesn´t improve the lubrication of your engine, the load capacity of your bearings is determined by the bearing itself, correct clearance, it builds up it´s internal pressure way more than the oil pressure tells you. The only reason of the big oil pump capacity is to provide an sufficient oil pressure when the engine is hot idling. Now the oil pump speed is very low and the pressure might be too low if the pump ist too small. But at higher revs, 99% of all pumps are too big and has to be bypassed to limit the theoretical possible pressure. I´m currently building a racing engine for my classic Alpine A 110 and I use the Megane oil pump but - i made it much smaller, i reduced the gear width from 21,5 to 15 mm to avoid the problems I just talked about. I would reduce it even to 13 mm, but then the contact area of the shrinked shaft will be to small and might slip. I do race engine developments since 40 years - leave your oil pump in stock condition. If there are really issues what are strange - first look for them. My advice ! Udo
as you know an oil pumps moves volume , not pressure. the pump in question is an F9Q diesel pump. this pump must be used with the high flow diesel oil filter that has the relief valve calibrated for it and the inlet holes too. also the bigger pump is needed for an external oil cooler.
