Does anyone know if having a low/injured battery could cause the radiator fan to stay on and not turn off even with the ignition? I could have sworn I've heard this somewhere.. Anyone else not been able to turn their rad fan off?
Yeah, defo the radiator fan. I went to start it this morning to get the steering lock off it flashed 'Bat Low' (didn't start) and then the fan came on and it won't stop. Everything is off, car could lock etc but fan still goes
This happened to mine when one of the thin neutral cables going to the battery got disconnected when I was putting it back together after having the battery and airbox out. Worth checking everything's secure first. if it's not that Ive no idea lol sorry
I have this problem at the moment with my R26. Renault have had it for a week trying to fix the problem so i'll let you know once it's resolved.
Oh dear! That doesn't sound very promising! Seen some others saying it was a temp sensor, that would make sense I suppose...sensor could be reading wrong with the battery being so low or knackered completely.. I've got Andy at ED taking a look before the engine comes out so I'll post here if he beats Renault to it.
Fan running and low battery message on the dsahboard means that your ECU is not working for various reasons. First things I would check is the ground lead under the plastic fuse box in front of the battery. It has a stupid nut that goes loose. Try that first and report. S.
Did you get anywhere with this? I'm having similar problems with my 175DCi. I've recently had the motor out to replace the gearbox, so that rules which wire it could be down to ALL OF THEM! The other day I did have it going fine except for the power steering taking a second or two to start working (which initially I didn't think anything of), the front indicator not working and a slight coolant leak. Solved the indicator by cleaning the white connector block from the front of car wiring loom. Also had to take ECU off again to fix coolant leak from turbo. Now I've put it back together again I'm getting 'low battery', 'select neutral' notices on dash and not even trying to start and then fan stays on. The time or two it has started it initially didn't hold a steady idle, then settled down then cut out after 10 seconds :mad: I've taken the fusebox next to the battery apart and all seems fine. I'm a bit stuck what to try next. The battery seems fine with 12.6V. I'm pretty sure it is French electrics thwarting me, which a next to impossible to diagnose over the web - but here's hoping!
Also saying on dash 'steering lock not on' (or words to that effect). And I have a spanner light which code reader says is for throttle actuator, but pretty sure this is unrelated as it was on before I even started taking engines out - I had it reset with a Snap on diagnosis machine, and it didn't come back on for a couple of months, but did do a few weeks ago. It is on my list of things to fix!
Bit more dismantling reveals some d**khead (me) tried cleaning the connector blocks with carb cleaner which may have ruined the circuit board on the back of the fuse board Rather annoyed I didn't spend longer searching for the contact cleaner - grrr. At least I have a real suspect for my problems...
I've replaced the engine bay fusebox with a brand new one (exact replacement part number), but still "select neutral" and "low battery" and no start, then the fans come on. It's so frustrating :mad: Any thoughts?
I didn't think the fusebox needed programming to the car? It is exact same part number. I've checked all earths as best I can. I shall have another look at passenger fuses. Thanks for your ideas. I'm very temped to buy a Clip code reader to see if this can narrow down where to search and have also emailed a local auto electrician.
Solved the problem! It was a broken yellow wire on the loom that heads into the car and connects to the top plug of the ecu (amongst other places) - soldered that back up and all is fine. It seemed this wire controlled the drivers side headlight and all the engine functions. I didn't need the UPC fusebox, but for reference it does need programming what alternator is in the car and you can tell it the VIN number - although I don't think there are any consequences to having a different VIN programmed in - and I'm not sure of the consequence of the wrong alternator programmed in. Either way i do have a spare brand new fusebox which I shall keep for a few weeks to make sure it all works then put it on ebay.
