I wasn't going to have any modding done to my R26 but the temptation is far greater then expected so what is the best mod to do ? My Meg has a ktec remap running about 243bhp but what would be better to do first and what gains would I expect ? ? Best make ? Power gains ? Intercooler ? Exhaust ? Injectors ? Airflter ?
I bought the car off KTR sales and they said it had a mild map. I know RStuning seem to be the key tuners regarding the renaults sports. A new map will be sorted just wanted to know what else. With my other car it's been done in stages and I guess the meg will too. So remap plus full exhaust with free flowing cats + intercooler ? That's what I was thinking
This. 243bhp seems very low for a stage 1. Mine made 266bhp at RSTuning with just a PiperX filter and modded airbox. Edit: Nvm, just read the above post.
this was from my Audi before and after upgraded intercoolers would be over 500 with injectors. So just have better exhaust and remap ? What bhp would I roughly get ?
No need for exhaust. Did you read my guide ? Decat and standard is fine for your needs. The car never gained 25bhp , it just lost them with a poor previous intercooler . Trust me , coolers dont gain power.
Different cars respond to different mods Andy! Ive seen several cars respond well to mods that offer nothing on the Megane with its wank outdated engine. IE Coolers like the OP has mentioned.
I am going to have to disagree on this one buddy. Its a bit like injectors , they dont GIVE you more power , they allow you to fuel more. The cooler is the same , it never gains you anything , it just allows you to run more boost as the air is cooler therefore giving you power. The turbo effectively raises the power , or runs less hot.
Andy, ideally should I of had another custom remap to suit my intercooler - its the only mod fitted since it was live mapped?
Depends what you are going to do with the car.... First thing has gotta be the brakes..upgrade to braided lines and decent fluid 5dot0 or 5dot1, discs and pads if you need them.. Tyres are next..... only then think power.. these cars are about the handling and carrying speed NOT about "point and squirt" driving.. generally IMO save up and go for a modified air-box, re-map and exhaust (I like a de-cat) then you have about 290bhp / 300 ft/lbs. If you can really drive the car at that point then you are into track days and coil-overs. Whatever you do good luck and there are lots of modified cars out there..... just think long and hard before spending the money of just what you want....a track weapon is very different to a good road car. Hope this helps Cheers
Dot 5 fluid is silicon based, that will eat away the seals in the braking system so you don't want that, either a good dot4 fluid or 5.1 should be used.
Correct! My error. Should read quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (DOT 5 is purple in colour, silicon based, and is used for classic and some military vehicles and NOT for use in a vehicle with ABS) Sorry for mis-information!!
So as anyone come up with a best mod for him.. I'd do air box mod and panel filter Full turbo back system and remap.. If it's performance side ya need..
No need for exhaust system. He wont be limited by it till > 300bhp Tyres. Stickier the better ( PS2 / PSS / R888 ) Pads ( DS2500 for fast road / track or 1.11 for hardcore track ) Intercooler Remap.
Thread resurrection, sorry Andy. I don't know how the Sagem ECU and its mapping works but years ago when I was into turbo SAABs an intercooler upgrade was the easy path to big gains. The Bosch LH system seemed to be pretty much independent of the electronic boost control system on that car (APC something which SAAB invented). The pressure sensor read off the manifold but the intercooler on 900s was so rubbish that inlet air temps would be 70 to 90 C easy, the boost control only read boost not temp etc. etc. Going to a better IC such as one of a 9000 aero or 5 pot Volvo dropped the inlet temp right down such that for the same manifold boost reading the cars breathed a lot more air, simple application of the ideal gas law PV = nRT. This took them from 175 to around 215 to 230 Bhp with no other changes as the ECU on that car just supplied the fuel needed to compensate. Different times though I doubt anyone makes intercoolers that thermodynamically inefficient these days and on the Meg we are all looking at things like ICs to provide enough charge cooling to allow us to run at higher states of tune not the other way round.
just what andy and r26 man have said.. I have been around the R26 since 2007,and have read hundreds of these type of threads. These are my opinions,and what I have done personally after years of research. To make the R26 into a car that can cover ground as quick as almost anything out there, on our typical crap british roads,go for.. fluid flush,carbotechpads,new disks if worn...makes the brakes amazingly powerfull..carbotech are very expensive,but many racers use the xp8 compound on here..they are also fabulous on the road. As expensive tyre as you can afford..PSS epic(in 225 size). On site RS Tuning remap..my own car made 265hp/285lbft witn NO mods...more than ample and balanced to the cars abilitys I believe. My shortshift(if you can get one second hand)or ktecs version which is a direct copy of mine..again pricey..but so worth it,to sort out the meganes rubbery shift. These mods work so well on my own car..remap been on there 6 years...just like a factory map. On the right road,in the right conditions,a R26 is still a joy to drive point to point..and the reason I still have mine.
Yes,very similar to tuning escorts turbos in the 80/90s. The stock intercooler on the escort rs turbo was laughable. Several high end engineering companys like power engineering made quality larger intercoolers that would make big gains on there own. I have seen a lot of comparison data on meganes with different intercoolers compared to standard,and have never seen a significant power gain. Just as andybond said,its more a object exercise of minimizing power loss as the hp and temps increased. Interestingly,i have also seen data,that if a intercooler is to big on the megane, power is actually lost?
I looked at the facebook thread Paul posted with those results, it seems pretty clear that the Airtec IC that they tested must have had a very restrictive airflow thus making the turbo work to hard and hence showing lower power on the dyno. The boost and temperature numbers are a bit of a red herring in and of themselves as anyone able to apply the ideal gas law to these small differences can verify that the pressure drop is proportional to the temperature drop. BTW when I used a 9000 aero IC on my 900T16S years ago we did a lot of trial and error on the hardpipes. In the end I used pipework which looked too small but everything else made the car really laggy, none of this stuff is as easy as people think.
If it was easy, manufacturers would just bung a bigger intercooleror air filter or exhaust on when looking for more power to keep up with rising BHP figures in modern cars ,instead of spending the millions they do ,in trying to liberate as little as 5HP,as in for example,the 225 to the r26.
Doesn't stop the tuning scene from thinking in terms of the same stuff all the time though. A lot of people including on here seem to think its OK to run their cars in an illegal state with no Catalytic converter. Calling it a race/track type mod just shows how little so much of this scene knows as the MSA blue book is clear on this subject at section J rule 5.16.7 for production based cars manufactured after 31/12/99 they have to have it.
Does seem bizarre that people would go to all that hassle at MOT time for a few more BHP. My money goes on making the car go round corners..each to there own. Does make you wonder where you stand if your vehicle was pulled over, and a cat was found not to be in place.
VOSA would have to pull it over to do this. The standard Police dont have the equipment to server you with a notice for it. You will then be requested to get a new MOT within 7 days.
Whilst true Andy its not so much my point, my race car continues to be insured for road use with REIS on their competition cars scheme typically used for rally cars which have to be driven on the road sometimes between stages. REIS know the full spec of that car it cost me £260 PA which includes fully comp cover on 4 track days then additional days at half their normal price (0.5% of value rather that 1% of insured value) which is why I continue to insure the car this way. I haven't driven that car on the road in 4 years but it went through 2 MoTs as a race car, lots of myths around this subject you don't even need headlights as we run those cars without the heavy pop ups, MoT stations that know the rules properly will mark it down as daytime running only. No 3 point belts either only the 6 point race harness. This is the rub really, one can be pretty extreme with the level of modification done on car and still be perfectly OK either MoT time or with their insurers.
VOSA are not interested in pulling the odd car over , no money to be made. they concentrate all the time on LGV , van's and any one towing trailers or caravans that look to be over weight. As for the police when was the last time you saw a marked or unmarked traffic car about ?. This is one of the main reasons that their is so much bad driving about. ..
Don't get me started on trailers, loads of advice out there saying VOSA will pull you if the plated max weight on the trailer is above the towing capacity of the tow car e.g. a christmas tree on a commercial car transporter trailer being towed by a normal car would be illegal.
