So looked at getting one before but never took the plunge. Looking to use on my own car, not much correction needed but hope to make life easier and get a better finish. Plus if needed would want something i could use on mates cars possibly in the future. Like the idea/safety of DA machines so looking at Das-6 pro plus, Das -21e or flex xc 3401 vrg. What do people think ? Cheers Paul
If you want to go DA then any of the above. Rotaries are far more effective and generally cheaper. Why not buy one and a practice scrap panel? Better end result, cheaper etc.
I ended going down the rotary route and tbh i'm glad i didn't listen to the scaremongering about them, as you say there far more effective/ powerful and much cheaper. IMO you'd have to be quite a numpty to burn through the clearcoat or wreck a panel even if your a complete novice
Hear hear. Although I am having issues with hologramming on my black Megane. Just need to let the finishing compound break down further.
Black is meant to be the worst colour for showing up holograms etc, I take it you've looked over on detailing world with their guides? The zenith plateau technique is quite handy, i tend to use that method, although my car is silver so doesn't show as many imperfections as black!
Yes a while ago liquidf1 Ed did suggest going down the rotary path, call me a coward but they worry me!
Out of the three your looking at Paul the Flex would be my pick but the das21 and das 6 pro all have their places. The das21 will fix you to a large pad so then what will you use for the smaller stuff? The das 6 pro has different size backings but takes longer to get the correction, plus points are though it's safe to use and also a great easy to use tool. The flex is a powerful thing and can really correct very very close to a rotary but does pull and drag slightly if your not used to a polisher like a rotary. The lake country adaptor plates mean you can use a 4'' pad which with the throw is usually perfect for most cars. You wouldn't have to be a numpty to burn through the clear it's all relevant to how much is on the car your working on at the time.
I'm looking at getting the Flex apparently an awesome bit of kit for a non rotary. As Ed said near rotary results but a safer machine and a range of pad sizes.
It's worth keeping an eye on heat with the flex, as it's forced rotation it will still work with alot of pressure so will build heat much much quicker than something like a das6 so when working always place a hand on the surface whilst polishing to make sure it's staying cool. I see alot of people say you need heat to help correct, that's simply not true it's the polish cutting the heat is a result of the polish and pad spinning into the paint not something which actually helps.
I've just bought a DAS-21E http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/das-21e-dual-action-polisher/prod_1391.html Very happy with it, much nicer to use than the DAS-6 I already had, now on offer for just £119.95, thread I started in this section here: http://www.rsmegane.com/showthread.php?6019-So-I-bought-myself-a-new-DA
How would use a machine, any of them, on say the rear of the front wheel arch on the mk3? Or would you not? How about the front black bumper?
Rotar polishers are pretty safe unless you are being a complete berk. GTechniq did a demonstration video on how hard you have to try before you burn through the clear coat. And they kept the machine on full whack in the same spot for a minute before it burned through the edge of the panel. das 6 pro is a well recommended one, ive just bought one altho not had chance to use it yet so can't give my input on how it is. it's good value tho. The promo code DAS6GROUPBUY still works in clean your car which gets you £15 off. If you decide to go for it.
As previously stated that's fine if you know the condition and depth of the clear (which they would of) but it's a much steeper learning curve with the rotary. There's so much more to using a rotary than a da in terms of damage that for someone looking to do afew cars etc the new breed of da's is perfect.
smaller backing plates/pads. I managed fine with my DAS-6 a year or two back when i done the Megane. Ill be getting one of the newer larger throws of DA soon though, Purely to speed up the process
As Jamie says, smaller backing plate and spot pads work well for this. I was actually going to sell my DAS-6 now I've got the new DAS21-E, but seeing as I already have smaller backing plate and spot pads, thought I'd keep as it is useful for doing the smaller areas, just yesterday I used it to do my front and rear lights, this is the only pic I have showing the size of the spot pad...
Are you masking there to stop whatever you're using on the headlight going on the paintwork or to protect the edge of the bodywork, maybe even both? Just thinking about the edge on the rear of the front wheel arch that stick out, would you mask that just to protect it when doing the bodywork next to it? Thanks
A bit of both, I've recently machine polished the bonnet so didn't want to go over that, I also tried the CarPro Ceri glass on the headlights so wanted to keep that away from the bodywork. I've only ever taped up the plastic trim parts and window rubbers etc. when doing mine, I didn't bother with the arches etc. seems fine, you'd really need to go some to damage the paint with a DA.
Andy, How did you find the Ceriglass on the headlights? Got some for my glass and did think about trying it on the lights but didn't chance it
To be honest mate, I was a little disappointed, but I did only have a very quick go with it, I need to have another proper go and probably work it harder and for longer as doing by hand...
