Megane won't start... very annoyed.... PLEASE HELP ME.

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by wass, Sep 1, 2014.

  1. Hi Guys,

    I really could appreciate some serious help here.

    I have spent over 35 hours trying to get my car started, not including last weekend 23/07/14. Grrhhhh....

    The problems started by me removing the battery and Inlet Manifold, before this the car was absolutely perfect. I was starting to convert the car to run on LPG and only managed to physically install the LPG injectors... no wiring or water works touched so far. All work was done with battery removed.

    Put car back to together and it went nuts, complaining about everything such as Battery low, steering fault, Ignition not locked, steering fault... head lights were flashing etc.

    So I thought I'd check everything over, no problems found. Tried another battery and same thing.

    CLIP diagnostic computer arrived.... hurray I thought... after spending a few hours installing it!

    CLIP complained about multiplexed network not found! [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    After 16 hours of messing around, cleaning earth cables, re earthing certain parts of the car I eventually came across one earth point which had broken off hiding away behind the passenger headlight. Must have knocked\pulled whilst removing battery as its part of the loom. That's now fixed.

    I have also checked every single fuse, other people mentioned the fuse box being wet and service cover off. Mine is bone dry and cover is on and also the foot well is dry. All fuses are fine and all contacts are like NEW, no corrosion or sign of water ingress.

    I connected the CLIP up again and guess what it found all the ECU's except the INJECTION ECU. It found faults in every ECU, so I cleared them all except the UPC fault would not clear.

    The UPC showing a fault with the alternator 1.DEF : Alternator mechanical or electrical fault.

    I whipped the alternator off last night and today had it tested by a Alternator specialist, he put it on a special bench kit with a computer and he said it was perfect. I initially thought it was this at fault as the CLIPS network diagram shows the UPC linking to the Injection unit and I was told the FANS kicking in usually lead you to a power fault or short circuit of some sort. I was hoping it was the alternator. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    So today I am stuck, I am thinking that some where I may have knocked the earth or power to the Injection ECU, this is the only thing which looks like it will stop it from firing but I can't figure out what I've done to knock it off.

    So the current symptoms are, You put the key in, keep hold of the clutch\brake, press start and nothing happens, the service light comes on followed by battery low. Radiator Fans come on full speed.

    I have 2 good batteries both above 12volts. One is a OPTIMA GEL battery. Clip shows 11.9volts but my volt meter show more, but that may be because the fans are drawing current. I have been putting them on trickle charge whilst not in use as obviously the fans will eventually drain them.

    Can you guys confirm to me the following please:
    1. Where the Injection ECU is, I'm sure its the one next to the battery.
    2. A diagram for the wiring to this ECU particularly the K-Line signal wire and the + posi & - negi
    3. All the earthling points on the car - I will renew them all for the sake of it.

    I have probably missed off loads of things I have already tested...

    I'm now thinking its a breakage from the UCH to the ECU. Found a post on internet which suggest to check the Orange wire from the Brown plug on UCH to the middle connector on the ECU.

    Any other ideas are welcome.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2014
  2. You sure you didnt short the ECU or UCH out when pissing about with the battery
     
  3. Very sure I haven't done that.

    I am quite anal when it comes to my car and working on it.
    I'm leaning towards the idea of a cracked wire or bad connection to ECU.

    I need to do a continuity test in the wiring loom but can't do nothing till Friday night as car is in Yorkshire.

    Could really do with wiring diagrams TBH.
     
  4. Its all CANBUS so the wiring diagram wont help much
     
  5. Do you have all your main feeds and earths to your UHC? Tested with a bulb test light and not multimeter?
    Also are all the fuses on battery testing ok, as a lot of people forget about them...

    Did you happen to check how many amps were in the batteries? (I'm sure there fine, but I regularly find voltage at 12v and amps at 0 when testing them)

    have be you installed a LPG kit yet or attached anything to the original Renault loom?
     
  6. how does this work? according to my physics book, that's not at all possible ;-)
     
  7. I'm after the pin outs on the Injection ECU and the UCH, would be very helpful to know so I can trace back cables when doing continuity tests on each cable.
     
  8. That book is telling you lies mate, I suggest never reading it again. Lol :wink:
    I connect a midtronics battery tester and it does the rest...
     
  9. Awesome that's a good start. Would be handy to have ecu names against the numbers.

    thanks though... Really appreciate that.
     
  10. What else to you need? I'll try to find it for you.
     
  11. Last edited: Sep 9, 2014
  12. Still not fixed... Please help

    STILL NOT FIXED. So annoyed right now.

    Bought a NEW UPC and still same problem.

    Can any one recommend a good electrican familiar with Renaults in the LEEDS area?
    Is it possible to swap my ECU from another Megane just in case it is faulty?
    Has any one got a spare ECU or willing to test mine in their car to rule it out?

    CURRENT SYMPTONS...
    CLIP reports Injection ECU not found>
    FRONT FANS KICK IN
    CAR DOES NOT ATTEMPT TO START
    BATTERY IS FINE
    NO OBVIOUS BREAKAGES IN WIRING
    NO CORROSION WHATSOEVER ANYWHERE
    EARTHS ARE ALL FINE
    POSI TERMINAL ALL SPOT WITH CORRECT WORKING FUSES
    NO WATER INGRESS ANYWHERE
    UCH moans about Alternator mechanical or electrical fault - If I disconnect the signal wire to alternator then it moans about Alternator type.

    I guess the clue is the fans kicking in, apparently this only happens when there is a short circuit or power issue, am I correct in thinking the UPC disables power to the component where the is a problem?

    Come one PEEPS, some one must know the mystery of this issue!

    I am leaning towards a new Wiring loom or ECU????

    Thanks inadvanced for your help.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2014
  13. With it being CANBUS its going to be hard to figure out. The smallest damage in the wiring loom would cause an issue. I'd take it to RS Tuning and let them get on with it.
     
  14. Doesnt the upc require coding to the rest of the car
     
  15. there was a car which had obvious damage to the loom over here in Australia - drill went through a whole bundle of wires. lots of shorts and nearly every computer replaced and loom, car was still throwing errors! Ended up being written off after $15k of parts and labour spent on it. This was a nearly new Meg 3 250.

    I know its quite dissimilar to your situation, but my point is if you have shorted anything, who knows whats gone wrong. take it to a pro, and pray.
     
  16. I'm not going to give up that easily lads.

    By the time I've finished everything will be renewed but then I will have also cured future problems.

    ryan197 UPC does not need reprogramming, it showed a different VIN in the RENAULT CLIP but worked fine and from other RENAULT forums peeps have said the same.

    I've now got a spare UPC!

    Can someone confirm if swapping the ECU needs reprogramming?

    It is most likely a little pezy wire broken somewhere!

    So annoying!
     
  17. Sorry for the late reply, I FIXED IT a few weeks ago and not had chance to repost.

    ONE flipping pink/green wire was cut on the ecu harness.
    It didn't look obvious but on closer inspection it was broke. Soldered back together and now all perfect.

    WOW... after all that diagnostics and it was something so silly and small.

    Battery is in the boot now and it runs flawlessly!!

    Airbox sound has improved too and much better air flow to it.

    I guess all the work I have done has only prevented a future fault :tongueout:

    I have a spare UCH if any one needs it.

    I would like to THANK everyone for there input.
     
  18. well done! I had my own 'snipped wire' issue whilst installing speakers. Turns out there are two identical orange wires going into the drivers door. one is the speaker wire, the other is the central locking! I really thought that all wire colours would be unique!
     
  19. I had this exact same problem. Seems it's a very common problem. But once you read about the solution. It's a very simple fix.

    I wish I'd seen this thread week's ago and I could of helped you straight away
     
  20. Hey there I see you had solved the start issue of ur meggy but I'm stuck with the same issue car standing for 2months now and I'm hopeless to say the least the nearest renault dealer s about 400km away from me. I also bought a UCH put it in and car still won't start auto elect tested everything from keyfob wires,all fuses even removed started thinking solenoid ha played up but no luck, car switches on/off with card but it just doesn't start will get a guy with an obd reader tomorrow for codes buy I'm really done
     

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