250 Code P2615 + sharp full-throttle cut. Anyone had this?

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by hsustyle, Sep 8, 2026.

  1. Megane 3 RS250 – P2615 + sharp full-throttle cut. Anyone had this?

    Looking for some advice from anyone who has had something similar on a Mk3 RS250.

    The car is an RS250 on around 91k miles.

    Current setup:

    • Engine Dynamics remap, around 315 bhp
    • Airtec intercooler
    • Pure Motorsport sports cat
    • Properfekt recirc valve
    • Original turbo
    • Original actuator
    • Genuine Renault N75 around 3 years old
    • Spark plugs around 3 years old
    • Coils around 3 years old
    • Genuine injectors around 3 years old
    The main issue only shows under full throttle in Sport mode.

    For example, if I go full throttle from low revs in 2nd, it pulls completely cleanly and strongly all the way to the limiter. I change into 3rd, go straight back to full throttle, it pulls hard for about a second and then gives one very sharp/violent cut, almost like the power has been switched off for a split second, then immediately carries on normally.

    It isn’t a repeated misfire or hesitation and it doesn’t break up through the rev range. It is one single abrupt cut.

    The car has also brought up:

    • EML
    • Spanner light
    • “Check Anti-Pollution System”
    • P2615 – Camshaft Position Signal Output Circuit Low
    The P2615 keeps coming back/persists when scanned.

    A new genuine Renault camshaft position sensor and new genuine Renault crankshaft sensor have now both been fitted and have made no difference.

    Recent work carried out by a local Renault specialist:

    • Cambelt
    • Dephaser/VVT pulley
    • Water pump
    • Aux belt
    • AC compressor
    The timing has since been rechecked and they have confirmed that the mechanical timing is correct and the VVT/dephaser sprocket is properly locked.

    Just for context, I actually owned the car previously and bought it back last month. When I collected it, the AC pump/pulley was making a lot of noise, so I drove it home very gently and avoided high revs/full throttle. Because of that, I genuinely don’t know whether this fault was already there before the recent work or only appeared afterwards.

    The car otherwise:

    • Starts perfectly
    • No long cranking
    • Idles normally
    • Drives normally under light/moderate load
    • Pulls strongly through a complete gear
    • No repeated misfire
    The oil was also changed by a Renault dealer less than 1,000 miles ago, but it already looks very dark/dirty. Castrol RN 5W40

    At this point I’m wondering about:

    • Cam sensor wiring/connector
    • Loom between cam sensor and ECU
    • VVT solenoid
    • Shared power supply/fuse issue
    • ECU-side wiring/input
    • Cam/crank correlation under load
    • Or whether the P2615 and the full-throttle cut are actually two separate faults
    Has anyone had P2615 specifically on a Mk3 RS, especially with a sharp cut under full load?

    Interested in confirmed fixes, not just guesses. If you had the same or very similar issue, what actually cured it?
     

  2. Funnily enough, I’ve actually had a similar thing happen to me.
    I just had the timing done as well as water pump and dephaser, and on the drive home, I got the ELM and “check anti pollution system”. Car drives completely fine. No noticeable loss of power when I boot it, the only thing being a slightly lumpy idle (although I’ve just had a vibratechnics dogbone mount put in, so it’s unclear if I’m being paranoid and it’s nothing to worry about or if it’s actually a symptom).

    After returning to the garage, about 3 months of testing everything (including getting a brand new VVT Solenoid), we basically had nothing. My garage called up Beaniesport and they mentioned they had one meg like this previously and turned out to be a faulty ECU.

    Im certainly not one to jump to conclusions, however after being assured that basically everything else it could be has been checked, it’s now believed to be the ECU. We tried sending it off and getting it repaired, however for some reason they couldn’t read it…

    I’m now in discussion with Chris from EFI about getting a replacement cloned, to see if that fixes the issue.

    its uncommon for this to happen on 250s, as unlike the 265 and 275, it’s got a cooling duct that keeps it chilly.

    I know you’re looking for confirmed repairs, but since we’re in the same boat it could be helpful to consider it might be ECU related. These cars are getting old now and it’s starting to become more common.

    if there’s anything you hear that could be a fix, send us an update. Hope you manage to get it sorted quicker than I am currently
     

  • Share This Page