Removing Airbox (250)

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by joshster321, Jan 4, 2015.

  1. Right I've had the filter out and its no good, I've got a cone laying about and like the noise of the recirc valve, I've got the battery out, and now i take it i have to take the casing that the battery sits in out? seems a bit of a ballache looking at how its fastened.
    Is there any other way?
     
  2. No. I have the k-tec fitting instructions for fitting the induction kit if you want them.
     
  3. If its the same as my old r26

    - battery out
    - battery tray out (3 easy bolts)
    - unplug ecu and undo bolt holding it to the bat tray
    - removed battery tray (just a bit of wiggling)
    - undo intake pipe to airbox
    - tug airbox towards you, its not bolted in
     
  4. If you have them on your computer that would be good thanks Nath, if not i should be alright with the instructions I've got so far (Cheers MattyW) just seems a bit much compared to other cars I've had.

    Also, if i do end up unplugging the ECU will that have and problems? or just plug back in and off you pop?
     
  5. PM me your email address and I'll send them to you. I removed battery, ecu etc and had no problems after.
     
  6. honestly it takes 5mins and no just plug in and go

    just your windows may need resetting (hold them up for 10 secs) and your radio code may be required
     
  7. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    No radio code needed on the Mk3
     
  8. I'm all sorted now thanks guys, what a ballache .
     
  9. Looks good

    where you get that from is it loud
     
  10. I got the cone from halfords, only £19.99, get some nice psshhhhhh noises and a slightly louder engine tone, i like it :smile:
     
  11. What other parts do you need as I might have a go
     
  12. Thats all you need, if you just take the jubilee clip off to the left hand side of the airbox, and give it a rev you will get the sound.

    then its just a case of taking all the stuff in the way out. (battery, battery casing, and undoing a few clips)

    then push the cone on with a couple of jubilees, and put the casing back in and the battery, jobs a good un.

    You will probably want a decent socket set with good t-bar and extensions though as some of the bolts are deep and hard to get at without.
     
  13. Cheers josh might have to give it a whirl even though im not mechanical minded will probably dismantle engine :wink:
     
  14. its the biggest job I've ever done to a car and i thought it could of been harder to be honest, just go steady and methodically, once the battery is out its just a case of 3-4 bolts and gentle wriggling it about and you may need to just unscrew anything attached to it, where about in Yorkshire are you?
     
  15. Im in hull josh was going to get the ktec one but you just done that for £20 a no brainer really
     
  16. ah I'm at Pocklington, heres a video with the cone on.
    [video=youtube;jsTAHF-69P4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsTAHF-69P4&list=UUAPlxR4y6XaeWAWdNF3Bi1Q&spfreload=10[/video]
     
  17. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    I would get a decent quality filter instead of that halfords shite, Have seen them break up very easy and get invested but hey its your engine.
     
  18. Does sound nice though.
     
  19. Its not ideal i know, i was looking for a nice K&N one, but i think once i get a bit more coin after payday may invest in a better one. must say though the do feel strong like it would hold up.
     
  20. What size filter would fit in
    thought about a focus rs group a filter
     
  21. youd get a pretty big cone in there when you imagine how big the airbox is.
     
  22. Does the diameter size matter that connects to the hose
     
  23. 70mm ram air, £20 off ebay, job done.
     
  24. theres plenty of ways to sort that problem when it comes to it IMO, in the past ive used drainpipe, tape, 2 jubilees, or you can just buy rubber connectors off ebay that will make it larger or smaller to connect any filter. But the above is correct 70mm.
     
  25. sadley although aesthetically pleasing this filter location if flawed regarding power increase. the under bonnet heat will easily overwhelm any cold air passing towards the filter. the cone should be boxed off from engine heat as was the OEM filter.
     
  26. Completely agree. Heat soak will be sky high without a cold air feed and separation. I'm sure it sounds nice but it's a risk.
     
  27. That video is bollocks, the first run on both standard and without was lower than there second run, then only did one run with the cone, which was the cheapest cone filter ive ever seen, and that run was 2kw better than the standard airboxes 1st run.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  28. No it's not, its complete bollox.

    Where did they ever find a such a low powered skyline.

    Give it some proper boost and test again.
     
  29. Dont get me wrong, open coned filters aint the be all, you need mapping to get the best out of them, like any other mod.
     
  30. Yeah but what a surprise the standard airbox works fine on a pretty much standard car.
     
  31. Completely agree James. Even the 'Ram' air had to be stuck on the front of the car to see a 1.5% increase! Not worth the bother. Changing panel filters, I can agree with though but even that has consequences as you are always balancing Flow against Filtration.
     
  32. Heres another one from these two dicks.

    Like the way they put the cold air scoop back on for the standard airbox run.


    Do they say these filters may be beneficial in this video?

    Mighty Car Mods - POD Filters Mythbusted: http://youtu.be/PAIxeQUSg-Q
     
  33. Looks like everyone's going to be painting there ic black then
     
  34. It has the benefit of being a bit more subtle too:

    [​IMG]
     

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