Just wondering what the service interval on these is, looked through my manual but doesn't really clarify anything!
The auxillary belt, bottom pulley, idler and tensioner need to be replaced at 6 years or 72k which ever is sooner. better sit down when you phone for a price on the kit.
Auxiliary/fan belt is cheap, the timing belt is the expensive one. No idea on the interval though, I'd possibly change it every 2 years.
There is no timing belt. Chain driven. The Aux kit is something like £130 in parts. No idea on fitting!
Gary I got a genuine auxillary belt kit from "Renault Parts Direct" (Fish Brothers) P/N R77 01 477 343 £136.39 + VAT really helpful guys. It was a bit of a bitch to fit as is any job on these, had to remove the engine mount and lower the engine to get the pulley off. As mentioned before 6 years or 72k.
I haven't mate no. Never seem to have the spare cash, something always pops up. I have an intermittant boost drop issue that needs sorting first, no idea what it is, it's like the turbo turns off for 3/4 seconds then kicks back in, can happen in any gear at any speed. No pattern at all, it's really got me scratching my head. Renault Clip brings nothing up either.
Looks like that's something else that'll be needing done this year then, plus tyres! Gavin if you find out what it is can you let me know, I have a similar issue which is intermittant like yours, some days fine others have a split second drop in power then comes back.
Might be worth a call to Paul at RS Tuning and have a chat to him about this issue, bet it would show up while the car was on the rollers..... I went to see him the other day for a stage 1 remap, my cars a f##king missile now.
My dci has a bit of a rpm drop sometimes on tickover and 1st gear. Ive just put it down to me having a open cone air filter and the warm weather weve been having. Runs totally fine when the weather is cooler. Ive had many diesel cars and vans and every one of them has suffered from lummpy running/ dropping boost from time to time. Ive always thought its down to the quality of fuel. Cheaper supermarket diesels have around 30% bio diesel in them. Give your car a service. Mainly the fuel filter. If you get the garage to do it make sure its been done. Its a bitch of a job right under the drivers wheelarch. Mine had supposedly been done before I bought the car but when I came to service the car myself I found it was very rusty and was a few years old. Then run it on the better fuels (higher cetane) from shell, bp, esso.
I did mine last week funnily enough and I have noticed a difference, the drop is still there but it's not as noticeable as it was. I may run it on vpower diesel for a few weeks and see if it still happens.
For the price difference which isn't that mush tbf, why not use vpower all the time? Group buy on remap?
In all honesty I don't know. I know my Local garage that I normal visit doesn't sell it, i'll have to travel a bit further out Was thinking that haha
It's good practise to use better diesel as it doesn't produce as much soot which is vital for preserving the DPF. I was going to go for a stage 2 remap but could be bothered with the hastle ( MOT) of removing the DPF. So I went for stage 1. My car made 169 HP 278 lbft standard. After remap 202 HP 325lbft. The torque was higher at first but Paul backed it off to preserve the DPF. The car drives so different now, it pulls like a train now in any gear ! And mpg is better :-)
I didnt realise you could get that amount of bhp with the dpf still in place. I thought they could only achive 190ish bhp.
I don't have any records of this being done on my car so at 79k I think I might need to do it for peace of mind. I've seen two part numbers - 7701476644 / 7701477343 and on Gates' website they also list two part numbers - K017PK1705 / KP17PK1705 - does anyone know how do identify which I need? Also - the workshop manual refers to how you must replace the belt, tensioning roller, fixed roller and crankshaft accessories pulley bolts (???) - ok. But during the instruction it then says you need to remove the crankshaft accessories pulley which seems like a lot more work - is this really correct?
Make sure you change the crank shaft pulley at the same time, I did my aux belt a few months ago, didn't realise the crankshaft pulley was meant to be done at the same time, sure enough, back in the garage last week to get the crankshaft pulley done. Makes a racket when it gives up the ghost!!
Main thing putting me off the crankshaft accessories pulley is how to lock it in place without the special tool.
