225 Anyone have timing tools??

If you have no luvk borrowing a kit, they can be had off ebay cheap. £22-£37 odd. It's a pin and a horseshoe, a Renault badge on the tool will make no difference.

 

I've got a genuine updated kit. PM me bud.

 

Any one on here know this car black 225 BG07XDA trying to get service history

 

Even the genuine cam locking tool will bend if you try to remove a dephader pulley without the correct locking tool. The horse shoe is to time the cams up only and not to lock the cams off.

Besides the point anyway as the 225 doesn't have a dephaser so you shouldn't have any need to remove the cam pulleys for a cambelt or timing check.

I have both the genuine renault tools and a cheap Sealey timing set and both work as well as eachother.

 

I assume the f4r and f4rt timing tools are the same?

 

I have the sealey tools ive used plenty of times including the belt on your car at the minute and ive never had a problem using them. You are more than welcome to borrow them i wont need them for a few weeks until my pistons turn up.

 

Yep same kit across the range, except the IDE.

As Ben said not designed to lock the cams, just timing setup. Nip the cam pulleys then remove horse shoe to torque up nuts. You risk busting the cams if you don't!!

I don't get then panic I read on forums reguarding belts on these, simple job any competant mechanic can do. Easier than the 1.6 16v that runs a dephaser pulley and I can do those in 1.5 hours. Only awkward bit on the 225 belt is 1 bolt on the lower timing belt cover that has a heat shield.

 

Most the confusion comes from the floating pulleys and equalizing the tension by free spinning them etc. other than that it's a basic belt job.

 

Not entirely true, there is a HUGE difference between the genuine and non-genuine tools... Actual LOLZ at the Renault stamp comment.

Firstly, genuine tools don't have any branding on them. Secondly, they aren't made from a mild steel like the cheaper tools (This is why they bend when the cams try to brace against the boss). Thirdly, and probably the most important difference, is the thickness of the setting bar itself. The genuine tool is a precision fit into the notch, unlike the Laser, Sealey, AST, Berghen items you find on eBay.

Why is this important? Well, when you lock the pulleys (there is a separate tool for that which is also needed) and apply load to the fixing, a torsional effect takes places traveling thru the assembly. This causes the camshaft to try to rotate/advance its position. Normally it is held firmly in place by a high tensile, precision made tool but this isn't the case with the difference in tolerances from the non-genuine tools. Immediately you've introduced a degree or two of inaccuracies on both camshafts before you've even started.

Thankfully you have Turbos so the minor deviation from timing spec won't make a huge difference in power loss, unlike on the X65/X85.

I don't do scaremongering and you use the tools you like when doing your own work. When people pay us to do a job though we do it to the best of our ability every time. I can pretty much promise jobs done on cheap tools will be highlighted as incorrect when checked with genuine tools.

 

You can't do that on a Megane RS Ben as the bottom sprocket has a keyway

 

Thank god I never tried to do a meg belt I would have been like why the fuck is that pulley not spinning lol! Breaker bar time