R26 R26 Stage1 or Stage2 - What can a standard engine Handle????

300 ftlbs is generally considered the safe ceiling for torque.
Rest of the spec sounds good to me. You might wanna chuck some cooksport springs in your shopping list though.

 

Forge actuator would also be good if your going stage 2 holds boost longer higher in the rev range, for the remap use Rs Tuning ,theres is the best remap , everything else sounds ok, maybe a homemade ITG induction kit would go down well too and some brackets for the boost sensors there only cheap or you can make they yourself

 

As others have said,keep the torque around the £300lb/ft..as most believe the torque is the culprit on failures ,due to the weak nature of the conrods
.
Rs tuning are the most widely acknowledged to have the most experience in tuning renaultsports..i drove to leeds to have my stage 1 years ago achieving 265hp/285lb/ft...No issues with this,and the map is very progressive on its power delivery.

The itg set up is the only system that some believe gives any type of power gain..but will sound nicer.

Exhausts do little apart from lose the famous `sucking` induction noise, that is very evident when the car is tuned..and even more so with the rear seats down!

Brakes..standard disks or equivalent,with a full fluid flush and in my case ,Carbotech Xp8 brake pads...noisy and dusty,but if you are going to do track work,the braking performance is shockingly good.

The biggest difference you can do is put on the best tyres you can afford(which you have),and the shortshift to eliminate the horrible throw of the standard shift(on its way).

Then you will be pretty sorted.

 

I am going to counter argue a few things here. Just to be controversial


You dont need a forge actuator.
The exhaust whistle is produced only by the centre box.
just buy a Pipercross filter ( http://www.rstuning.co.uk/airfilter...xhall-astra-20t-piperx-cone-filter-p-268.html ) and bung it on the end of your intake. No need for fancy 90 degree bends.

but , other than that I generally agree.

The thing about the rods is interesting. I believe it isnt due to the limit of the rods , but more the lack of RPM to dissipate the torque at a lower rev range.

RS tuning are the only place I would take ( and have ) my meg to be mapped.

 

Mine made 281 bhp and 300lbft, with , stage 2 rs tuning remap,siemens 630cc injectors, 3" cat back exhaust,forge inter cooler,ITG homemade induction kit,forge acutator and diverter valve,boost sensor brackets, every little mod helps me get to this stage of tune ,so similar to what you are going to do if you go for stage 2 and the mods you mentioned

 

I was in the same boat but still needs to be a solid daily.
I have home made ITG, Chinese cooler, miltek decat, (back box chop for noise) and made 265bhp and 300ftlbs. Basic mods but a good set of tyres means more than 20 ponies so don't get too caught up with figures.
I can easily outrun friends with more power.

 

Max power is of little concern to me..The R26 is all about the handling...so the tyres and brakes and the way it steers need to be correct.
I recently had my car checked for tracking/alignment as it was getting a bit scrabbly at the front..i was quite shocked on how far the geometry was out,even though the car has never been kerbed etc.

Make a bit difference to my ability to cover ground..which is what the R26 is all about.

 

3" exhaust is usually the preferred option for best flow. as the standard system is 2.5" and the ceneter box is seen as the most restrictive part hence the whistle from the turbo. cheapest option is to chop the midbox and backbox out to help flow. but youd be best with a new system as it could help with that few more ponies. if you want a decat then make sure you have a backbox in place as it would sound stupid.

 

Cooksports are around the £200 mark and most people agree that they are epic.

I have them yes but are sat waiting for when I can be bothered to fit them.

Mods on my car are:
-Milltek cat back
-DIY induction kit
-Chinese intercooler
-Short shift
-Carbon bonnet
-Remap @RSTuning

Remap without the exhaust was 261bhp@285ftlb of torque.

 

I believe that is to do with the level of tune your car has. The standard system appears fine for upto 300 hp / 300ibft as many have done it.

 

I ran 285hp /300ibft on stock exhaust for reference ,and 313.5hp/320ibft with a different turbo and 3inch RS tuning exhaust

 

@andybond - what kind of turbo you get 313.5hp/320lbft?
I thinking to push of my meg around 300hp, but still confused between Megane III RS turbo and hybrid...

 

Has anyone got any rr printouts?

Would be nice to compare these not just peak figures.

 

Meg 250 turbo

Lots of differences between the 250 turbo and the "hybrid"

 

All my RR printouts are here

 

What kind of difference? Can you tell more and share your knowledge?
What about the fuel pump and actuator? Have you upgrade it or you still running OEM?

 

Turbine wheel is bigger and of different design. Rear housing is different too.

 

i was told by a renault tech the standard turbo is the restricting factor in the exhaust system,so a aftermarket exhaust will produce no more performance.

 

housings on 250 are exacly the same as on 225.difference is in compressor an exhaust wheels and 250 is using different actuator.

 

Rear housing is the same. Front same. Wheel is a 15t not 14t.

The acutator is different but a r26 actuator can be used. The recirc valve is also the same.

 

If the front and rear housings are the same, but the actuator and turbine are different, why wouldn't you just put a 15t chra in your standard turbo?

 

I found it cheaper to do it this way.

 

3" decat picked up 15hp on my mrs meg before proper mapping. A good exhaust system is well worth fitting if your planning on decent hp.

 

Really..never seen anything like that kind of gain.

 

Removed the std exhaust (291/310 @ 1.4 bar) and added the airbox mod and Blueflame exhaust made 315/340 so had it detuned to 297/310@1.1 bar.

 

Has to be a different turbo , therefore injectors. I guess a decat too. And FMIC.

 

basically you can get close to 300/300 with fmic,stage 2 tune and bigger injectors..you really dont need anything more on the road.

 

All depends on engine.

You do need more on the road. Always need more.

 

but why?..fwd with over 300 would be a torque steering ,camber grabbing nightmare..mine struggles on our typical rough roads with 265hp

 

Then there is something fundamentally wrong with your car.

I have had mine at 230 / 260 /270 / 285 / 313.5 hp

Never had any of the problems you are talking about

Drove the 452 hp one , was fine

 

Where are you based fella ?

 

are you really saying a 300hp fwd car is not going to torque steer and feedback through the steering on a average pot holed uk B road?